Hello Ladies and Gentlemen. LONG time no post...life has been keeping me busy between school and well, school. (Not easy being an almost 30-something going back to school).

Anyhow. Here's the deal. My check engine light has been on forever now. I have had it checked out, and my mechanic told me it was a sensor and that nothing could really be done for it. He'd have to get the part from the junk yard because they don't currently make it, and so we couldn't even guarantee it then!

So...I have just been driving around. Car runs fine. There is nothing wrong with it. Just a bad sensor.

Anyhow. Had to go and get an emissions test to renew my license. I knew that because the light was on that I wouldn't pass, but I have to do something. So I go thru and we get the printout. The gentleman running the test said that when I got the printout, we would know what was going on.
Printout says (and I quote):
On Board Diagnostic Result: FAIL
"MIL commanded on"
Check engine light status: Commanded ON
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: P1362

That's it. Nothing else. I called the mechanic again, because he has "reset" it before. It stays off for a bit, but comes back on. And it won't stay off long enough to get from the mechanic to the testing station, sadly.
The light has, in the past, intermittently come off and on. It's more on than off, but has been known to shut off for a period of time (if it would decide to do this sometime in the NEAR future, I would kiss my car. But of course, you can't bargain with the car-I've tried!)

Anyhow. I've done some trolling of the internet and they're saying I'd have to replace the distributor. This can't be it, right? The costs that I've see online run in excess of $700. Did I mention I'm a college student with a less than part time job that barely covers my expenses? (Which is ALWAYS when catastrophic things decide to happen, right?)

I would appreciate any and all help in this matter. I'm taking her back to the mechanic on Thursday so he can run the code and check her out again. But otherwise, I'm screwed. My plates are gonna lapse, and I don't have the money to:
1. Replace the distributor (esp. for just a faulty sensor!)
2. Buy a new/used/whatever vehicle.

Help guys (and gals).

Thanks so much. Glad to be back.

quote Originally posted by Lady Pegasus: My check engine light has been on forever now. The light has, in the past, intermittently come off and on. It's more on than off, but has been known to shut off for a period of time ...

Which is it ?
I used to work at a shop, as I am auto mechanically inclined, but relied on our real certified technicians to oversee my work. A light always on is described as a hard light (by them). Every time the light comes on, a code is stored in the on board computer. Codes can also be cleared and we have done that to get new updated codes which might be more true to the immediate circumstances.
At any rate, go to Auto Zone or a similar auto parts store. They will read your codes for free.
A code reading does not necessarily mean it needs a certain replacement part. One faulty part can cause a chain reaction of sorts which might throw a code anyway, as all parts work in unison.
Get us a code reading. We will see what we can do.

The same Diagnostic Code has been popping up every time it's read: P1362 This is the ONLY code it has ever read since I had the car checked when the light first came on.

The light has been on for about a year and a half now. It has "shut off" about 3 times in that year and a half...but not for very long. It always turns on. But I wanted to mention that it has turned off in the past.

Other info needed?

Like I said, I am not a technician.
I still say let an Auto Zone guy read it and make a suggestion. They have resource information for all vehicles and also experts which they can consult with.

Going to the mechanic's on Thursday so he can try to figure out what is going on. The nice thing about my mechanic is he'll do a little background work and not charge me for it...because he knows I'll leave the car for him to fix.

Sigh...count on me to wait until 5 days before my registration expires...

quote Originally posted by Lady Pegasus: Going to the mechanic's on Thursday so he can try to figure out what is going on. The nice thing about my mechanic is he'll do a little background work and not charge me for it...because he knows I'll leave the car for him to fix.

Hmm.

quote Originally posted by Lady Pegasus: Did I mention I'm a college student with a less than part time job that barely covers my expenses? (Which is ALWAYS when catastrophic things decide to happen, right?)

Auto Zone will do it for free. The mechanic will charge you a mark up on parts. You have nothing to lose by going to Auto Zone.
Hint, ...., pick a time that they are not busy. The help is very helpful if they can be, .

P1362 No Signal In TDC 1 Sensor Circuit
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/honda/

Sounds like a crank position sensor gone bad.
Since P1367 is "No Signal In TDC 2 Sensor Circuit", it sounds like they're redundant sensors and that's why your mechanic said it wouldn't matter.

Depending on how hard it is to change that sensor, you might also be able to have it tuned out buy a performance shop that does Honda dyno tuning. They can selectively delete that sensor from the code so it doesn't show up. I don't know if that would mess up anything else - but they should know.

quote Originally posted by Formula88: P1362 No Signal In TDC 1 Sensor Circuit http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/honda/ Sounds like a crank position sensor gone bad. Since P1367 is "No Signal In TDC 2 Sensor Circuit", it sounds like they're redundant sensors and that's why your mechanic said it wouldn't matter. Depending on how hard it is to change that sensor, you might also be able to have it tuned out buy a performance shop that does Honda dyno tuning. They can selectively delete that sensor from the code so it doesn't show up. I don't know if that would mess up anything else - but they should know.

That. Except the deleting the code bit... not wise.

It's typically built into the distributor on those.... there is a (functionally anyway) crank sensor/cam sensor/TDC sensor integrated into one unit; one can fail and have the engine still run.

TTT to see if anyone else has tips...

Thanks guys.

Your best bet is probably to hit an AutoZone and get them to scan the codes. They'll usually be able to tell you what sensor is the problem, since it does appear to be a sensor problem.

Hopefully someone has a Honda shop manual and can find out how hard that is to change.

I agree see if Autozone can scan for codes or drive it to the shop and tell them you just want the car scanned so you can fix it your self.I allso agree with the above posts about the crank position sensor.On some cars the water pump will leak onto the crank position sensor causeing rust on the sensor connection, or a complete failure due to water dripping on the sensor (wont even start).

My concern is this as well, can i fix it myself? I ask because I took it for the emissions and failed. Don't I have to have it fixed by a "certified" mechanic?

I'll have to re-read the other posts before going to the mechanic so I can be sure to ask him all these things. I'm just going to be pissed if it turns out he was wrong. I had my car in at 200,000 for the timing belt...and when I had money. If he could have fixed it THEN...grr! >:-(

It doesn't need to be a certified mechanic. All you need is to have the inspection redone and if it passes, you're good.
If you have the code reset, how long before it comes back on? Would it be enough time to get it inspected before it came back on?

I can't remember how long it was after the reset it came back on, but it wasn't that long...sadly.

I'm hoping I can just beat it with a wrench and force it into submission. That might work, right? Right? (Hangs head in shame)

Again, thanks for all the input. Can't wait for tomorrow....gulp.

I have the shop manual for the 96 Honda Civic, my little brother has one. From page 11-101:

P1362

Top Dead Center
No Signal

-TDC Sensor
-TDC Sensor Circuit
-ECM/PCM

See page 11-172

11-172:

P1362 - The scan tool indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1362: No signal in the Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor circuit





Get out the multimeter and check the resistance at the 10P connector, as indicated in the first flowchart / scan above, and go from there.

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1984 Fiero SE

quote Originally posted by Lady Pegasus: My concern is this as well, can i fix it myself? I ask because I took it for the emissions and failed. Don't I have to have it fixed by a "certified" mechanic? I'll have to re-read the other posts before going to the mechanic so I can be sure to ask him all these things. I'm just going to be pissed if it turns out he was wrong. I had my car in at 200,000 for the timing belt...and when I had money. If he could have fixed it THEN...grr! >:-(

Is that a twin cam engine? One of the cams can be one tooth off and it can run fine but with the valve timing off wont pass smog test.

My Preludes used to occasionally throw a similar error, but on that car there was a separate Sensor mounted on the opposite cam from the distributor.

I just grabbed them whenever I found one in the junkyard.

I'm not certain about all hondas, but I know on the Prelude it was impossible to incorrectly install a distributor, so anyone could do it. The shaft was keyed a certain way, and the mounting bolts were staggered so it would only go on one way.

Thanks guys! Printed this thread out and taking it with me to the mechanic today.

I really do appreciate all the help you've given!

So yes, it is just the sensor in the distributor. But again, as we've confirmed, I would need to replace the damn thing to pass the emissions.

It has been decided, by me, to do the following:

I'm just going to the junkyard, gonna buy a distributor, slap it on, make sure the light is off/not running any codes and then take the test. Still undecided if I'd leave that distributor in or put my old one back in. There's nothing aside from the sensor wrong with it...I only need to pass the emissions. Car is in great form aside from this one hassle, and I only need her to last me til I graduate and pass my boards (May for Graduation, June/July for boards).

So anyhow. Just wanted to update and thank you, once again, for all the awesome help you guys provided me.

Now...who wants to help put it in?

Hi lady P, I would put in a known good part for you however, I couldn't take off a perfectly good replacement part and install one that is worn, ever. I fix cars for a living and the ultimate goal is to make people happy, happy and smiling. To do anything other then that would be counter productive.

FYI junkyards around here want anywhere from $65 to $350 for a distributor for that car. The ones in Indiana range from $75 to $178. Autozone sells new ones for $350, and remanufactured ones for $250, and they come with warranties.

You can find what's available in junkyards by you and their prices here:

http://www.car-part.com/

quote Originally posted by RWDPLZ: Autozone sells new ones for $350, and remanufactured ones for $250, and they come with warranties.

I bought a new distributor from Auto Zone or my 87 Fiero GT. It came with a lifetime warranty which includes the electronics and all. You might remember that many a Fiero owner's gripe was the distributor module (electronic) failure. I put mine in, hmm, 02 or 03, not one problem with it since.