I have done it? Lets see first the square shaped thing on the shaft that your rope start fits on, (see how technical I get) separates lower down the part that had the 2 screws in it comes apart and has the steel balls in it. Once you remove that you can take a mallet and tap the alum housing counter clock wise it is threaded on the shaft. Once that is off you may need a puller but I have done it by just tapping forcefully on the flywheel arround and arround and pulling up at the same time, don't loose the key that is in the shaft. That should work? If you can follow my thinking??? Good Luck!
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11:41 AM
Patrick Member
Posts: 36366 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
Don't take the unit apart that has the steel balls in it. Just put a big pipe wrench on it and unscrew it (regular thread) from the crankshaft. Hold the flywheel by putting a big screwdriver through a couple of the fins. Try not to break any fins off. (If you do, break a fin off the other side to rebalance the flywheel.) The flywheel will then just pop off if you give the end of the crankshaft a rap with a hammer. Don't "mushroom" the end of the crank or else the unit you just unscrewed will not go back on unless you file the end of the crank back down. If you put a piece of wood, or better yet a piece of brass against the crank before you hit it with a hammer, you'll avoid damaging the end of the crank. Do NOT tap the backside of the flywheel to remove it.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-22-2000).]
go get a steering wheel puller and if need be bolts, or threaded rod and nuts, to fit the holes in the flywheel. then you won't risk messing it up. that one is pretty rusted. A steering wheel puller doesn't cost much. Might even can borrow one someplace.
When you unscrew the starter clutch be carefull. You can crack it in what case it's trash. place the wrench so it's against the body and the 2 little ears where the screen screws on. You's get a better bite with the pipe wrench that will leave less/smaller scars.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 03-22-2000).]
If the above methods dont work, take off the Magneto and throw it away. Go to the local lawn mower shop and look in their junk pile until you find a later model "Magnetron" magneto. It doesnt use points but a magnetic trigger built into the magneto. No more points to change ever again.
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08:16 PM
Patrick Member
Posts: 36366 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
I cant believe that this being a Fiero forum, no one has suggested that Tom takes this opportunity to "upgrade" his mower. How about a Mazda rotary for those thick,damp patches of grass. Or hey, why not a TT Northstar and impress all the neighbors. MMMOOOORREEE POOOWWWEEEERRRRR!!! (insert Tim Taylor grunt here)
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01:16 AM
sully5 Member
Posts: 123 From: Lexington,KY,USA Registered: Feb 2000
Tom, while you have the starter clutch off you also may wany to clean the inside of it. with those 2 screws out of it, use a small screwdriver and gently pry the top off. Watch out for the 2 little ball bearings inside, they like to go everywhere. Another trick to getting the flywhell off is to put a large screwdriver between the motor and the flywheel and pry up as you are tapping on the end of the crank. in additon to putting a block of wood or a piece of brass on the end of the crank, you can also start a bolt on the end of the crank. Just tryin to give you some more options.
I could send you my "outlaw" engine from the Kart. Stroker crank, billit rod, L-ring piston, big cam, tuned header and "injected" carb. That would really make the neighbors love you.
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08:46 PM
mrfixit58 Member
Posts: 3330 From: Seffner, Fl, USA Registered: Jul 99
First, you have to remove the recoil bearing. Take a plastic mallet and tap the small ears in the counter-clockwise directions until it spins freely and finish unscrewing it. Remove it from the shaft.
Next, tap the back of the flywheel - smartly - with a steel hammer. Avoid the magnetic pickup area. IF this dosn't work, apply pressure with a steering wheel puller and tap again. It should come off.
Be careful and watch for the aluminum shear key. To reinstall, add a dab of grease to the key before you slide the flywheel back into place.
I thought it need this work since the spark was weak. I just tapped the thing with the ears with a hammer till it loosened. The pull the flywheel off by hand. I replaced the points and condenser and installed everything. New plug. Now I get a hot spark but still no start. I think the carb may be gummed up. I will run some av gas through it. This will clean up all the gunk.
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12:30 AM
mrfixit58 Member
Posts: 3330 From: Seffner, Fl, USA Registered: Jul 99
First, be sure that the shear key was installed correctly. It's easy to do because of it slightly rectangular shape. If it's in side ways, you may be able to install the flywheel but the timing will be off (Not likely but keep it in mind).
Next, take some sandpaper and buff the magnet on the flywheel and the ends of the coil. Check the gap between the two. I use something real technical.... a matchbook cover. The gap is correct and it'll conform to the shape of the flywheel.
Next, if the motor hasn't run in a while, remove the plug and squirt a little oil in the cylindar. Pull the rope a few times to help lube the cylindar and seal the rings.
Lastly, put about a half of a teaspoon of fuel in the sparkplug hole and replace the plug. If the point gap is correct, it should fire rather easily.
Hope this helps, Roy L.
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10:35 AM
Mar 30th, 2000
mrfixit58 Member
Posts: 3330 From: Seffner, Fl, USA Registered: Jul 99