I'm asking here cause this is the only place I know of that REALLY knows cars..

We have a '95 LeSabre that all of the sudden, refuses to crank anymore. Drove it to the store, went and got ice cream, came out, and no crank.

The security light on the dash flashes, but doesn't stay lit.

Not sure what the problem could be. Gut reaction was to throw parts at it, so I've put a new starter and a new battery in it. Still no joy.

Thinking it could be the VATS system that has failed for some reason, I built a resistor pack to match the resistance of the key and did the VATS bypass trick. Still no joy on getting it to crank.

I can hear relays clicking in the relay pack on the firewall, but no voltage gets to the starter solenoid.

I'm at a total loss as to what could be wrong with this thing. If I can't get it running tomorrow, then I'm afraid I'm going to have to have it towed to the dealership, which of course, would suck

Anyone have any ideas at all?

Hot wire it.

Like we did in the old days.

You already have the security system disabled, just run a jumper cable from the battery pos. to the starter itself. Just put the pos. terminal of the battery on the starter solenoid.

If it fires up your golden.

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technology is great when it works
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't.
Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

quote Originally posted by 84fiero123: Hot wire it. Like we did in the old days. You already have the security system disabled, just run a jumper cable from the battery pos. to the starter itself. Just put the pos. terminal of the battery on the starter solenoid. If it fires up your golden.

Won't work. The Pass key module will recognize this and disable the injectors. I too tired bypassing the system with the same resistance as the key two days ago, Nada. I sent it to the dealer. The key tumbler needs replacement. Oh I too got bit and bought a starter.

If you have another ignition key, try that. Also, try putting the key in and out of the ignition several times while biasing it to the front / rear. Try unhooking the battery and see if maybe an ECM reset will work.

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Tim
Red 88 Formula Auto 2.8 100K+ Miles



I distrust those people who know so well what God wants them to do, because I notice it always coincides with their own desires.
—Susan B. Anthony

Done all of the above..

Keep in mind, the security light flashes.. it doesn't stay lit like the VATS has been activated..

make sure its in park, turn key on, reach under and cross the starter with a screwdriver..


I have a 94 regal with the 3.8 and vats, sometimes mine just turns the key with no action, I turn the key to on and cross the starter, fires right up and good for another month.. I have a new seloniod sitting in the trunk for the last year, but can never find time to put it on LOL.

Sounds like a bad wire going to the starter.

Good luck!

[This message has been edited by isthiswhereiputausername? (edited 09-17-2006).]

Some info from 1992 Bonneville factory service manual:

Check the key pellet sensing contacts in the ignition key lock cylinder by looking into the key opening. If contacts are damaged, or not silver in color, replace the ignition key lock cylinder.

Check relay center fuse 8 and RH underhood fuse block fuse 4 for open.

Symptom: No crank; security light flashes once per second

Test: Check to see if the pass key decoder module is getting the resistance signal from the key cylinder by doing a resistance test of wires B7(PPL/WHT) and B8(WHT/BLK) at connector C202 which is behind LH side of I/P at base of steering column.

Key out: open circuit
Key in: In the range of 380 to 12.3 K ohms.

If you have an open circuit with the key in, I suppose you could measure the resistance of the pellet in one of your keys, find a resistor of the same value and put it between these two C202 terminals and it should start. If it doesn't, the decoder module (behind top R/H side of I/P) is bad.

Tim

[This message has been edited by FrugalFiero (edited 09-17-2006).]

There are 15 values;
402 Ohms
523 Ohms
681 Ohms
887 Ohms
1130 Ohms
1470 Ohms
1870 Ohms
2370 Ohms
3010 Ohms
3740 Ohms
4750 Ohms
6040 Ohms
7500 Ohms
9530 Ohms
11800 Ohms
Check both sides of the key and see what your resistance is.

We have key #4.. 887 Ohms.

I built a resistor pack of that exact value and wired it into place... still no joy. I can't find the fuse block on the right side. They said it is supposed to be under the glove box, but.. /shrug

quote Originally posted by datacop: We have key #4.. 887 Ohms. I built a resistor pack of that exact value and wired it into place... still no joy. I can't find the fuse block on the right side. They said it is supposed to be under the glove box, but.. /shrug

Dang! You have this figured out better than any of us! If you are putting the resistor between B7 & B8 of C202, then it has to be fuse 4, decoder module, or wiring. Fuse 4 feeds +12V to only the decoder module and PCM so you gotta find that. Shop manual says fuse 4 (20amp) is in the RH underhood fuse block. Fuse 11 is in the I/P fuse block / relay center, and is behind RH side of I/P, top of RH shroud. The picture shows it to be very close to the RH door pillar, next to the PCM. You might have to take off the door pillar trim to see it. I don't think fuse 11 is the problem, because it feeds the "security" light,instrument cluster lights, radio, and key in chime etc. Also, looking at the location of the pass key decoder module, good luck finding that!

Tim

quote Originally posted by datacop: We have key #4.. 887 Ohms. I built a resistor pack of that exact value and wired it into place... still no joy. I can't find the fuse block on the right side. They said it is supposed to be under the glove box, but.. /shrug

I may be wrong, my regal is 30 miles away right now, but I think my fusepanel is located on the drivers side when you open the door, its down at the dash below the pillar only visable when your doors open. (again, I may be wrong as I hadnt looked at the panel in awhile..)

quote Originally posted by isthiswhereiputausername?: I may be wrong, my regal is 30 miles away right now, but I think my fusepanel is located on the drivers side when you open the door, its down at the dash below the pillar only visable when your doors open. (again, I may be wrong as I hadnt looked at the panel in awhile..)

That may be true, but the Regal is a "W" body, and the LeSabre is a "H" body. Different car lines, usually different placement of things like fuse blocks and such.

Tim

There are supposed to be three fuse blocks.. one under the drivers side, one under the passenger side, and one on the firewall in the engine bay.

quote Originally posted by datacop: We have key #4.. 887 Ohms. I built a resistor pack of that exact value and wired it into place... still no joy. I can't find the fuse block on the right side. They said it is supposed to be under the glove box, but.. /shrug

Wow too trippy, the Grand Prix I was working on had three keys and they were all 887 Ohms.

quote Originally posted by datacop: There are supposed to be three fuse blocks.. one under the drivers side, one under the passenger side, and one on the firewall in the engine bay.

Actually there are four fuse blocks. The two that are under the I/P inside the car. The fuse block on the firewall in the engine bay is actually the other two. It is shown in the manual as RH underhood fuse block and LH underhood fuse block. Fuse 4 (20Amp) is supposed to be on the RH underhood fuse block.

Tim