Having never had to buy one before... I have always just used what was there.... I am not really sure what to look for.

What I KNOW I want...
Big Cutting Deck, Descent turning Radius (zero turn NOT needed), Traction, Reliability, a head light and a cup holder.
I have a 2.5 acre fenced yard.. So I want to be able to trim as close to that fence as possible.. Ideally I would buy a Lawn Tractor with a PTO.. But they are a bit pricey.. Especially considering IF I do a garden, I would be able to do it with a tiller..

So where should I begin?

Craigslist

I have seen some really good deals. Mostly due to economy being in the dump. I have a large craftsman but it has the turning radius of a bus. But it has enough power to pull my car parts car around the yard when I need to move it. I got it from some friends because I know it was taken care of so I am happy, but I missed out on a new rider on craigslist a few days later.

Craigs list is a good place to start. Good brands are Simplicity, Husqvarna, those I have had and lasted years and years. They were bullet proof as far as I am concerned. Hydrostatic drive is nice if you don’t like shifting.

Just what I know about them that I have had, stay away from Wal Mart brands or super store brands.

Steve

------------------
Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't.

Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

2.5 Acre. You really should move up to a commercial grade mower/tractor. Especially if you want to be able to add power attachments.
I've got 1 acre and now use a non-commercial 23hp Cub Cadet with a 50 inch cut. The turn radius is amazingly small. I have no problems circling trees. I do have to use a weed eater along the fences. It takes about 1.25 hour+/- to mow my now thin grass (drought).
You could get a tow-behind tiller such as the DR but then you're looking at another $2-3000 http://www.drpower.com/twos...e=rotohogtiller2step

[This message has been edited by 2farnorth (edited 02-18-2012).]

quote Originally posted by 8Ball: So where should I begin?

I would begin with looking at Consumer Reports and getting an idea of the most reliable brands.


Then you have multiple personal preference decisions to make.


First, I would forget the power take off idea. I 'think' you'd come out ahead financially and convenience wise if you don't spend the extra on a riding mower with pto, and buy a separate, stand alone tiller.

Next, do you want an "automatic transmission" (actually a hydrostatic transmission) or not. Costs a couple hundred more. I liked having it. Has a foot pedal and drives like an automatic car. Easy to vary the speed, stop, and turn without having to manually shift gears. But that may not come into play as much for you with the size of the yard you have.

Next, cutting deck size and horse power. I would think minimum deck size you want would be in the 40 inch range, and horse power in the 20's. From there, it is just how much you want to spend.


Traction I really don't think is going to be a big differentiator.

And they all are going to have a head light and cup holder for what you are looking for.
I thought John Deere always had a good reputation. Simplicity, too.

But some of the "big box" stores have some pretty good pricing. But if I find a model there, I usually try to see if there is a local seller who has it, and offer them a chance to come close. Supporting the locals.


Finally, I agree with craigslist. it doesn't hurt to look. Since I'm not confident in my ability to assess things mechanically, I look for pretty new stuff. I got a great Honda self propelled mower that was $700, for $400 and it was still new in the box. Never did really understand why he was selling it. Hope it wasn't "hot"! (I don't think it was). But something a year or two old could be many hundreds of dollars less (even 800 to 1,000) and could be a good deal.

Good luck in your purchase.

I bought a John Deere lawn tractor last year and am pleased with it. The mower is available with two different size decks (42 and 48 inch I believe), hasd a good turn radius, and a hose connection on the deck for an internal wash system.

Nelson

quote Originally posted by frontal lobe: I would begin with looking at Consumer Reports and getting an idea of the most reliable brands. Then you have multiple personal preference decisions to make. First, I would forget the power take off idea. I 'think' you'd come out ahead financially and convenience wise if you don't spend the extra on a riding mower with pto, and buy a separate, stand alone tiller. Next, do you want an "automatic transmission" (actually a hydrostatic transmission) or not. Costs a couple hundred more. I liked having it. Has a foot pedal and drives like an automatic car. Easy to vary the speed, stop, and turn without having to manually shift gears. But that may not come into play as much for you with the size of the yard you have. Next, cutting deck size and horse power. I would think minimum deck size you want would be in the 40 inch range, and horse power in the 20's. From there, it is just how much you want to spend. Traction I really don't think is going to be a big differentiator. And they all are going to have a head light and cup holder for what you are looking for. I thought John Deere always had a good reputation. Simplicity, too. But some of the "big box" stores have some pretty good pricing. But if I find a model there, I usually try to see if there is a local seller who has it, and offer them a chance to come close. Supporting the locals. Finally, I agree with craigslist. it doesn't hurt to look. Since I'm not confident in my ability to assess things mechanically, I look for pretty new stuff. I got a great Honda self propelled mower that was $700, for $400 and it was still new in the box. Never did really understand why he was selling it. Hope it wasn't "hot"! (I don't think it was). But something a year or two old could be many hundreds of dollars less (even 800 to 1,000) and could be a good deal. Good luck in your purchase.

I would agee with the majority of what Dan said in his post but since we don't have a price range, I'd advise also looking at small tractors with belly or PTO mowers on a three point lift. Much more versatile and will provide many more years of use if you take care of them. I prefer the diesel versions but to each their own. They also can be purchased used but have someone knowlegable with them take a look before you buy.

With my allergies, I hate mowing. So, I want to get it done as quickly as possible. You can get some pretty large finish mowers for these smaller tractors along with many other implements for gardening, snow plows, front loaders, etc............... Just my thoughts.

------------------
Ron
The key thing is to wake up breathing! All the rest can be fixed. (Except Stupid - You can't fix that)
Always remember these words of wisdom.

"The Lord must truly love fools, for he made them in abundance."

I also mow 2.5 acres. I have the largest one the local sears carried, 23HP. 50" Mowing almost full speed takes me 3-4 hours.
I have all the tree (around 80 trees) rounded with mulch at the turning diameter (which is fairly tight) so I can make one turn around the trees and not have to trim.
I've had the mower almost 10 years and I also use it to clean my 450' drive pushing snow with a 4' blade. No pto but has been a trouble free mower. Headlights (not super bright) and cup holder included.

One thing I looked for was the brand of motor and if the front axle support was cast or stamped metal. The solid cast are better.
Mine is the semi hydrostatic which is a self contained transmission (no fluid to add) which has stood up very well to the workout I give it.
Only issues I have had are replaced the bearings on one spindle and the plastic fuel tank got a small leak from a crack after 8 years. JB weld fixed that.
Keep any good mower maintained and oil changed regularly and they stand up pretty well.

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 02-18-2012).]

Thanks guys!! All great points.

I have been searching Craigslist for a couple months.. Looking for jsut the RIGHT deal...
I know from my past experience, that Kubota and John Deere are very nice. I can't find any used Kubotas atm... and new they are a bit more than I want to spend atm.... I would like to stay under $1500 and more preferably under $1k for a used mower.

Our local Police Department has two professional Fairway mowers for sale, from the local golf coarse... But I already bid them up over my limit
I can find several John Deere's for sale, but most are at least 10 years old. They still look like they are in good shape.... But still 10+ years old.

I found what looked like a great deal on A Husqvarna, But I did some research on that particular model.. It was plaqued with traction issues and liked to eat drive belts... so I passed on it too.

I actually LIKE to mow, I find it relaxing. So if it takes me an entire Saturday.. I am not really worried about it. However, I expect my yard to take 2 hours max...Not including trimming the hedges and such.

I'm partial to older Gravely's. Check them out. Rear engine for traction. Direct drive transmissions. All heavy steel or cast iron construction. Direct PTO with tons of attachments. I expect the one I have to be the last one I ever have to buy, and it was made in the mid 70s.

Think what you are going to use it for...just cutting grass ? If your going to haul yard stuff around and plow snow it will affect what you want. I have over 2 acres myself and i have a narrow 40" Craftsman to get between stuff and it only takes me a little over an hour to cut. It wont push a plow or pull a tiller. I wanted electric starter. If its got a battery for starting, you can hook up your own lights and set them where you want. Get a comfy seat. Mine has a cup holder but i never use it. All the levers and handles should be easy to operate and reach from the seat. I def want a 4 stroke engine. Another thing is look to see if a model you like has a sun top so you dont burn up on a sunny day. Mine has a rear bagger, but its a pita and needs emptied every 15 minutes...i just let it cut and mulch and leave it alone. I put the whole bagger assembly in the basement and forgot it. Do you want a side or rear discharge ? It might make a difference to you where it throws the cuttings.

I don't really expect to be plowing snow. On those days... I don't go in And we don't get many of them.
I may want o pull a trailer around the yard in the future and I have only ever used a side throw mower.. Didn't know they had rear throws.
As for a tiller, like i said, no bigger a garden than I will have, I suspect my push tiller will work.

I'm a big fan of hydrostatic drive, which gives you precise, infinitely-variable speed control; I consider it well worth the extra cost. I have had a very good experience with the American-made Honda mower I bought my wife as an engagement gift almost 23 years ago.

quote Originally posted by Marvin McInnis: I have had a very good experience with the American-made Honda mower I bought my wife as an engagement gift almost 23 years ago.

Marvin, all I'm gonna say is, YOU DA MAN!!!

------------------
Ron
The key thing is to wake up breathing! All the rest can be fixed. (Except Stupid - You can't fix that)
Always remember these words of wisdom.

"The Lord must truly love fools, for he made them in abundance."

quote Originally posted by Mytime: I'm partial to older Gravely's. Check them out. Rear engine for traction. Direct drive transmissions. All heavy steel or cast iron construction. Direct PTO with tons of attachments. I expect the one I have to be the last one I ever have to buy, and it was made in the mid 70s.

I had to finally replace my 30+ year old Gravely a year ago. Still running on a rebuilt 12 horse Kohler, 8 forward gears and 2 reverse. But the mower deck was getting pretty bad and the battery charging system has gone out. Still use it as a tractor but have to charge the battery each time. Parts are getting expensive. If I could get enough traction I think that thing would pull small stumps..lol

Iam in the lawn business and have been in the golf industry. My main profession is a network tech for the cable company. I still have my lawn business. That fairway maker would be no good if it has a reel system on it. Also to fix anything on those machines is really exspensive. Those mowers run about 30k for a new one. Like the others said I would either go with an JD rider small lawn tractor. If you are going to get one I would get it from the JD dealer in your area those are a grade A product. The mowers at home depot lowes ect are a grade C at best. Kubota you are paying for the engine which will run for ever. I would save up and get my self an acre tractor that has a mower deck plus pro shaft in the back and loader option. Those are about 5-8k for a good one. I have a new holland acre tractor and love it. Great for small areas and has the dump bucket. Any more q's just pm me

quote Originally posted by 8Ball: What do you think of this one? http://knoxville.craigslist.../grd/2857301938.html

We have an LA165 my father bought new in 2009 or so, and I have not been impressed, I've had to fix it and replace a number of things, and it only gets used about 6 months a year, half an hour a week. Also might have the WORST bagging attachment ever conceived by man, same one installed on that one, the John Deere brand no less.

I'm probably not going to be popular with this, but around here the small engine shops don't like to work on John Deere tractors.

The larger ones are probably OK, but their riding mowers stopped using steel gears years ago and went to plastic. The reliability has went downhill.

Brad

Well shoot... I read up a little on the L120 and yea... general consensus is it is junk.
Hmmmmm

There is a Kubota in Nashville.. It is a bit of a drive, but maybe I will check it out.

[This message has been edited by 8Ball (edited 02-18-2012).]

Get an old craftsman (silver single cylinder ones) there solid riding mowers that you can get for cheap.. (i got one for free that only needed a battery and gas..) worked for years..

[This message has been edited by pontiackid86 (edited 02-18-2012).]

I personally would like a non hydrostatic machine IF you have long straight or semi straight runs where you wont change speed often. This was you dont need to keep the pedal down. I run commercial mowers all summer long. You can get a used but not abused homeowner used zero for around your budget. I get people asking me all summer long if I want to buy their mowers. We just bought 6 new scag's yesterday. 13 grand each but we get 3 gradn each back in tax credits because they are propane.


Thats what we bought.

I would avoid ferris. They are junk. I used to love then but moved to other makes and realized how junk they are. Once you get good with a zero you wont need to trim much of anything unless you want the nice sloping edges.

Having worked in the LAHNMOWAH business (Kubota and Cub Cadet dealership) my last job, I'll offer that for your budget, a Kubota in any kind of decent shape is going to be very very difficult to find, and in spite of their 'good' reputation, our shop had them running out the service bays--as were all other brands.

As far as anything with a true pto and 3 pt lift, IMO, they are more trouble than they are worth, and is an added load to what is almost always an underpowered machine to begin with.

When you hear people say get "an older ___________" mower, think almost "ancient" in most cases.
Lawn equipment went thru the same thing US auto companies went thru. For about a decade, they made cheap junk and sold gobs of them based solely on the brand name and decades' PAST quality reputations. Even Kubota. Kubata has always been expensive, and they were able to get their asking price because they made good dependable heavy duty machines early on, in order to get US market share. Once they had it, they dropped their quality and maintained the same pricing structure, depending on the nameplate and color to sell during the early to mid 2000s. Cub Cadet, Craftsman, and Gravely, decades ago, were great brands and each made a quality machine, but they too, all dropped quality and just banked on the name and their past performance. Beginning a few years ago, other brands began making inroads into the market, with good quality machines, and many of the companies I mentioned above took notice, and began putting a little more quality back into their machines, especially in the engines and decks, but be careful--some just put the "appearance" of quality into those decks. Heavier (barely) gauge steel stamped decks. The best decks are welded decks-no matter what the brand, but virtually all non-commercial decks (residential) are now stamped. When you stamp steel, any bend, curve or radius will result in the steel being stretched and thus thinner in that area, resulting in early rust thru. Welded decks don't have that problem--but they are expensive and heavy.
Deck spindle bearings. If I changed one, I changed 1000--or more. Remember I said some just applied the "appearance" of quality? This is one area they did it. They went back to putting grease fittings in the spindles (all MTDs did this), but then installed sealed ("so called" lubed for life) bearings. You could pump grease from now till Kingdom come, and the bearings never saw an ounce of new grease. (the pumped grease just came out a weep hole in the spindle housing)

IF you decide to look at used zero truns or any machine with hyd pumps for steering, beware of anything that has unevenly aligned steering handles. Generally, that means a pump is on it's way out and someone (usually an owner) has adjusted the long handle-to-pump linkage so both pumps pull evenly. Even if the handles do line up and the machine runs perfectly, beware. Look underneath at the pumps and you will find some adjustment screws ONE on each pump. If they are not even on each side, that means someone (probably an authorized service shop) has made the same type adjustment there. Pumps can run hundreds of $$ the hydralic system is easily 1/3 the cost of any zero turn). Same with hydrostatics--that system is expensive to manufacter and expensive to replace--and few shops repair them--they just replace them.
(if they aren't hydrostats, they use what is known as a vari-drive, which is basically an adjustable diameter belt driven final drive pulley. The drive vari-drive unit itself is normally bulletproof, but the idlers, guides, and belts make it a PITA to both use and maintain.
Generally, There are 3 different methods to engage the decks:
1. Real drive shat type pto--high end, but usually bulletproof tho expensive.
2. Idler pulley that tightens a drive belt, thru an arraingement of links, springs and levers. This is el cheapo.
3. Electric PTO clutch on the end of the engine driveshaft in both vertical and horizontal engines. They work great when they work, but I've seen a ton of them fall of and they are about $280 the last time I looked. Falling off due to the bolt getting loose or shearing off was fairly common. We had to replace several otherwise good engines because the threads in the crankshaft were destroyed when that clutch fell off.

They do cut down on the wear points and all the monkey motion ya see under most lawn tractors tho.

Non zero turn residental grade lawn tractors:
New machines TODAY. I would go:
Husqavara,
Dixe Chpper,
Skag--
/\ All expensive but all will last many years of heavy abuse if maintained even minimally. Kubota might make the list if they've improved from what they were in the early to mid 2000s. Higher end JDs are getting good reviews, but keep in mind, JD owners seem to be loyal to a fault no matter what their actual experience is.

Used-Older high end John Deere-- (even JD went the cheap junk route on their low end models during the 2000s.) NO MTD made machines--I have one, but can't reccomend them.
OLDER Gravelys.
OLDER Cub Cadets--(pre-MTD merger)
OLDER Troy Bilt (pre MTD models)
OLDER Craftsman--again--watch for the "Built by MTD for Craftsman" on the label--avaoid it.
OLDER Kubota, and I hate em simply because they are forign made, but those who own older ones love em.
OLDER Wizard.
Maybe an Ariens--Heard good things about them, and we had very very few come thru the shop.

NOT on MY list to buy used:

Lawn Boy,
Yard Man.
Murray.--unless it is an older one.
Yard Machine.
Huskee.
Huskie.
Bolens.
White Outdoor.
Poulan.
MTD Craftsman........


About Craftsman, since they have enjoyed a storied reputation in America. We were an all brand shop--we turned nothing away tho we were "authorized" warranty on only Kubota, Cub Cadet, and MTD lines. In the 2 years I worked there, I saw only 2 Craftsman machines come in, but that may have been because there was an Authorized Craftsman dealer and shop here.

This is a partial list of MTDs which I would not reccomend unless you are really familar with lawn tracors/riders and don't mind working on them. Some of these, I have had zero experience with but because they are MTD, I wouldn't reccomend them:

ACE Hardware,
Agway,
Bolens,
Brute,
Columbia,
Craftsman / Sears,
Cub Cadet Home maintenance,
Estate,
Garden Way,
Hechinger,
Huskee / Husky,
Lawn Chief,
Lawn flite,
Mastercraft,
Mastercut,
McCulloch,
MTD Black,
MTD Gold,
MTD Pro,
Platinum,
Ranch King,
Remmington,
Ryobi Outdoor,
Sam's club,
ServiceStar,
Silver series,
Statesman,
Trimmer Plus,
Turf Power,
Turf Pro,
Wizard,
Yard Machines and Yard Man.

(Not saying they are bad, just can't reccomend them to anyone even tho I do own an MTD riding mower and cut over 1 acre of rough yard with it--but I know what to expect from it. (it didn't disappoint me--a deck spring broke the 2nd time I used it--replaced it myself with one off an old Ford tractor brake return pedal--1950s old)

Decks:
Cub Cadet and many MTDs has (had?) a deck wash system on some of their decks. It was a special fitting on the edge of their deck with a quick connect that you hooked a garden hose to. Water sprayed underneath to wash out the grass cuttings and dirt. Good idea, but caused early deck failures, and MTD recommended people not use it very often. Decks are designed to aid the blades in "lifting" the blades of grass as the front edge passes over by creating a low pressure area up under the deck--lots of curves and profiles in the deck layout sesign. Of course, dirt and grass build up and hinder this, so you have to keep most of it cleaned out. The problems arose because it worked too well, exposing shiny dirt/sand blasted steel every time the deck wash system was used, which meant the decks quickly rusted from underneath, as all the factory paint was quickly gone. Keep the top of the deck clean as can be between uses, but clean the underneath just enough to keep thick buildup gone. A thin layer of grass and dirt actually keeps the bare steel from being exposed to air--rust has to have air in order to occur.

Steering.
Most residential (non-power steer) units use a very simple steering system. A little gear on the lower end of the shaft and a big halhmoon shaped gear that links to the tie rods. Most brands come with a soft metal bushing at the top of the column just under the steering wheel and another one (same part #) on the lower end. Never had to replace an upper bushing but had to replace a ton of lower bushings. We found, that tthere is also a plastic version of that bushing available, and for whatever reason, that plastic version had a much much longer lifespan than the soft metal bushing.

Sorry this is so long, just--well, I DO have an opinion on everything and you DID ask.

[This message has been edited by maryjane (edited 02-18-2012).]

Without reading most of the thread, I work at Menards.... we mainly sell MTD or variants thereof.... MTD is basically the Ford of lawnmowers... MTD owns most of all of the major brands (that can be found at a Menards or Walmart) now including Cub Cadet...

In terms of quality... they're economy... they'd be the same as buying a GM or Ford.... good enough but still cheap enough in quality.

quote Originally posted by maryjane: Sorry this is so long, just--well, I DO have an opinion on everything and you DID ask.

That is a LOT of good info!! Thank you!

I have never been a fan of MTD... MY Step Father went thru 4 of them in one year.. The Deck would warp on them every time. I have read many other horror stories as well.

Well, the Kubota I was going to go look at today, sold. No biggie... I will keep hunting. IT is still a month before I move in and 2 months before I will need to mow. Plus I am going to have a landscaper come int he first time and get everything back into a manageable shape... The hedges, ivy and flowerbeds.

But I am certainly better equipped to now get royally hosed! Thank you guys.

Basicaly what I am taking fromt his.. Is avoid all the box stores, and look for the higher tier stuff. Add a grand to my budget and I should do ok..


If I thought for a second I would use all this.. I would buy it!!!

http://knoxville.craigslist...tid/2859119432.html.

I contacted them, but I suspect it is a scam...

[This message has been edited by 8Ball (edited 02-19-2012).]

quote Originally posted by 8Ball: Basically, what I am taking from all this ... is avoid all the box stores, and look for the higher tier stuff. Add a grand to my budget and I should do ok.

Let me give you a little more gum to chew.
In 2001, I had a little over a half acre of my own to cut. I also did my then fiances place, about 3/4 of an acre. I went to the local, reputable lawn mower shop and bought a used mower from them for $400.00. 11 1/2 HP Briggs and Stratten Industrial Grade Commercial () engine and a 36" twin blade cut. It is a TaskForce by MTD, an early 80's model. In 04 I added another acre of cutting chores. I also have seven different trailers so I put a 2" ball on it. I still use it today working out at a cost of $33.00 dollars a year. One deck blade bearing, one deck blade belt, and batteries every few years, is all I have needed. I still use it today. You don't gotta spend a lot of money.

I've had my Murray 42" Briggs and Stratton (16HP) since about 1994. So far I replaced 2 spindles (I'm not sure if they were the same side), and the battery every few years. The rear axle seal was leaking and I need to get to it soon, but besides that, I change the oil/filter and sharpen the blades ( I think I'm on about the 4the set). I mow a little under an acre and abuse that mower every chance I get ( I've even rolled it over twice- I have a pretty steep hill). The current issue is that the air is seeping out of the tires, but a little Fix-a-flat has fixed that issue. I have zero deck rust or rust anywhere else for that matter. Somehow I suspect the engine will far outlast the rest of it. They don't sell Murray's around here anymore, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one.

[This message has been edited by carnut122 (edited 02-19-2012).]

quote Originally posted by cliffw: It is a TaskForce by MTD, an early 80's model. You don't gotta spend a lot of money.

quote Originally posted by carnut: I've had my Murray 42" Briggs and Stratton (16HP) since about 1994.

Yep, older ones were better than most anything made in the 2000s.

I say if all you're going to do with it is mow, then go with a decent commercial grade zero turn. You can't even begin to appreciate what a difference it makes until you actually compare them in normal use. We mow about 2 acres of our property which consists of a couple of wide open areas, some paths through some meadows, and a few more in a wooded area on the property. We had a Ford 2600 with a brush hog, and a Craftsman with a 42" deck. The Ford was simply too big and bulky for normal use, and even mowing the meadows was a pain as the turning radius seemed like just under a half a mile. The Craftsman was a decent mower, but the fastest you could go and retain any kind of decent cut was 3rd gear which might have been 3 or 4 mph. The bottom line is that it took me about 5 hours to cut all of the area we mowed with the Craftsman.
Last year we sold off the Ford and bought a used Exmark 52" zero turn, and as God as my witness I'll tell you it takes me 1 hour to mow everything. It's not just the zero turn capabilities that make a difference, it's the speed at which you can mow. I bet my mow speed is now closer to 10-12 mph, and there's no more jockying to turn the mower around with the zero turn. The other thing is, it takes WAY less gas to mow the lawn. I was getting typically maybe one or one and a half mowings at best form the Craftsman, depending on how much I would skip from one week to the next, and how heavy the grass was. The Exmark has 2x 7 gallon tanks, (The Craftsman has a 5 gallon tank) and I only filled one tank..meaning I burned less than 21 gallons *all summer*, mowing roughly 3 times per two weeks.
Yeah, they're pretty expensive, but mowing 2.5 acres with a riding mower is almost a whole second full time job- ( I would usually mow a couple of hours a night 2 or 3 nights a week and most of a day on the weekend) Last summer with the new mower I'd get home at about 7:30 after working out, hop on the Exmark, and be finished in time for supper.

Oh, and if you want to pull a yard cart, most zero turn mowers can be outfitted with a hitch to accommodate that.

Just my .02

quote Originally posted by maryjane: This is a partial list of MTDs which I would not reccomend unless you are really familar with lawn tracors/riders and don't mind working on them. Some of these, I have had zero experience with but because they are MTD, I wouldn't reccomend them:

Add Troy Bilt to that list. We have an ancient Troy Bilt tiller that has never failed, so I bought a Troy Bilt lawn tractor because of how good the tiller was. Big mistake because it is just a re-badged MTD/Murray Tractor Division POS. The hydrostatic transmission will barely pull the slight incline in my front yard and the carrier bearings in the deck failed after less than half a season. The old Simplicity tractor that I gave away when I got the Troy Bilt is still going, so if you can find a Simplicity that is in good shape, go for it!
But, at one time MTD did do a lot of stamped metal parts that were pretty good quality...my Fiero cradle has the familiar MTD logo stamped into it.

Ok... So the tractor as expected was a scam.

So basically what I am gathering is... Either buy an OLD mower.. Pre 2k for a few hundred bucks, or buy a new commercial grade mower from a dealer like John Deere, Kubota, skag, or along those lines.... I really don't think I need a Zero Turn level of mower.. I get what you are saying about it doing the yard fast... But remember... Mowing the yard is my relaxation. I don't need it done in an hour

I truly do enjoy sitting on my mower and mowing. In NS I mowed 11-13 acres every week. Took me about 6 hours I think and I loved almost every minute of it. Sure some days I didn't feel like it, but even then.. It wasn't a big deal.

Another thing to consider with a commercial mower is that when the time comes to sell its much easier as another guy in a situation like your could buy it, or a lawncare guy or landscape company or golf course.

It's not just the speed, but the comfort as well. Most zeroturns are really comfortable to sit on and use, where as a traditional rider or garden tractor is not. I've never owned a zero turn, but have used lots of them in demonstrations, testing repairs, and mowing the grass around the dealership. I don't know your height or weigt, but when I get off my MTD riding mower, I feel like someone has beat me with a stick. Zero turns also tend to have better deck adjustment and that will show on a big yard like you have in a nice landscaped neighborhood. No one (but me maybe ) wants a mower that "scalps" the lawn.

Box stores do often carry a good name mower (NOT Walmart tho) perhaps even Husqvarna, but if you need it worked on under warranty, you will have to take it to an authorized dealership anyway. I was not in sales at all so I don't know what the diff is between a box store machine and dealership machine markup. We did lots of warranty work for Lowes, Walmart, Home Depot sold machines. Dealerships DO get trade ins on higher end machines, so don't forget to ask around your area. We got quite a few Kubotas in for trade, but they didn't stay on the floor long.

Yes Cooter, I evidently left Troybilt off the list. My bad. Another famous quality name that became infamous when MTD took them over. The saying in our shop was "Troy shouldn't have built a damn thing", but the old Horse series Troybilts were indeed hard to beat, and just about everyone nowdays has tried (unsuccessfully) to copy them. My B-I-L has a rear tine Troybilt that is probably 20 years old or older and is still going strong. (I did replace a gearbox seal on it last year, but that's to be expected as he always has a huge garden each year and has a lot of sand in his soil.) At age 70+, he still uses it one handed with no problems.

Something you might want to consider is a set of gang mowers for behind your tractor. I just thought of it after reading someone’s post about working golf courses. You can get them in just about any number of combinations, and the more mowers you get the quicker cutting the lawn goes. It also makes you able to disable the tractors blades and have more power to pull more gang mowers. But it does make a yard with a lot of trees more difficult. Because of the width of the gang mowers, But you can also make the with smaller by using less mowers. Most are like the old style push mowers with no motors.

Steve

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Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't.

Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

quote Originally posted by Taijiguy: Last year we sold off the Ford and bought a used Exmark 52" zero turn, and as God as my witness I'll tell you it takes me 1 hour to mow everything. It's not just the zero turn capabilities that make a difference, it's the speed at which you can mow. I bet my mow speed is now closer to 10-12 mph, and there's no more jockying to turn the mower around with the zero turn. The other thing is, it takes WAY less gas to mow the lawn. I was getting typically maybe one or one and a half mowings at best form the Craftsman, depending on how much I would skip from one week to the next, and how heavy the grass was. The Exmark has 2x 7 gallon tanks, (The Craftsman has a 5 gallon tank) and I only filled one tank..meaning I burned less than 21 gallons *all summer*, mowing roughly 3 times per two weeks. Yeah, they're pretty expensive, but mowing 2.5 acres with a riding mower is almost a whole second full time job- ( I would usually mow a couple of hours a night 2 or 3 nights a week and most of a day on the weekend) Last summer with the new mower I'd get home at about 7:30 after working out, hop on the Exmark, and be finished in time for supper. Oh, and if you want to pull a yard cart, most zero turn mowers can be outfitted with a hitch to accommodate that. Just my .02

This is exactly what I was going to say. Glad I read the whole thread before posting, you took the words right out of my mouth. Especially the fuel economy of this machine! Love going the whole summer without once filling up!

Plus the resale factor is there as well.

I own several tractors (most found in the trash or other freebies).

This Tecumseh 10 HP 42" deck Massey Ferguson is the oldest and best tractor I've owned:


This 20HP Onan 50" deck MTD has been a trouble free mower (except for the stamped front axle):


This Briggs 18HP 42" deck POS Weed Eater (made by American Yard Products) has been good too but the steering is worn out & lousy:

If you are mechanically inclined you can get away with a el cheapo rider and fix the minor problems that crop up.

I am VERY mechanically inclined.. But I also don't want something I will spend more time fixing than using.
I also just can't see me spending $4K+ on a commercial mower. Even the used ones with 1k+ hours on them are selling for $3200 and up.

quote Originally posted by 8Ball: What about the Toro Timesaver ...

Give me some of what you are smoking.

quote Originally posted by 8Ball: I truly do enjoy sitting on my mower and mowing.

Some times it is good sitting on the outside looking in, .

[This message has been edited by cliffw (edited 02-19-2012).]

quote Originally posted by 8Ball: I am VERY mechanically inclined.. But I also don't want something I will spend more time fixing than using. I also just can't see me spending $4K+ on a commercial mower. Even the used ones with 1k+ hours on them are selling for $3200 and up.

I'm with you on the cost of some of these mowers. I will say (as others have posted above) that I see people on the commercial / zero turn mowers zipping around alot faster than I can mow with any of my mowers.