The stage 2 setup involves 2 coolant loops. One goes through the transfer block which is attached to the processor, and then through a larger transfer block which has 4 peltiers connected in parallel attached to it, with the cold side down. On top of this is an identical transfer block, which has coolant circulating through this and then through a radiator. The peltiers cool the processor loop, and heat the radiator loop. The radiator then cools the liquid in that loop.
I hope that makes sense.. I have some diagrams, but they're not very clear.. I can't seem to draw very well.
Posts: 956 From: Omaha, NE, USA Registered: Jan 2000
dimensions are 1.3/4" x 1.3/4", 1" high. The above photo should explain how it works. The fittings I'm using are brass, and the threaded ends are 5/8". I don't know much about fittings, so if there's any more info you need, I'll have to go back to the hardware store and ask..
The block needs to have 2 holes drilled in to one edge, threaded for a 5/8" fitting. A 3rd hole needs to be drilled partway in from the adjacent side, to connect the 2 main holes. This needs to be plugged somehow, probably with a bolt that is sawed off and soldered in place. If you have another suggestion for this, let me know. At least one face of the block needs to be as smooth as possible, so it makes good contact with the processor.
Tom, I'm sure someone else here can explain it in detail, but overclocking a CPU basically means pumping more electricity through it (as well as increasing the multiplier but I can't easily explain that!) which makes it go faster, but also makes it run much hotter.. hot enough to fry it, unless you add more fans or something. Liquid has a larger capacity for heat transfer than air, and if you cool the liquid, it can take even more heat away from the chip.
Increasing the voltage is usually only 1 or 2 volts higher than the rated voltage.. Overclocking can completely fry a system if not done properly. As soon as I can get my hands on a digital camera for a couple days, I'll be taking some photos of my setup so far and make a web page about the project. The page will include links to other liquid cooling sites, as well as overclocking info.
86SE: I'm going to get some smaller brass fittings for the transfer block tomorrow, probably 3/8" threads. The 5/8" ones I have now are perfect for the radiator, but the tubing I'm going to use is 3/8". (fitting is 5/8" thread, 3/8" other end)
[This message has been edited by DaRkLoRD (edited 02-06-2000).]
Posts: 956 From: Omaha, NE, USA Registered: Jan 2000
What kind of pump are you going to use to circulate the coolant through the pipes? I have a friend who tried a similiar project because his computer for making banners was located in the shop's work area. In the summer it gets well over 100 degrees, so he built a small radiator and cut a square hole in the bottom of his computer case. Then mounted a fan on top of the radiator to pull air up into the case. The radiator was hooked to one of those 12v powered coolers by some kind of pump and rubber hoses. He would fill the cooler with ice and water in the morning and plug the cooler in. The ice would last almost all day except when the temp was really high. It must have worked because his computer is still going after 3 years in shop. He had to put a restriction in the coolant lines because the pump he used pumped the water too fast for some reason. Good luck!
I need to check the threads, as one has 6 threads and the other has 8.. (supposedly identical fittings) and I haven't even looked for a bolt yet. I'll let you know what I find out at the hardware store on Monday.
Cooter, I'm not sure what kind of pump I'll use. I was thinking of a garden pump (for a small fountain) but I was told it couldn't handle antifreeze.. too thick. A windshield washer fluid pump is probably expensive, but would work.. any suggestions?
I'll look into it.. thanks.. gotta make sure it won't clog up when antifreeze is used though, or break with the temperatures the coolant will be at.. chip runs pretty hot, but with the stage 2 cooler, I'm hoping to get it below freezing.
I'm not too sure what DaRKLord meant by pumping an extra 1-2 volt into the CPU to overclock it??? Sometimes you might have to bump up the core voltage 0.1 or 0.2 volts to make it run stable, but as near as I can understand overclocking, it's done by either increasing the chip multiplier or increasing the bus speed. Not all chips can be overclocked and you have to have the right motherboard. Regardless of how the overclocking is done, it does increase the temperature. Too much heat can eventually kill the CPU, that's why cooling is important.
Heh.. I don't know much about overclocking.. What batboy said is true, tho I have heard of people bumping up the voltage by more than 1v before. as for the clock multiplier and bus speed.. I don't understand those well enough to explain, except that it's a little switch you gotta flip... (except the Athlons, where you gotta desolder some resistors and move them.. tricky work) I overclocked my P166 to 200MHz, but I just flipped 2 jumpers on the motherboard and it didn't require any extra cooling..
I'm mostly doing this for fun.. I'm not really into overclocking, but there are people who can get amazing speeds out of their chips.. heard of one guy who said he got his K6-2 300 running at 700MHz with a liquid nitrogen cooling system.. that's a bit extreme for me.. I just want to have a liquid cooled computer.
I never was very good with american measurements, (inch. quarter inch.. half inch.. those I get. it's when you start getting into 8ths, 16ths, 32nds, etc that I get confused. and don't even get me started on furlongs and fathoms and chains.. lol..) and I've never done any machine work before.
I just know that I need a block of metal with one face totally flat (so it makes good contact) and a C-shaped channel cut into it, with threads so I can screw in 3/8" brass fittings. The design indicated on the photo above is the best way I can think of to do this. I know something like that will be required when I get the stage 2 transfer blocks (2 of them) as they'll require a lot more surface area inside, which means more channels.
Posts: 15796 From: N. Wilkesboro, NC, USA Registered: Nov 1999
this is kewl, hot rodding a computer oh my. Is it worth going into this much hassel? I know bus speed is around 100mhz if i have that right, because of the new boards. I built my own computer, so its been a while. I spend money on my cars so my computer hobby gets away from me.
That'd be awesome.. email me if there's any more info you need about the work. I got the new 3/8" brass fittings today. After I get the transfer block and pump.. I'll be able to start putting this all together.. fun stuff. now all I need is a digital camera to document the whole thing..
Before I get too sidetracked.. Tom rocks! I gotta hurry up and get a Fiero so I can buy a decklid scoop and other stuff from you.
Guys, Before you get to far with this idea have you thought about condensation and where the moisture may end up. Also the leading problem with connections and connetors is corrosion that typically starts with contaminants often left behind as residue. Even though the condensation may not carry contaminants it will get in where they lie and act as a catylist and a path for them to move if not a path for current to travel. If you truelly want to lower the operating temp of your system think about lowering the ambient (air) temp and reducing the humidity level. For example air conditioners remove moisture from a room by having the condensor located out side of the room. If you built a small insulated room (large enough for your CPU and room to move) around a small window AC unit you could experiment with lower ambient temperatures to see if the performance gain is worth the effort. Note that the colder you go the AC may not be able to control the moisture and you may need to experiment with a de-humidifier and air circulation within the room. The smaller the room the less the AC should also have to work. Large computer centers (even with water cooled systems) must use raised floor environments to control airflow, temperature and humidity. Just my 2 cents. BBT
The stage 1 cooler is intented to achieve around room temp on the chip.
The stage 2 is going to go much colder, and the radiator, heat exchanger, etc will be outside of the case. The processor card itself (celeron) will be completely sealed and insulated, as will all of the tubing, connectors, etc.
Liquid cooling systems and Peltier Devices used in CPU systems MUST NOT be allowed to cause condensates in the system. The condensates, mostly water, will cause corosion of both the CPU socket and surrounding exposed metal.