OK as some of u may know I restore old Corvettes as part of my job but as much as I know this one has me at my witts end!
I have done all the bench testing on the 68 motor it runs fine parks fine and goes into high speed fine so----the motor is good it was a reman one from zip products they have always been good to me so I trust its fine.

Now with that said, I started ringing out the wires in the harnes wich was built by letric limited and well they all seem to be right were they are suposed to be except the relay wire was fliped in its plug having the ground on wrong side of the three wire plug on the relay the colors are green wich is bottom post, black top right and the other side
black from the switch's center post runs to the left post of the tree on relay .
With everything testing ok wire wise I then tested all the switches and relays and the relay fires also the park solinoid fires in the motor but no motor spin up. I have power at the motor were it should be at the yellow center terminal and at the red terminal but the motor fails to have power running from it from the brown wire coming from the motor can like it should and while bench testing shows power like it should from brown wire I also dont see power at the green wire for terminal one like it should after the relay fires and the blue wire dosent have correct voltage either from switch.

Loose ya yet? I know its confusing but if your framiliar with the 68's they have their own unique wiring for this and its a pain!
so my question is why am I not getting power to my green and blue wires that go to the three terminal contact? in therory it should all work but I get nuthin grrr and yes the overide switch is grounded and turned on to run same with the cut off switch for the wiper door
also because I dont get power to the brown wire I dont get power running to the tach solinoid for the vaccum cutoff switch for the wiper door so I cant test that.

Being that on the bench test I am defeating the internal points in the motor circut could it be possible the control module in the motor be bad and not letting all the parts of the motor circut connect except the solinoid that locks the thing in park?
Im Shure ill figure this out in the morning im just spent but dosent hurt to ask and save some stress!

[This message has been edited by jetsnvettes2000 (edited 02-10-2011).]

Does the boss want it to be original? The reason i ask is because when the wiper motor in my Spitfire died i just went to Gibsons and pulled one out of a Civic and did a little finagleing of the wiper armature to make it fit. Updated, multi-speeds, and more durable. PLUS it looks not much different. Either way, who in their right mind is going to drive a fully restored Corvette in the rain????

rams if it were that simple id pull one of the newer vette ones off the self, the 68 is unique in how its wired and it also controls the vacum cutoff for the wiper door. To put it short u gota use the original motor if u want it to work right or have a pain in the ass with having to operate all the functions of the wiper door manually w the vacum dump switch id rather the boss be able to just turn it on and forget about it if needed ever.
This car will most likely never see rain due to its value but in the slight chance it does i want it working.

Don’t mess with the wiring to much. Those old 60’s Vettes had some unusual, to say the least wiring systems. Be careful, I have a buddy who wanted to sell me that same one, the yellow one. He also had a 63 and a new one in his basement garage under the house. He came down one night to smoke and smelled wire burning. The old analog clock for some reason had shorted out and was SMOKING. He got there just in time and pulled the battery cable.

Can you try to just make your own harness for this? All new wires the right colors? And plug that into the harness without putting it in under the cowl. To see if it is working properly?

I have a friend in Grafton, MA that restores those older corvettes. If it would help I will try to find his number. I haven’t talked to him in years but I think I still have his number in one of my old personal phone books. Will have to look.

Steve

------------------
Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't.
Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

OK...I gotta ask.......

Have you tested the ground with it installed ???

bench tests and installed tests are 2 whole different games, and a bad ground can mess your day and mind in ways ya never thought possible.

quote Originally posted by MidEngineManiac: OK...I gotta ask....... Have you tested the ground with it installed ??? bench tests and installed tests are 2 whole different games, and a bad ground can mess your day and mind in ways ya never thought possible.

Interesting idea, and one that could be solved with a ground strap. If that is your problem.

Steve

------------------
Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't.
Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

yup its grounded in three places plus what makes these 68's diffrent from the other years s the switches and relays cut the grounds instead of the positives like in all the other years, to answer your question of making a test harness yup i just did that later today ill throw it in and give it a try. I called tech suport today and they freely admit that a few of the harnesses they sent out were made wrong so looks like I ended up with one of them grrr plus they think it killed the points in the motor causing my loss of voltage double grr those motors arent cheap! ah the fun of restoring these old things for a livin.......so basically I think this one is solved I am having them send me a replacment harness and ill send the motor back for warrenty and try it again when they get here. Next project till then puttin the skin on the convertible top fun fun!

[This message has been edited by jetsnvettes2000 (edited 02-11-2011).]