Liquid wrench lubricating / rust preventative oil in a spray can.

Can it be sprayed on the backside of body panels of a truck bed, and backsice of the wheel wells to prevent rust and inhibit rust from getting worse? Is there any bad effect of doing this? The stuff sprays really far out of the red tube it comes with and when I had the taillight out of my truck I noticed surface rust all over the side of the rear wheel well fender that no one ever sees. I could easily shoot the Liquid wrench on it thru the tailight hole and from under the truck. The salty winters up here are terror on metals.

If you want an effective rest preventer, try methamphetamine.

Or a double dose of viagra.

Liquid wrench is for helping loosen rusted bolts. Not really sure how effective a rust preventative it would be (but won't hurt anything).

I think WD40 would work better as it penetrates and drives out moisture. Works great on battery posts/cables too to prevent that oxidation from forming.

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My World of Wheels Winners (Click on links below)

3.4L Supercharged 87 GT and Super Duty 4 Indy #163

Chocolate covered coffee beans work great for me.

I know an old guy that only buy's old trucks. He doesn't want to deal with all of the electronics in newer vehicles. He goes south of the rust belt usually buy's them cheap & drives them back north.
He cleans what little rust they may have then applies his version of rust prevention: He dilutes old engine oil with kerosene, puts it in a sprayer & sprays the entire underside of the truck. Then, he finds a dry dusty dirt road & barrels down it until all of the oiled surfaces are covered with dust.

It really makes for a dirty job when they have to be worked on but he has yet to have a rusted out truck.

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86 GT
87 coupe restoration project.

Boeshield T-9 is widely used to protect aircraft structures against corrosion. It leaves a waxy, rather than oily, protective surface film. Like all such materials, it has to be reapplied every couple of years. On the other hand, it is a very good penetrant, so it will creep into and protect very small cracks and crevices. It's also excellent for protecting hand tools and machine tools against rust. Kinda' expensive, but well worth it.

quote Originally posted by WhiteDevil88: If you want an effective rest preventer, try methamphetamine.

WUPS!

I meant RUST...LOL

no, most penetrating oils will dry up pretty quickly.
and, once they dry up - the surface is even MORE prone to rust.

the above mentioned stuff looks like a better idea.
tho - not sure what is wrong with the classic "Rust-Oleum"?

quote Originally posted by Pyrthian: no, most penetrating oils will dry up pretty quickly. and, once they dry up - the surface is even MORE prone to rust. the above mentioned stuff looks like a better idea. tho - not sure what is wrong with the classic "Rust-Oleum"?

Rust oleum is paint, this area is already rusty, I'm trying to slow it down and prevent further spread. ALso I can't get in there and clean it so it can be painted unless I "unweld" some things . ALso I am using the "lubricating oil", not the "penetrating oil"...same prob?.
So you think if I sprayed it every 6 mo it'd be fine?
(Since I had already done it before posting this question)

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 11-02-2010).]

The concept behind spraying rustoleum on rusted parts is to inhibit the rust from further eating away at your parts not from stopping it.

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Chuck
87 Fiero SE

quote Originally posted by kkavmann69: The concept behind spraying rustoleum on rusted parts is to inhibit the rust from further eating away at your parts not from stopping it.

...stopping it...from further eating away at your parts?

The problem with what you are asking is the oil is very runny, and won't leave much protection at all. Will it hurt? No, not unless it interacts badly with something you want to put on later. Will it help? Probably not much. You want something a bit more viscous. And actually, engine oil works quite well. Though the t-9 by far looks like the best option.

Rustoleum is no better (or worse) than any other good quality PAINT. They simply saw a good marketing ploy -- added "rust" as part of the name, and everyone just sat up and "WOW!--a paint that finally stops and prevents rust!!".

There are--- and always have been,--- 1/2 dozen other brands of PAINT just as good as rustoleum--if not better.

[This message has been edited by maryjane (edited 11-02-2010).]

Liquid Wrench can Freeze...

WD40 isn't a good Lube...

Try spay oil or grease, like Synpower for Valvoline

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

I knew a place that used the waxy coating for rust prevention and they would warranty a used car even! They had good luck with what they used and was the most recommended shop in town. I don't know the substance, but it sounds like the T-9

[This message has been edited by jaskispyder (edited 11-02-2010).]

Waxoyl in the UK. Only really any use at all when sprayed on, on the assembly line. It is better than nothing, but remember, rust is simply oxidisation. Most metals will try to return to their original state..oxides. Oxidisation obviously requires the presence of oxygen to work. Thus the only real way to prevent oxidisation is to isolate the metal completely from water and oxygen.
Once the process has started, it is almost impossible to stop it..we can just slow the process down by sealing the metal by painting or coating it.
When I make the gates etc, I always allow a thin coating of rust to start on the metal before I spray it. It gives the paint a better 'grip', and a good paint will then seal the oxidisation and slow it down.
We have a paint here called 'Oxiron Forja', which is specifically for exterior paintwork on steel or iron. It works better than anything else I have found. Those steel gates/doorway I made 4 or 5 years ago were finished using Oxiron Forja, and they are still perfect, with no signs of rust coming through.
You can buy it here as either satin smooth finish, or a texture which resembles fine sandpaper when dry.
I also sealed the new steelwork I did on the Spitfire I almost rebuilt with Oxiron 'Lisa' (smooth) It stood outside in all weathers for over 2 years before I did some more work to it, and when I removed all the sludge and dead leaves etc, the paint was still sound, and there was NO rust at all.
If you can get hold of Oxiron Forja, or its equivalent over there, I would recommend you try it.
Many Spanish people reckon it is just Hammerite, but I have used that too, and the Oxiron beats it by miles
http://translate.google.com...F%2Fwww.oxiron.es%2F
Nick
Nick

[This message has been edited by fierofetish (edited 11-02-2010).]

Thanks all. Being that I can't even get in there with a wire brush to remove loose flaking paint and loose rust I don't think paint will work for me. If I could use paint I suppose I'd use POR15, which seals out oxygen and moisture excellent. At this point since I already sprayed a lubricating oil on once before posting this, paint would probably not stick anyway, nor would the waxy stuff.

If I were to spray a thin motor oil, do you think it would spray out of a regular spray bottle?
Maybe if it was too thick to spray I could bore out the nozzle of a spray bottle? Some 5w30 maybe?

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 11-03-2010).]

It dries out. I had a friend that just puts his used motor oil in a sprayer and uses it inside his doors, rocker panels and backs of panels he could get to. His 69 Charger never got any body rust on it in 30 years. He has it in upper Michigan still....and far as I know, no rust.

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: I had a friend that just puts his used motor oil in a sprayer and uses it inside his doors, rocker panels and backs of panels he could get to. His 69 Charger never got any body rust on it in 30 years. He has it in upper Michigan still....and far as I know, no rust.

Thanks, thats what I am thinking at this point. I don't think I'll use "used" motoroil just because of the smell, but I think I'll get some cheap 5w30 and go that route.

Just dont park it on your nice driveway or garage floor without something to soak up what drips out for a day or two. He just parked his on his gravel part of drive till it stopped dripping.

I was looking around online trying to figure out what the cheapest thing is i can get to use for spraying oil. I found alot of other rust preventative things in case anyone is interested.
But stil am unsure of what to use to spray oil (like 5w30). Too thick for most manual sprayers?

Heres some other options I found, all a somewhat expensive for my taste and many work best before rust starts:

Krown (Canadian)

Amsoil HD protector

Texaco Rustproof Compound L

"OTOH when sprayed on it's VERY liquid and penetrates nicely."

"Another product to look at is Corrosion X HD. This stuff is very tenacious and is difficult to get off."

"TC-11 recently discussed here would penetrate well and exclude oxygen to slow down the rust."

"Caterpillar rust preventitive oil sold in one gallon containers available at any Caterpillar dealer. Part # 1U8801. It sprays on like a liquid dries to a thick impermiable waxy film. It works into the cracks and crevices without clogging drain holes and requires a hot alkali solution to remove."

I have a canister I bought (cant remember where), thats metal with a removable lid. You pour whatever you want, bug spray, oil, week killer, etc in- tighten the lid and use your air compressor to pressurize it. Motor oils not that thick, You can spray it out of a paint gun easily. I actually think he just used like an old Fantastic spray bottle.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 11-10-2010).]

quote Originally posted by 2.5: "Another product to look at is Corrosion X HD. This stuff is very tenacious and is difficult to get off."

Like Boeshield T-9, Corrosion-X is widely used on aircraft. It seems to penetrate nooks and crannies better but does not last as long in place.

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 11-11-2010).]

We always used cosmoline at the machine shop I worked in. You could buy it in varying grades that either left a film or a thick coating.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmoline