This is sort of a "build" thread for the little things I am doing to the new (to me) 2000 Chevy S-10 Blazer Cindy and I purchased a week ago...

A list of things I have done so far:
AD244/DR44G High Output Alternator upgrade
Updated stereo system with bluetooth
Resolved issues with remote start system that came installed
Replaced rear wiper motor

I'll take and post photos as I can, but it has been raining all week....

This is what it looks like (small photo)... Same color and wheels.


The truck features a clean body and frame, with the exception of the receiver hitch, which looks like it has spent the last 11 years at the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean...
142,000 miles on the truck, and, other than a worn driver's side hinge pin bushing, a broken wire in the left front ABS wire harness, the stock radio having a blown speaker and the rear wiper motor, was fully functional when purchased.

Things I have discovered during the last week of ownership...
The stock radio is not original to this truck. When I removed the dash bezel to install my Alpine CDA-9887 and Bluetooth module, the radio was not mounted, did not have the correct mount brackets, and was in very rough shape externally.

I installed the new CD player, and mounted everything solid.

The Alternator appeared to be weak. When I'd start the truck, the alternator would hover around 10 volts on the gauge, and then slowly move up to under 14 volts. Blinkers, brake lights or other accessories would cause the needle to twitch.

The stock alternator is a CS130D model, rated at 105 amps. Output at idle was 25 amps, and there were signs of carbon dust on the back of the alternator. There was a remanufactured sticker on the side, as well as the etchings for amperage were removed from the case.

A common upgrade for the Alternator is to move to the newer style (and physically larger) AD244 series alternator.
The larger alternators feature ball bearings for the shaft, vs needle bearings that the CS130D uses, the regulator, including both the positive and negative diode packs are completely external to the design of the alternator, and the cooling fan is internal.
This promotes longer life, better reliability, and the ability to have as much as 160 amps of output stock.

Here's a shot of the AD244/DR44G alternator on the left, compared to the CS130D on the right...


These alternators are available on the 2000 to 2005 GM full sized trucks, and are literally a direct bolt in. Not all of them will work, depending on the regulator plug on the alternator and whether it is a 2 wire or a 4 wire, but most should bolt right in with no mods.
The AD244 was superceded by the DR44G which is physically identical from the outside, but the negative diodes are embedded in the case of the alternator rather than externally replaceable.
Later models of the DR44G also rely on the PCM to determine output. The PCM sends a PWM signal to the Alternator to regulate how much power is being generated. If the alternator does not receive that PWM signal, it will not generate power at all.

I chose to upgrade to the AD244/DR44G design alternator, which again, is physically larger than the CS130D, yet uses the same mounting dimensions.

2000 Chevy Blazer Engine Bay (Not my photo, but identical)


I purchased a NEW alternator for a 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 for 150 dollars from Oreilly Auto. It has a lifetime warranty, bolts directly in, and only moves the pulley about 1/2" total from the original pulley location.
This alternator has a stock output of 150 amps.

Replacement was a breeze, and took less than 10 minutes from start to finish due to the location of the alternator on the top of the engine.
The 2000 Chevy Blazer uses a serpentine belt that is 95 5/8" long.
When you upgrade to the newer alternator, you need a belt that is approximately an inch longer. So I purchased a 96 5/8" belt.
This is to keep the tensioner in the correct location without overtightening the belt.

What the AD244/DR44G looks like when installed (Again, not my photos)



Using an alternator tester at Oreilly, the new alternator had an amperage output at idle of 112 amps when loaded.
When I first started the truck, the gauge immediately rose to 14 volts with no delay, like with the old alternator. The lights are brighter, the gauge doesn't move at all, even with the AC, rear defrost, headlights/high beams, 4 way flashers and every other item being used. I even rolled all four windows up/down. They respond quicker than they did when we first got the truck...

The rear wiper motor needed some help as well, it was sluggish, or would not even respond, depending on it's mood.

A quick replacement of the motor, and now the rear wiper works.

Next mods planned are:

Quad Headlight mod, addition of driving lights with full relay control (To operate identical to OEM.), updated stereo system (speakers, adding a small amp and some oomph in the form of a 10" subwoofer), and the removal and rejuvenation of the rear receiver hitch assembly.....

Stay tuned..

PS: If you are actually interested in this thread and seeing more, please let me know. I'll keep it alive.

[This message has been edited by Synthesis (edited 09-23-2011).]

Sounds like your well on your way to having a solid dd, I've got an S- blazer project that I hope to get back to soon.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...2/HTML/068185-4.html

Keep posting your work. Edit Thanks for the info on the alt, that"ll work on mine!!!

Cheers Beers n Gearz. Joe

[This message has been edited by motoracer838 (edited 09-23-2011).]

Damn, that alternator is a monster.

Blown speakers have been replaced. This thing does not have the Bose system, but it does have 6 speakers..
A 4x6 plate in the dash that has a directional tweeter aimed at the windshield on either side... I get great front imaging.

Front doors are 6.5", rear doors I believe are 5.25".

I replaced the door speakers using the Kicker components from my Fiero.
I left the stock tweeters in the dash, but it is obvious they need help..
When I move my amp over to the truck, I'll replace those with the kicker tweeters that match the component set.

Installed a K&N filter today in the stock intake.

Very noticeable difference on the Butt-O-Meter. It actually did improve throttle response and the truck seems to have a little bit more Oomph on acceleration.

Noticing some hesitation on the 1-2 shift when using mid-range throttle. When pressing firmly on the gas though, it shifts solid, but i get a "squeak" when it shifts.

Not sure what could/would cause that, as I am not overly familiar with the 4L60E transmission.

I have an '00 Blazer as well, but mine has two more doors. Mine is silver over black with different wheels (swirly ones). Everything works on it! The Bose stereo is awesome, the memory, heated leather seats are nice in the winter. AC will freeze me out, ABS works like it should, the AutoTrac is nice (only locks the front wheels if the rears slip), sunroof is a nice touch. I wish it had a rear locker... not that I need it, but any 4x4 should have one. It doesn't get the best mileage, but it gets up and goes when I smash the GO pedal. Best $3k I ever spent! I plan to drive it until the wheels fall off (an LS1 swap and a SFA swap w/38s would be nice... maybe one day)

Nice Blazer!
I had a Sonoma of the same vintage. Wish I still had it.

Some things to watch out for...
These engines eat intake manifold gaskets. My 2001 had to have them replaced at ~100K.
There is possibly an electric smog pump mounted under the radiator. It's designed to blow fresh air into the exhaust system when the engine is cold. Helps emissions.
They are bad about sucking in water or collecting condensation, which strips the fins off of the impeller. The broken fins then jam the pump and cause the fuse to blow.
This pump can be programmed out with TunerCat.
Dexcool. It sucks. In addition to the gaskets, I had to replace the radiator and heater core. (The heater core is an all-day job. You have to remove the entire dash. )

The only thing I didn't like about the truck, in general, was the 4L60E tranny. Or at least its programming.
Full throttle was fine, but at part throttle, particularly part throttle acceleration, it always seemed to be in the "wrong" gear. Was like that from day one.

quote Originally posted by SCCA FIERO: I have an '00 Blazer as well, but mine has two more doors. Mine is silver over black with different wheels (swirly ones). Everything works on it! The Bose stereo is awesome, the memory, heated leather seats are nice in the winter. AC will freeze me out, ABS works like it should, the AutoTrac is nice (only locks the front wheels if the rears slip), sunroof is a nice touch. I wish it had a rear locker... not that I need it, but any 4x4 should have one. It doesn't get the best mileage, but it gets up and goes when I smash the GO pedal. Best $3k I ever spent! I plan to drive it until the wheels fall off (an LS1 swap and a SFA swap w/38s would be nice... maybe one day)

I just noticed the photo I posted was the 2 door. We actually have the four door as well.
No sunroof or AutoTrac, and the seats are non-heated non-power cloth. But hey, for us it is perfect.

I don't know if this engine has ever had the intake gaskets replaced, but I do notice that when I start the car, the defrost vent seems to "steam" the window a small amount.
The radiator was supposedly replaced just prior to us getting the truck, and I see signs of it being worked on. The radiator looks new.

That tells me the heater core is sure to follow, and the steam suggests I am right. The entire dash has to come out to replace the heater core. *^(*%^*&*%$)^
(Heh, just noticed Raydar's comments on the heater core... I may see what a shop charges.)

On a note about the 4L60-E Trans. From what I understand the GMC Canyon and Chevy Colorado use that transmission and a lot of the guys on the Colorado forum are swapping out the stock servos for Corvette ones. From what I've read, it appears to not be that difficult of a job and the parts should cost less than $100 for both servos. The thread I linked also has a LOT more info on the 4L60-E, and it seems to transcend vehicle make and model, so hopefully, you should be able to glean some info there.

Hope this helps!

quote Originally posted by Raydar: ........ The heater core is an all-day job. You have to remove the entire dash. .........

As heater cores go, this one is actually very easy. The dash is actually simple to remove. You take out the dash as a complete unit as everything is electrically controlled....no HVAC vac lines. Once you drop the steering column from the dash structure, the dash gets unbolted and pulled out. The hardest part is disconnecting the hoses on the engine side of the firewall. The heater core is easy to get to once you pull the ductwork out of the way. I'd rather do this heater core than just about anything else I've had to deal with.

I have a spare console door that is the wrong color for my 99 w/black interior.
It is grey and still firm, foam inside is not rotted.
Not easy to find them, if interested pay only shipping.
May have two.
PM if interested.

quote Originally posted by partfiero: I am sure you are aware of the antifreeze issues with those.

Only that the DexCool was complete and utter garbage, and I would be better served to flush the system and replace with the green stuff.
Mixing is not an option as it sludges, bad.

The DexCool was highly corrosive and I suspect that is why the radiator had to be replaced. The heater core is sure to follow shortly.

Made a phone call to the shop that replaced the radiator prior to Cindy and I purchasing the truck.

I was told that they flushed the cooling system completely when they replaced the radiator, and that they put new "Any Color" coolant in.

The coolant doesn't look spotless, still some gunk in the overflow bottle, but for the most part it looks clean.

I also wiped the inside of the windshield down with the RainX Window Cleaner pretty thoroughly last night.

I ran the truck until it warmed up, and have not seen any fog on the inside of the windshield since.
May have just been a haze of some kind.
If it returns, I'll have to do the heater core.

I'm very interested in this thread! I love Blazers. I had a '93 S10 Blazer that I loved dearly. I've always wanted a newer ZR-2 model. I'll be watching.

I have a 94 S10 SS that my son has at college. I'll get it back when he's gainfully employed and buys his own wheels. I'm thinking an LS would be good, but we'll see. Keep posting. I'm still reading.

Ive got an 04 s10 extreme blazer and wouldnt wish it on anyone.....brakes once a year all the way around, and im not talking just pads, Im talking rotors, pads and calipers! Ive done 2 alternators (fluke i know) and has a miss that the dealer cannot sort out.....only show 84k. Oh just did both front wheel bearings as they both were toast! Musta been built on a monday or a friday for sure!! lol

Have fun with the new toy
I used to have a 97 2wd Sonoma SLS 5 speed with the 2.2.
Now I have a 96 Sonoma ZR2 but its an automatic.

I always like the body style of these trucks. If you havent yet also checkout S10forum.com.

Did your Fiero's gears get fixed?

quote Originally posted by 2.5: Have fun with the new toy I used to have a 97 2wd Sonoma SLS 5 speed with the 2.2. Now I have a 96 Sonoma ZR2 but its an automatic. I always like the body style of these trucks. If you havent yet also checkout S10forum.com. Did your Fiero's gears get fixed?

Negative on the gears. It needs a transmission.

I've been to both S10forum.com and blazerforum.com...

Lots of good ideas there. That is where I got the alternator upgrade from, although noone had hard data on which vehicles had the correct alt, and I just had to guess.

quote Originally posted by LuckyStrike: Ive got an 04 s10 extreme blazer and wouldnt wish it on anyone.....brakes once a year all the way around, and im not talking just pads, Im talking rotors, pads and calipers! Ive done 2 alternators (fluke i know) and has a miss that the dealer cannot sort out.....only show 84k. Oh just did both front wheel bearings as they both were toast! Musta been built on a monday or a friday for sure!! lol

Your miss could be the same as mine had. Have you repplaced the cap and rotor? And I mean within the last 1000 miles or so. I had to replace the cap and rotor on mine about twice a year. My assumption was that the timing chain needed replaced. What I concluded was happening was that if the the chain were worn and stretched, it would cause the rotor and cap to be out of correct alignment when the spark was thrown, causing the spark to have to jump a wider gap than normal inside of the cap. This cause the cap and rotor to wear out very quickly. It got to the point where I just planned on replacing those every spring and fall. I loved that Blazer, sold it earlier this year as I got a Subaru. My Blazer had a 2" body lift, full poly front and rear (squeaked like hell) and other minor interior and exterior mods. It looked nice, but I love my Subi too much to miss the Blazer.

quote Originally posted by Firefox: As heater cores go, this one is actually very easy.

Thanks. The next time (if there is one) I'll remember to keep telling myself that it's easy.
I guess it's all relative.
I had to remove the right side fender liner (wheel well) too. Since the Blazer seems to sit higher on the frame, that part may not be a necessity.

quote Originally posted by Synthesis: ...I've been to both S10forum.com and blazerforum.com... Lots of good ideas there. That is where I got the alternator upgrade from, although noone had hard data on which vehicles had the correct alt, and I just had to guess.

I forgot to mention S10forum.com. That forum is almost as good as this one, for useful information.
They have a good pictorial for the intake gaskets, and several threads about the #$%#$ smog pump, too.

Tonight I began the amp rack project I have been working on in my head...
No plans, no guides to follow. Just measure, cut, fit, assemble..

The goal is to mount two amplifiers and a 2 Farad capacitor in the back of the truck in a way that hides them from prying eyes and makes it difficult for a more determined person to remove them, as well as to protect them from items being transported.

The passenger side of the cargo area behind the rear seats seems like the perfect place.

The amp rack consists of 3/4" MDF cut and shaped to fit the contours against the side wall and over the wheel hump, with a "cabinet" built to bring the side wall out into the cargo area.
This will enclose the wheel hump.
One of the amplifiers will be mounted inside the cabinet against the back wall of the enclosure, while the other one will mount to the door of the cabinet.

I will get photos of the cabinet when I have completed the door assembly and latching mechanism.

The door will have two key-matched locks to secure it closed and hide it from prying eyes.

Edit: I lied...

Photos tonight cause I want build progress pics.

The top is not built and attached yet. It will be the top piece to cover everything and trim it out, as well as provide a solid latch point for the door.
Here is the rack with the door "closed" in it's "Operational" position.


A view of the cabinet with the door upright. The 4 channel amp will be mounted to the right side wall, the two channel sub amp will be on the door. The Capacitor will also be on the door, closer to the front of the vehicle.
I have to build a hinge plate in the front and then attach a third hinge there in order to strengthen the door.


The door in it's fully opened position. Full access to all amp wiring and equipment, including the grounding distribution block, power distribution block as well as all of the amp crossover settings. Again, a third hinge at the very front will be added.
There will also be a brace added near the front to help enclose the cabinet while still allowing access to the seat handle visible for lowering the seat.

[This message has been edited by Synthesis (edited 10-09-2011).]

More progress...

Added some bracing, the top cover, and added the locks and lock plates to close and latch the cabinet...

Still to do, front bracework in the cabinet, some trimming, and a top trim plate to flush the cabinet into the window, side panels.

I also have to add another hinge in the front.. That is still to come...

No input on the amp rack/storage box? :P

Nice looking. Alot of times thats how I work too, just measure and cut on the fly, maybe use cardboard as a template of sorts. Hey that extra weight on your right rear wheel will be nice in snow and ice .
How will the amps be cooled?

The enclosure isn't entirely sealed, and I am prepping a 12v fan that will turn on when the amps are on.
I may not need to install it though as the amps were behind the seats in my Fiero with Mr. Mike's leather against them for the last two+ years, even during the summer.
They'll have more air flow in this cabinet.

quote Originally posted by Synthesis: More progress...

(OPINION)

Good Job! Camouflage the thing in carpet that matches the cargo area.

Amps are mounted, wires are run except for door speaker wires, capacitor is mounted, and the sub is rocking out using a poorly built sub box I picked up for 10 bucks.

When I get carpet, I'll update photos.

quote Originally posted by Synthesis: Amps are mounted, wires are run except for door speaker wires, capacitor is mounted, and the sub is rocking out using a poorly built sub box I picked up for 10 bucks. When I get carpet, I'll update photos.

*channeling Peter Griffen* NO! */channel*

We want pictures nooooooow... !! LOL

Plan on making a matching sub box somewhere back there too?