My firebird came with limo tint on the windows and I am less than impressed with it so want to peel it off. Getting the film itself off is easy enough, but what is the best solvent for the glue ?

(before anyody askes, it was a crappy home-instalation, and is dark wayyy beyond legal or even common sense. Ya cant see out the side at night in areas with no streetlights. )

I used "Goo Gone" and a razor blade. It worked very well and after I got the glue gone, I cleaned it with some dishwashing soap and wiped it clean with a wet soft cloth. Mine was probably on the window for more than 15 years and sat in a watermelon patch for 11 years. I wish I had thought of it but my wife suggested the Goo Gone.

You have watermelon vines that live for 11 years?? Wow!

[This message has been edited by maryjane (edited 10-29-2010).]

2nd on goo gone and the rest is just elbow grease.

A fabric steamer when you removed the film in the first place would have helped a lot, I had to remove the tint from my mustang (stupid dealership taped the detail sheet to the INSIDE of the window and when remove it peeled a hole in the film).

I saw a tip to use steam to remove the film, and MOST of the adhesive came off with the film.

Might work to soften what's left too. I used a $20 Conair fabric steamer from wally world.

quote Originally posted by maryjane: You have watermelon vines that live for 11 years?? Wow!

You should have seen the tumble weeds around the Fiero--held in place by watermelon vines. I used a chainsaw to get in the driver's door.

Seriously, the area where I found my Fiero is known for watermelons and canteloupes. Particularly the "Rocky Ford" variety of canteloupes. They are unbelieveably delicious. I have about 200 seeds I will replant in Oregon when we move there. Even better than Hempstead melons and canteloupes! I think the real secret is that they steal snow melt water from the Arkansas River as it flows from the mountains and it isn't polluted.

Goo Gone or the spray they sell to remove it. Years ago, I used reducer or laquer thinner and what a friggin mess.

From Gila Films FAQ's, http://www.gilafilms.com/en/Auto-Tint-FAQ.aspx

quote How do I remove the film and the adhesive? Gila brand EZMount adhesive makes film removal easy and clean. Removal is as easy as peeling the film away from the glass. If your film has been installed for more than a year, it may not contain EZMount adhesive. In this case, the easiest way to remove old film is with the Gila FR200 Window Film Adhesive Remover Solution. Or you can loosen the film at the top of the window with a razor blade. Grip the film firmly and pull it from one corner across the window. Adhesive will remain on the glass. Add ammonia as needed to the solution and spray onto the adhesive residue. Rub this mixture into the adhesive to soften. Repeat if necessary until the adhesive turns white and gummy, then shave the adhesive from the glass with a new razor blade. Keep the surface wet until you have removed the adhesive residue. Then thoroughly clean the window with the original soapy water solution and dry with a cloth. Wait at least 24 hours before applying new film to the window.

The "sweat" method is also described but too late for that to be used.

edit: Don't use a razor blade on the rear window if it has defroster wires.

[This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 10-29-2010).]

Maybe brake clean (in the red spray can, its got some kind of funny spelling). It will clean anything, but be careful with what you get it on. Used it once to get spraypaint off a window. sprayed it on and a little bit of a razor it came right off.
Matt

I saw a way to do it using a trash bag on a hot day and spraying it to the tint and letting the heat do it, but they used a liquid that I cant remember what it was...

Easiest way I do it is spray it from the inside with formula 409. Then cover it with a black trash bag (lay the bag over the spray you just sprayed) so that it can't evaporate so quickly. Let it sit in the sun for about an hour. The film and glue should peel off together. If not, let it sit a little longer. If not still, you may have to scrub at the glue a little with a lint free cloth while keeping the glue wet with 409.

This is how I do it.

If you have defroster lines and plan on using the defroster don't use a blade or scraper of any type around them. Even if you're careful chances are you'll cut one of them and your defroster won't work.

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: Goo Gone or the spray they sell to remove it. Years ago, I used reducer or laquer thinner and what a friggin mess.

Goo-Gone or the Goo-Gone Xtreme aerosol. Worked for me. They have it at Advance Auto.

Thaks guys..goo-gone it is since I have a bottle in the garage.

I'm not too woried about the back window, since I ordered a new top, window included, a couple weeks ago and it should be here next week.

Cheap 99 cent a bottle plain old ammonia.

I use a plastic body filler spreader instead of a razor blade. I take a swipe across as long a stroke as I can, wipe it off on a paper towel and go down for the next swipe. What remains, you can usually use like an old terrycloth washrag with more of the remover.

quote Originally posted by FieroFanaticus2: Even if you're careful chances are you'll cut one of them and your defroster won't work.

On most of the defrosters I've seen, if you cut a line, that line alone will not work, but the rest will. Now if it starts in one corner, and zig zags back and forth across the glass, yes one cut, entire thing is dead. Sometimes they have a buss bar on each side, and the lines connect from one side of the glass to the other, so each stripe is seperate from the one next to it. Those will still work on the lines that are not cut if you cut only one line. At one time they made kits to repair such damage.

Kevin

quote Originally posted by Lambo nut: On most of the defrosters I've seen, if you cut a line, that line alone will not work, but the rest will. Now if it starts in one corner, and zig zags back and forth across the glass, yes one cut, entire thing is dead. Sometimes they have a buss bar on each side, and the lines connect from one side of the glass to the other, so each stripe is seperate from the one next to it. Those will still work on the lines that are not cut if you cut only one line. At one time they made kits to repair such damage. Kevin

The kits are in many automotive parts stores http://www.frostfighter.com/prt2100.htm

I used the same conductive paint to repair an on-glass antenna once. Probably could be used to repair a pc circuit trace too but I never tried that.

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: I use a plastic body filler spreader instead of a razor blade. I take a swipe across as long a stroke as I can, wipe it off on a paper towel and go down for the next swipe. What remains, you can usually use like an old terrycloth washrag with more of the remover.

Wait, Your doing WHAT Roger?? Are we still talking about tint removal?? LOL