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DSM and Crank Walk? by Khw
Started on: 01-21-2012 11:08 PM
Replies: 9
Last post by: Deabionni on 01-22-2012 03:44 PM
Khw
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Report this Post01-21-2012 11:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for KhwSend a Private Message to KhwDirect Link to This Post
Okay, so I assume DSM means Diamond Star Motors. Now, what exactly is crank walk? What motor is the whole discriptive term being used for? Is it any motor of that type? Certain years? Only turboed?

Reason I ask is I recently purchased a 97 Neon with the 2.0 DOHC, ECC code engine. It's the same engine used in Mistubishi Eclipses, except the head intake and exhaust is reversed. I'm curious "what" Crank Walk is and if it's something I should check for or if I can even check for it? Is it even something I have to "worry" about?
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Fiero_Fan_88
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Report this Post01-21-2012 11:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero_Fan_88Send a Private Message to Fiero_Fan_88Direct Link to This Post
A 'walking' crankshaft is a crankshaft that moves too much inside the engine. This is also known as excessive thrust bearing play. The movement is usually due to the crankshaft not fitting inside its bearings correctly. While not bad for the crankshaft, the movement can place excessive or uneven loads on the bearings, causing premature failures.

Many 2G owners have suffered from walking crankshafts. It appears that Mitsubishi built many 2G engines using defective crankshafts, which were machined out of specification and are thus capable of moving around too much inside the block. All 2G model years appear to be affected to some degree.

To fix this problem, Mitsubishi has designed several versions of matching crankshaft bearings. This allows the defective motor to retain the crankshaft, yet matches the bearings correctly so as to eliminate the excessive crankshaft movement. Matching the bearings in this manner is tricky and requires exact information about when the crankshaft was manufactured, which may be determined by color markings on the crankshaft itself. The 2G factory manual includes information on how to match crankshafts to bearings.

1G owners do not generally need to worry, as there are no chronic problems with crankwalk in per-1995 cars. However, it is possible for any engine to experience crankwalk if there is a problem with the crankshaft bearings. It has been reported that 'small rod' / 7-bolt flywheel motors (manufactured from later 1992 through 1994 on 1Gs) are more prone to crankwalk than 'big rod' / 6-bolt flywheel engines (manufactured from 1989 to early 1992). However, there can be no guarantees, since big block V8s and all other engines can also suffer from crankwalk.

It can be difficult to tell if a particular car is experiencing crankwalk. Symptoms are usually indirect and difficult to diagnose until major damage occurs.

Since the clutch places pressure on the crankshaft, many owners have reported clutch or shifting problems associated with the walking crank. Having the clutch 'stick' down on left-hand turns is often a telltale sign of crankwalk. Other symptoms include inconsistent engagement height, poor or rough engagement, difficulty shifting, ticking noises and varying pedal height or pressure. Another possibility is having the engine RPM decrease significantly when the clutch pedal is down.

Another problem with crankwalk is that the crankshaft may move so much as to literally tear up and destroy the 2G crankshaft angle sensor. This problem usually manifests itself as a ticking noise coming from the timing belt area, as the sensor is literally and slowly ground away by the crankshaft. Any such noise should be investigated right away to prevent serious problems.

Unfortunately, cranshaft angle sensor failure usually leads to a replacement sensor, rather than a replacement crankshaft, as mechanics fail to diagnose the underlying problem. 2G owners who have experienced premature failure of the crankshaft angle sensor should investigate the possibility of a walking crankshaft immediately.

http://members.shaw.ca/cost....htm#whatiscrankwalk

[This message has been edited by Fiero_Fan_88 (edited 01-21-2012).]

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RWDPLZ
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Report this Post01-22-2012 12:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZSend a Private Message to RWDPLZDirect Link to This Post
Obligatory:

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Racingman24
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Report this Post01-22-2012 01:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Racingman24Click Here to visit Racingman24's HomePageSend a Private Message to Racingman24Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by RWDPLZ:

Obligatory:



If you didn't, I was going to
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Devotshka
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Report this Post01-22-2012 01:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DevotshkaSend a Private Message to DevotshkaDirect Link to This Post
The Neon ECC engine is sister to the Eclipse 420A engine only (Chrysler built).

Crank walk is a Mitsubishi engine problem, affecting 4G6 variants (specifically 4G63, 4G63T). Otherwise all information above is about right (I just skimmed it). Your engine has nothing to do with Mitsubishi however, other than a variant of it was put into Chrysler powered Eclipses. Again, nothing (habitual) crank walk related happens to ECC or 420A engines; they are not Mitsubishi engines.
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Khw
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Report this Post01-22-2012 11:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for KhwSend a Private Message to KhwDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Devotshka:

The Neon ECC engine is sister to the Eclipse 420A engine only (Chrysler built).

Crank walk is a Mitsubishi engine problem, affecting 4G6 variants (specifically 4G63, 4G63T). Otherwise all information above is about right (I just skimmed it). Your engine has nothing to do with Mitsubishi however, other than a variant of it was put into Chrysler powered Eclipses. Again, nothing (habitual) crank walk related happens to ECC or 420A engines; they are not Mitsubishi engines.


Thank you! That's what I needed to know most. The other info from Fiero_Fan_88 was great to. I just wanted to make sure, since the engine in mine was used in the Eclipse, that mine wasn't the one that was most in danger of this. I had a feeling it was the 4G63 engine, but I just wanted to be sure.
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Raydar
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Report this Post01-22-2012 11:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Racingman24:
If you didn't, I was going to


I knew that somebody would.
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$Rich$
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Report this Post01-22-2012 03:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for $Rich$Send a Private Message to $Rich$Direct Link to This Post
mostly it is the 4g63 manual trans cars,
i had an auto and never had an issue, most dont with autos
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Khw
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Report this Post01-22-2012 03:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for KhwSend a Private Message to KhwDirect Link to This Post
Well, I have to change the headgasket on the car. Apparantly it's common for them to fail between 60k and 80k. This one is at 84k... I will say one thing, after working on the Fiero with the Iron Duke, the engine bay in the Neon is TIGHT. OMG, there is barely any room inbetween anything in there, ugh! I finally got the intake manifold all unbolted and read to take off... except as you pull it away from the head it hit's the power steering bracket and won't clear the studs used to hold the intake manifold on. So, looks like I will be getting the exhaust manifold unbolted and the timing cover and belt off. Once that's done and I unbolt the head and break it free, I'll lift it up enough to clear the power steering bracket so I can get the intake manifold off. I think... if it's possible, I'm going to bolt the intake and exhaust manifold back up to the head before I reinstall it. That would make reassembly ALOT easier if it can be done (clearance issues).
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Deabionni
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Report this Post01-22-2012 03:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DeabionniSend a Private Message to DeabionniDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by RWDPLZ:

Obligatory:



Who needs a dog when you can walk your crank?

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