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John Deere Won't Start by RWDPLZ
Started on: 06-05-2009 08:45 PM
Replies: 15
Last post by: Marvin McInnis on 06-13-2009 12:01 PM
RWDPLZ
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Report this Post06-05-2009 08:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZSend a Private Message to RWDPLZDirect Link to This Post
My father has a John Deere LA165 he bought a couple years ago, that he loves. He was all set to mow the lawn this afternoon, when he calls me downstairs and tells me to bring my toolbox. This can't be good I thought.

Take a set of ratchets outside, and find the mower won't start. Turning the key produces an audible 'click' like a relay, but not turning over or anything. I found a copy of the owner's manual online,

http://www.homedepot.com/ca...798-687a7f81c63e.pdf

and in the troubleshooting section, it says

 
quote


Engine Will Not Start -

Brake pedal not depressed.
Mower is engaged.
Spark plug wire is loose or disconnected.
Improper fuel.
Plugged fuel filter.
Defective safety switch.
Electrical problem - See Electrical Troubleshooting Section



Electrical Troubleshooting Section

 
quote


Starter Does Not Work or Will Not Turn Engine -

Brake pedal is not depressed.
Mower is engaged.
Battery terminals are corroded.
Battery not charged.
Blown fuse.
Fusible Link in starting circuit is blown - See your authorized dealer



Only one of those I can't check is the defective safety switch. I took the switch out of the seat, and it has 3 wires and four terminals going to it, so I'm not sure how to test it. I can't find any electrical diagrams or repair manuals online. I also can't see any obvious fusible link?

I checked the battery voltage and it has 12.4 volts, terminals look fine, and the fuse is fine (checked with continuity tester).

There's also a starter solenoid, that I'm not sure how to test.

Ideas? (I ended up mowing the lawn for him with the old push mower, added gas and it started first pull after two years!)
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greasemonke50613
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Report this Post06-05-2009 08:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for greasemonke50613Send a Private Message to greasemonke50613Direct Link to This Post
try jumping straight 12v to the starter, if it cranks over you'll know that it's good, from there i'd replace the starter relay, then the seat's safety switch (or jump wires until it starts, then the brake pedal safety switch thingy. i'm not sure how it all works, but that's at least a starting point with the starter
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jstricker
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Report this Post06-05-2009 09:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jstrickerSend a Private Message to jstrickerDirect Link to This Post
Put jumpers or a boost pack on it and try again.

I had a JD front deck that if the battery wasn't FULLY charged, it simply wouldn't start. Just clicked like you mentioned. It ended up being a bad starter, high winding resistance. New starter solved the problem for a couple of years until it did it again.

John Stricker
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pontiackid86
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Report this Post06-06-2009 04:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for pontiackid86Send a Private Message to pontiackid86Direct Link to This Post
lol ill tell you how to fix it. take the tractor put it p on a trailer take it to the store and trade it in on a cub caddet......lol kidding dude. you might have a bad solonoid to check this put a piece of metal accorss the 2 posts at the top of the solonoid and if it trys to start and fires up theres your problem.
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Firebird
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Report this Post06-06-2009 09:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FirebirdSend a Private Message to FirebirdDirect Link to This Post
Did you check the oil level? Some engines have an internal switch that will prevent starting if the oil level is too low.
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Marvin McInnis
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Report this Post06-07-2009 11:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Marvin McInnisClick Here to visit Marvin McInnis's HomePageSend a Private Message to Marvin McInnisDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by RWDPLZ:

Turning the key produces an audible 'click' like a relay, but not turning over or anything.



That 'click' probably tells you that all of the start interlock conditions have been satisfied. That significantly narrows the list of likely problems: discharged or defective battery, poor or corroded connections in the battery-to-starter cabling, bad battery/starter cables, bad starter relay/solenoid, or bad starter motor.

You say the battery measures 12.4 volts. Is that open circuit or under load? Measured open circuit, 12.4 volts is low (12.6 volts is nominal), and indicates that the battery may need charging. What voltage do you read at the battery when the key is turned?

Have you tried turning the engine over by had to verify that it's not seized?

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 06-07-2009).]

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sode
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Report this Post06-07-2009 02:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sodeSend a Private Message to sodeDirect Link to This Post
It is most likely your switch, i had the same issue on a JD Gator, i heard the clicking so assumed the switch and relay were working fine but when i bypassed the switch and put power straight through it cranked over
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joesfiero
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Report this Post06-07-2009 10:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for joesfieroSend a Private Message to joesfieroDirect Link to This Post
Nothing runs like a deer.

-Joe
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RWDPLZ
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Report this Post06-09-2009 08:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZSend a Private Message to RWDPLZDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for all the advice so far. I found a manual online for a similar tractor, and it has as test for the seat switch, which this switch fails. So I'm going to try a new one, and go from there. I have until Thursday to get it running, that's usually when he cuts it.

Battery voltage was 12.4V before cranking and under load. Tried jump starting it with the jump box I use with the Fiero, no effect. Oil level is full.
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MordacP
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Report this Post06-10-2009 12:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MordacPSend a Private Message to MordacPDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by joesfiero:

Nothing runs, like a deer.

-Joe


fixed it for you.
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cliffw
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Report this Post06-10-2009 06:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for cliffwSend a Private Message to cliffwDirect Link to This Post
First use of the season ? I am thinking bad battery voltage, bad battery, or bad connections.
 
quote
Originally posted by RWDPLZ:
I found a manual online for a similar tractor, and it has as test for the seat switch, which this switch fails.

You do not need to try a new switch. Just two wires right ? Connecting them together will bypass the seat switch. That is how I disabeled my seat safety switch.
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RWDPLZ
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Report this Post06-10-2009 09:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZSend a Private Message to RWDPLZDirect Link to This Post
Replaced the switch, no joy. Found the 'click' sound is the headlights coming on when turning the key.

BUT I found if I connect the battery straight to the starter, bypassing the starter solenoid, it starts to crank over. So bad solenoid?
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maryjane
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Report this Post06-10-2009 10:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for maryjaneSend a Private Message to maryjaneDirect Link to This Post
see below--dunno how I managed to quote myself....

[This message has been edited by maryjane (edited 06-10-2009).]

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maryjane
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Report this Post06-10-2009 10:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for maryjaneSend a Private Message to maryjaneDirect Link to This Post

maryjane

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Member since Apr 2001
 
quote
Originally posted by maryjane:

IF it is a MTD made JD:

To check safeties, they must be disconnected (one wire disconnected is enough) --not jumped across.
The safetys are in series--meaning any one can be the problem. Seat safety is usually last in line--it only gets voltage if the other switches are in proper position. Following conditions have to be met to start:
Seat switch--must be someone in seat unless brake/clutch is locked down..
Clutch/brake switch--pedal must be depressed to start.
Blade engagement switch--must be disengaged--not supposed to start with blade engaged.
Many models have 2 fuses. One is for elec PTO if applicable. The other is for charge/accessory system. There is normally a large inline circuit protector of some sort, which will kill just about everything.

How are your grounds?



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RWDPLZ
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Report this Post06-12-2009 11:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZSend a Private Message to RWDPLZDirect Link to This Post
Fixed it a few hours ago - The starter solenoid was bad. Original was manufactured 1/08 in India The new one is a different design, made in Mexico, which was the same one I saw installed in the current tractors when I went to order the parts. Installed in about 5 minutes, and started right up.

Next time he has starting issues, I have spare seat switch and brake switch I can use to troubleshoot it. Ended up spending $42.34, a lot cheaper than having someone come out to the house to look at it, repair it, etc.

AM130453 - JD JHP Seat Switch - $15.98
GY20094 - JD JHP Switch Brake - $7.48
AM133094 - JD JHP Kit - $16.48
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Marvin McInnis
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Report this Post06-13-2009 12:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Marvin McInnisClick Here to visit Marvin McInnis's HomePageSend a Private Message to Marvin McInnisDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for following up with the conclusion to this saga.
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