So for all of you that are itchy with fiberglass dust on your forearms and bondo on your eyebrows, I have a question. I've worked with fiberglass a bit before for repairs, but I'm no guru by any means. Here's the thing. I have this plaster casting of this skull mask that I want to make into a fiberglass one. I originally planned to just lay down some matting with resin and hope that it would turn out for the best but I'm just not so sure. I'm missing the knowledge that I need to complete the steps. Please someone fill me in on what procedures work best. What wax, release agents, and gel coat to use and most importantly........WHERE TO FIND IT!? Any help would be sweeeeeeeet!

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[This message has been edited by JazzMan (edited 04-14-2009).]

Much better idea
http://www.classicmask.com/...ng/themaskmaking.htm

[This message has been edited by Jake_Dragon (edited 04-09-2009).]

Are you doing the whole bust or just the face?
if you are doing the whole thing you will have to do it in two pcs.
first question would be do you want to save the origanal part?
if so smooth and wax it several times with mold release wax so that the wax fills in the poors.
then spray or paint on gel coat, I would use chopped strand fiber for somthing like this instead of mat because of the tight contures.
apply a light coat of resign then start dabbing in the strand dont try to paint it in dabb the resign into the fiber I would use a few layers before you try to take it appart.
I would think you are going to use this as a mold if so make it as stiff as you can before you take it appart.
the bigest mistake that most people make is using too much resign and not using a roller to get the air bubbles out after you apply the fibers
the less air the stronger the part as well as a way better part.
you can get supplys just about anywhere but I will tell you for what you are doing I would use polly not epoxy resign the epoxy it way more money and harder to work with. it is made for boats.
when you buy the resign they have waxed and un waxed if you are making a mold but the waxed.
you can do it just take your time and it will turn out just fine.
look on line for How to do fiberglass it will help you.
good luck and let us know how it turns out.
D.

What is a reliable form of a release agent or wax to help me release the fiberglass from the plaster? Is it something I really must order online. To be honest I'm very impatient. Any local stores that might have something useful?

Car wax should work in a pinch. Make sure the surface is really smooth then wax it several times until it looks like glass.

quote Originally posted by Jake_Dragon: Car wax should work in a pinch. Make sure the surface is really smooth then wax it several times until it looks like glass.

Any particular brand or just anything? Will the fiberglass mat wiggle on it when trying to form around it or will it just be the same as any other surface?


P.S. How did you go from recommending pam to car wax?

[This message has been edited by Iron_Mark_2003 (edited 04-14-2009).]

With the wax you'll be fine. Depending on your technique you could slide around a bit with the cooking spray. Personally, I like PVA mold release. They have a little sprayer if you need it. PVA makes separating parts from the mold child's play. When it's just a quick, throw-away, mold I don't even wax it. I just spray on a lot of thin coats of PVA, lay-up my glass, and pull it apart when it's cured. I've molded off painted surfaces, glass, plaster, etc. Then you just wash any remaining PVA off with soapy water.

As for finding something like it locally, you can try the rubber casting style mold release sold in many hobby stores. I think it's really common with model train stuff. I haven't used this yet, but it seems like it should similar to PVA.

If you ever do use PVA be patient with the build-up. Tons of really thin coats work best. It runs really easily if you try to rush the process.

quote Originally posted by Iron_Mark_2003: Any particular brand or just anything? Will the fiberglass mat wiggle on it when trying to form around it or will it just be the same as any other surface? P.S. How did you go from recommending pam to car wax?

The Pam was posted on here a while back, not sure who posted it but they were serious. The wax would be better as the clean up would be better and there would be less chance of the glass sliding off.
I think the Pam would work fine in a pinch but a thick car wax would be a better solution.

PVA is the best! spray it on and it will do no damage to the part you are casting.

quote Originally posted by whodeanie: PVA is the best! spray it on and it will do no damage to the part you are casting.

I'd be totally with that if I had it on hand. I'm not up to ordering it online, so I suppose I'll just try car wax. All in all if it ruins the plaster version of the mask, I can make a new one in 2 hours.