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Electronics Gurus, help identifying parts.. by DRA
Started on: 01-25-2008 11:59 PM
Replies: 11
Last post by: DRA on 01-26-2008 04:58 PM
DRA
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Report this Post01-25-2008 11:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DRAClick Here to visit DRA's HomePageSend a Private Message to DRADirect Link to This Post
Could use some help with a old CryBaby pedal I have laying around. I have no idea what I'm looking at, I've done some sodering, replaced pots and connectors before but this is a little off the beaten path for me.
How do I dentify what is on this board?


I would like to replace all the components, right now I get a nasty sound on the straight through (wah off) and no sound at all with the button pushed to engage the wah effect. Figured I would replace the potentiometer and the switch, but would like to go through the whole thing if possible. Looked on the Dunlop site and their boards look nothing like this one, also note that Dunlop appears nowhere on this pedal. I was traded it for a Small Stone bqack in the early 80's and it looked pretty beat up then but sounded great.

------------------
Dealing with failure is easy: work hard to improve. Success is also easy to handle: you've solved the wrong problem, work hard to improve.

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FieroRumor
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Report this Post01-26-2008 12:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroRumorClick Here to visit FieroRumor's HomePageSend a Private Message to FieroRumorDirect Link to This Post
Looks like a bunch of old resistors... (does your camera have a "macro" setting? it looks like a flower (tulip) It will make for a clearfer closeup shot) a few capacitors, and a relay...
Those are EASY to test with a multimeter... just use the old color code...
(Sorry Ladies, This is actually how they taught us in electronics class! )

Bad
Boys
R@pe
Our
Young
Girls
But
Violet
Goes
Willingly...

Here's a link to how to read 'em... ideally your resistors should test close to the band's values...
(within 10 percent or so)

http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Resistor_Codes

Heh, they pretty much used the same words to remember the code...

For the rest, just google (images) "capacitor", "relay", etc... and look at images of them... match them up, then google "how to test a capacitor" "how to test a relay", etc...

A decent multimeter is not a bad investment!

[This message has been edited by FieroRumor (edited 01-26-2008).]

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Raydar
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Report this Post01-26-2008 12:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarDirect Link to This Post
The resistors (things with stripes) are the least likely things to fail.
If they're not cracked, broken or discolored (overheated) they're probably fine.

Capacitors (the silver tube looking things) in old electronic devices are famous for drying up and changing value.
The transistors (three legged devices) can burn out, too.

If it worked before it was put away, years ago, but didn't when you dragged it back out, I'm guessing it's the capacitors.
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DRA
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Report this Post01-26-2008 12:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DRAClick Here to visit DRA's HomePageSend a Private Message to DRADirect Link to This Post
appreciate the link! I know nothing about what I'm looking at so I didn't know where to start, capacitors, resistors, diodes, etc all foriegn language to me. LOL

Tried to get a better pic but it didn't come out any better, old HP digital camera.

The four silver things look like they are wrapped in plastic and have numbers on them, the smaller two have 5410 w 01+10% printed on them, and one of the larger two have 20-8466-1 and can't make out anything else except 22 +10%. The second larger one doesn't have anything at all on it but appears to be the same as the other.

The two little black things have 5117 printed on them.

The little orange thing has 3.9-15 +K 2

The little brown box on the board has TDK embossed on it and the numbers 5103 in ink.

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DRA
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Report this Post01-26-2008 12:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DRAClick Here to visit DRA's HomePageSend a Private Message to DRADirect Link to This Post

DRA

4543 posts
Member since Oct 1999
 
quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

The resistors (things with stripes) are the least likely things to fail.
If they're not cracked, broken or discolored (overheated) they're probably fine.

Capacitors (the silver tube looking things) in old electronic devices are famous for drying up and changing value.
The transistors (three legged devices) can burn out, too.

If it worked before it was put away, years ago, but didn't when you dragged it back out, I'm guessing it's the capacitors.


So them silver looking dingys are Capacitors and the black dingys are transistors, any idea what the orange thing and the brown looking box thing are?

All this stuff or current equivilant should be available from radio shack shouldn't it?
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Raydar
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Report this Post01-26-2008 01:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by DRA:

appreciate the link! I know nothing about what I'm looking at so I didn't know where to start, capacitors, resistors, diodes, etc all foriegn language to me. LOL

Tried to get a better pic but it didn't come out any better, old HP digital camera.

The four silver things look like they are wrapped in plastic and have numbers on them, the smaller two have 5410 w 01+10% printed on them, and one of the larger two have 20-8466-1 and can't make out anything else except 22 +10%. The second larger one doesn't have anything at all on it but appears to be the same as the other.

The two little black things have 5117 printed on them.

The little orange thing has 3.9-15 +K 2

The little brown box on the board has TDK embossed on it and the numbers 5103 in ink.


The "01" is probably a .01 microfarad capacitor. Microfarads are written as "uf"
The "22" is probably a 22 microfarad capacitor.
(Look very carefully for decimal points. Could be 2.2 or .22. Hard to say.)

The "+10%" is a tolerance. In other words, if it's supposed to be 22 uf, it can be as much as 22 + 2.2 (or 24.2) microfarads.
As long as it's close, it's cool. These aren't that critical.

What *is* critical is the working voltage. It'll usually be stamped on the thing, someplace.
Just replace it with the same value.

The little orange thing is probably a 3.9 microfarad tantalum capacitor.

Be very careful when you replace these things. Many times they are polarity sensitive. They usually have a dot or a black stripe to indicate the positive (+) end. Sometimes they'll have an arrow or a "+" sign, or a combination.

You also may find that the new replacements are physically smaller in size than the parts they are replacing.
Technology has made some improvements in packaging.

The little brown box? I don't have a clue.
Does the thing plug in to the wall? Or does it run on batteries?
If it plugs in to the wall, the box is probably a bridge rectifer. Converts AC to DC.
(I've seen a Cry Baby in a previous life. Can't imagine that it would plug in.)

Radio Shack may be a crap shoot.
They used to have all that stuff. I'm not so sure, any more.
You might have to go to an electronics "parts house".
They'll have better prices than Radio Shack, anyway.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 01-26-2008).]

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Report this Post01-26-2008 01:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroRumorClick Here to visit FieroRumor's HomePageSend a Private Message to FieroRumorDirect Link to This Post
Get a multitester, and test the components, also test the board and wires for continuity (there might be a broken tracing or other unhappy area...)

I miss big electronics like that...

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DRA
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Report this Post01-26-2008 01:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DRAClick Here to visit DRA's HomePageSend a Private Message to DRADirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the info guys.

It runs on a 9volt battery.

I'm bored and as some may know have very little in the entertainment budget so I figured this might be something to play with.

Any other info, suggestion, or nudges in the right direction are appreciated.
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Racing_Master
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Report this Post01-26-2008 01:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Racing_MasterSend a Private Message to Racing_MasterDirect Link to This Post
Here is a little image to help



And from the image, i can guess the wires and power.

Yellow = Power wire
Red = Hot at all times (usualy)
Black = Ground
Blue = maybe switched power.

I cannot tell without actually looking at it, but by the image it looks like its capacitors, resistors, and a relay.
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avengador1
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Report this Post01-26-2008 11:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for avengador1Send a Private Message to avengador1Direct Link to This Post
You forgot the little black things with three legs. Those are transistors. You might even have a diode, but I can't tell because of the blurryness of the picture.

[This message has been edited by avengador1 (edited 01-26-2008).]

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TennT
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Report this Post01-26-2008 12:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TennTSend a Private Message to TennTDirect Link to This Post
The square brown block is a TDK inductor (basically, a coil of wire). You can test it for contiuity and it probably isn't bad. It was manufactured flat for room in the unit.
Here is a really good site for Wah pedals and a guy that knows and repairs.
http://www.analogman.com/kraft.htm
Give it a look. It's in depth but worth the read if you're into it. The TDK part is discussed
at the bottom.
The thing should have had a pot (potentiometer) connected to a rack and pinion rig for
controlling the noise
Old pots can get noisy and fail too.
Let us know how it comes out!
tg

OH, BY THE WAY! Try just jumping out the switch on that thing (that switches it in and out)
Those things aren't the most reliable in the world!
Maybe a very simple fix.

[This message has been edited by TennT (edited 01-26-2008).]

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DRA
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Report this Post01-26-2008 04:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DRAClick Here to visit DRA's HomePageSend a Private Message to DRADirect Link to This Post
Thanks again for the help guys. I'll probably replace the easiest components, the pot and switch and go from there.
I was listening to an old Robin Trower CD, Bridge of Sighs, and got the urge to dig out the wah only to find it dead!

I'll try to post an update when I scrape together some change for parts.

[This message has been edited by DRA (edited 01-26-2008).]

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