usually I get a price on parts and the labor is about equal.... so $500 in parts is about $500 in labor. Of course this all depends on hours/repair. but to change the AC compressor is a pain and then to clean the lines, etc... I can see it running about that at a shop. What is their hourly rate?
usually I get a price on parts and the labor is about equal.... so $500 in parts is about $500 in labor. Of course this all depends on hours/repair. but to change the AC compressor is a pain and then to clean the lines, etc... I can see it running about that at a shop. What is their hourly rate?
Since it is a shop sounds OK. Converting to R134A was a good thing. I did it once my compressor failed. Had my rebuilt for two years in the south and east texas heat and still blows cold.
Ask them to flush real good and pull a deep vacuum on the system.
Best wishes, DARKWING, aka, Mike Parker
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05:33 PM
PFF
System Bot
ltlfrari Member
Posts: 5356 From: Wake Forest,NC,USA Registered: Jan 2002
Depends on how your AC has died but if it suffered black death (and there's no way to really tell without at least pulling the orifice tube) then you'll need a new condenser as well, circa $200 plus labor to replace as it cannot be flushed effectively, plus a new compressor to drivers side hose assembly as you cannot flush the muffler in the high side line. Ideally you should also install an in line filter somewhere before the orifice tube as well.
I am doing my 85 after a major compressor failure and black death and I am into it for around $600 now just for parts.
If it died just because the compressor got old and the seals are gone and the system is still 'clean' then it's a lot simpler. I'd ask them what their diagnosis of the problem is first I think.
------------------ Anything I might say is probably worth what you paid for it, so treat it accordingly!
It's been 2 years since I overhauled my A/C system so prices have gone up a little bit since then, however:
Remanufactured HR6 compressor from Factory Air / 4 Seasons, PART NUMBER: 57255 ($160.99) Variable orifice tube, (normal climate) from Factory Air / 4 Seasons, PART NUMBER: 38902 ($20.99) New accumulator, (receiver - dryer), from Factory Air / 4 Seasons, PART NUMBER: 33181 ($29.19) 2 terminal, high pressure cut-off switch from Factory Air / 4 Seasons, (with 2 terminal pigtail) PART NUMBER: 35974 ($27.00) 2 terminal condenser fan switch from Factory Air / 4 Seasons, PART NUMBER: 35969, (*without* 2 terminal pigtail) ($29.79) The parts counter guy at Advance Auto gave me a spare new pigtail Nice guy! (You can get them for approx $10 from Auto Zone..P/N later) 134a o-ring conversion kit from Factory Air / 4 Seasons, PART NUMBER: 26735 ($5.49) New A/C belt from Dayco, PART NUMBER 15370, (probably switch to Dayco, #13780 per a tip in this thread...) ($15.00) 8 ounce bottle of 100 ISO viscosity Ester oil labeled to be approved for R12 to 134a conversion ($7.00) A small bottle of UV dye, a small amount, (< 1oz.), of which is to be added to the Ester oil for leak checking later. ($4.00)
PARTS TOTAL, (excluding A/C flush chemicals) = $299.45
6 cans of 134a refrigerant from Advance Auto = $9.00ea, $54.00 Total
I got my manifold gages and vacuum pump from Harbor Freight when they were both on sale and with a coupon that came to about $125.00
Total cost of parts and supplies approx. : $500.00
Knowing how to overhaul the entire A/C system MYSELF now and never being prey for the overpriced shops again......PRICELESS Oh, and my A/C system is STILL working like new!
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[This message has been edited by randye (edited 08-23-2012).]
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08:22 PM
jscott1 Member
Posts: 21676 From: Houston, TX , USA Registered: Dec 2001
I haven't had much luck with getting my a/c fixed at a shop.
What they quoted you is typical, they will will replace the compressor the drier, orifice tube and flush (maybe) and cross their fingers and hope for the best.
I've tried this twice and both times the a/c lasted for about a month.
The problem is that they don't address the problem that caused the a/c to fail in the first place. You could have black death in your system, (which flushing will never remove all of it) or you could have a leak in a line that is not repaired. The list of things that can go wrong is endless.
My suggestion is to do like Ranye and buy all the tools and equipment and parts and learn how to fix it yourself. In the long run it will be cheaper and last a whole long longer.
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09:29 PM
ltlfrari Member
Posts: 5356 From: Wake Forest,NC,USA Registered: Jan 2002
I couldn't even find a shop that would touch my car so yo are one up on me in that area at least. As Randye said, the best solution is to buy the parts and equipment and learn to do it yourself. I even bought a Crimping tool so I can make up my own hoses! Cleanliness comes before Godliness when it comes to AC though!
------------------ Anything I might say is probably worth what you paid for it, so treat it accordingly!
Even the best hoses do it over time. Like radiator hoses they rot from the inside out. Best thing to do is do new liquid lines some time when you do an A/C repair. If you can't find the OE lines, there are A/C companies who can use the existing connections and fabricate new hose. I have had to do this when working on older cars.
Hope to see you at RUCKUS. I have retired to east Texas, Flint area.
Black Death ? The deteriation of the inside of the hoses contaminating the system ? What causes it ? Are there better hoses ?
The term "Black Death" in an A/C system refers to the compressor seals breaking down, coming apart and being distributed throughout the entire A/C system. Once this "gunk" is loose in the system it inevitably finds it's way to the orifice tube where it blocks off the inlet screen, the orifice in the tube , or both. When that happens the entire high pressure side of the A/C system is effectively "plugged" and the whole shebang stops working.
Photo of partially blocked orifice tube :
This one was actually destroyed by someone using a commercial "leak sealant" added to the system but "Black Death" looks very much the same, just usually more of the "gunk" built up on the screen.
NOTE: the "leak seal" crapola sold to add to your A/C system will NOT fix your A/C system !!
What a new clean orfice tube looks like:
...
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[This message has been edited by randye (edited 08-24-2012).]
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09:06 PM
TopNotch Member
Posts: 3537 From: Lawrenceville, GA USA Registered: Feb 2009
Originally posted by Fiero Tom: Replacing the A/C compressor, Drier/Accumulator and Orifice and flush and refill.
That can be done by yourself for a lot less. I just did it to my 86 SE. The AC is nice and cold now. The toughest part is the top bolt on the pulley side of the compressor. I got mine with a "stubby" socket wrench from below. I had replaced the catalytic converter previously, and the new one was held in with clamps, so I removed it for better access. I also replaced the cycling switch on the accumulator with a new one pre-adjusted for R134a, rather than trying to adjust the old one.
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09:50 PM
ltlfrari Member
Posts: 5356 From: Wake Forest,NC,USA Registered: Jan 2002
This is so bad the compressor won't even generate a high side pressure more than a few PSI over static now!
Tools I use for a/c work:
The center tool is a ratchet I cut and welded so I could get it onto the top compressor bolt. The one on the right just slips over the handle and gives me some leverage while clearing the rear window.
The one on the left goes between the crank pulley and the compressor pulley, turn the nut to spread the ends and it tensions the belt. tighten up the compressor bolts then loosen and remove. Much easier than trying to keep it all tensioned with a pry bar or something while to tighten the bolts, a technique that seems to require three hands!
------------------ Anything I might say is probably worth what you paid for it, so treat it accordingly!
The center tool is a ratchet I cut and welded so I could get it onto the top compressor bolt. The one on the right just slips over the handle and gives me some leverage while clearing the rear window.
Someone really needs to sell a tool like that ratchet. First time I replaced a compressor I was cursing GM as I couldn't imagine how they expected anyone to get a wrench on that bolt.
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10:30 PM
PFF
System Bot
Aug 25th, 2012
1MohrFiero Member
Posts: 4363 From: Paducah, Ky Registered: Apr 2003
Someone really needs to sell a tool like that ratchet. First time I replaced a compressor I was cursing GM as I couldn't imagine how they expected anyone to get a wrench on that bolt.
Yeah, I got a nice scar and seven stitches when the wrench slipped trying to tighten that bolt once!
