Just wondering. Had an olds aroura come into the shop and its engine looked like a mini northstar. I found I can pick up one of these engines for about 350 bucks running. With a proper performance rebuild, these little 4L engines may be able to pack a serious punch.
So am I not the first to think this? Also I have no clue what their tone is with a free flowing exhaust.
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05:24 PM
PFF
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Pete Matos Member
Posts: 2291 From: Port St. Lucie, Florida Registered: Jan 2010
If you got a deal on one I guess... otherwise it's the same amount of work as for a full Northstar but 50 less HP. I would assume any of the N* stuff would work on it though... cams and such.
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07:35 PM
Feb 4th, 2012
Kitskaboodle Member
Posts: 3232 From: San Jose, Ca. Registered: Nov 2004
I was originally going to go with the Aurora in mine but I really wanted a 6 speed, so the f40, they don't match but are close. but if you wanted to do a 5 speed option on it I think it would be a fun little car. the biggest drawback would be the price in some areas they are just as bad as the 4.9. But in my area I can get them for literally half the price. Something about that Cadillac name that drives that price WAY up, because the auroras are harder to find than the 4.9's but cost half as much for half the mileage. But in some areas Aurora motors are like gold. I'm sure there are some 4.9 purist who will chime in and say "why do that when you can get a 4.9 for X amount of dollars and its the same work?" but do what you want to do on this. I think the Aurora is a great motor for anyone who wants to put the time into it.
My stepmom has a 2000 Aurora with the 4.0 Aurora Northstar. Lovely motor, gorgeous sound, and pretty decent mileage for being in a big ol' boat. I'd love to see how well it'll make a Fiero move, that's for sure.
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10:13 AM
Zac88GT Member
Posts: 1026 From: Victoria BC Registered: Nov 2004
I was originally going to go with the Aurora in mine but I really wanted a 6 speed, so the f40, they don't match but are close. but if you wanted to do a 5 speed option on it I think it would be a fun little car. the biggest drawback would be the price in some areas they are just as bad as the 4.9. But in my area I can get them for literally half the price. Something about that Cadillac name that drives that price WAY up, because the auroras are harder to find than the 4.9's but cost half as much for half the mileage. But in some areas Aurora motors are like gold. I'm sure there are some 4.9 purist who will chime in and say "why do that when you can get a 4.9 for X amount of dollars and its the same work?" but do what you want to do on this. I think the Aurora is a great motor for anyone who wants to put the time into it.
The 4.9 is a pushrod engine and has 50 less hp than the Aurora engine. The regular northstar is a 4.6L. If you can get one super cheap then why not.
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11:17 AM
Racing_Master Member
Posts: 1460 From: Hooksett, NH, USA Registered: Nov 2007
Thanks for all the replies! I saw a Induvidual Runner Intake on the 4.0 in that video... is that custom or for sale somewhere? Also, considering the 4.0 and the N* are close to the same engine, would the intake parts be swappable?
I rather a lower displacement engine vs a higher one, because I like to build little and high spinning stuff vs big and torquey engines. The Aurora V8 is nice and quiet in the Aurora, however in a Fiero I can tell it would get pretty loud and nasty.
My idea to build one up consists of:
Forged Pistons Aluminum Connecting Rods Lightweight Knife Edged Crank Triple High Pressure Valve Springs Higher Lift + Ramp Rate Camshafts Induvidual Runner Intake Adjustable Cam Sprockets Shaved, Ported, And Polished Heads Small (5PSI) Intercooled Centrifugal Supercharger around where the PS Pump would be 180 Degree Headers
^ That there, I think would squeeze some serious power out of the 4.0L, and if it uses bucket tappets, I could run mechanical bucket tappets and increase its redline to around 8-9k.
Theoretically, the more material in the block in the 4.0 vs the 4.6 N*, would mean the block is stronger and can widthstand higher cylinder pressures, correct?
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03:26 PM
Jim_Martin29 Member
Posts: 702 From: Marina, California, USA Registered: Jun 2010
I did not know that! This is turning out to be very interesting. These engines appear to be nice high performance 8s in a grandma car. I am starting to like this engine more and more. if I get enough "me" money, I may buy one for research. I may even build one up, they are cheap enough!
They are cheap to acquire, however not so cheap to rebuild, let alone modify. There are a dozen or so Northstar or Aurora builds here on PFF that will take you through the trials and tribulations of going this route... just do a search and you'll get an eyeful. A common theme among most N*/Aurora threads is that the junk yard engines are usually there for an expensive reason. I know this first-hand. Plan on spending between $5000 to $8000 on everything you'll need to rebuild, install, plumb, connect and control the engine.
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10:10 PM
Feb 5th, 2012
Racing_Master Member
Posts: 1460 From: Hooksett, NH, USA Registered: Nov 2007
They are cheap to acquire, however not so cheap to rebuild, let alone modify. There are a dozen or so Northstar or Aurora builds here on PFF that will take you through the trials and tribulations of going this route... just do a search and you'll get an eyeful. A common theme among most N*/Aurora threads is that the junk yard engines are usually there for an expensive reason. I know this first-hand. Plan on spending between $5000 to $8000 on everything you'll need to rebuild, install, plumb, connect and control the engine.
the ones I see around here state: "GOOD ENGINE - 6 MO WARRANTY" and stuff like that with a $450 price tag. So for a direct swap no rebuild (not a good idea) it would be pretty cheap for me. I also plan on wiring up a megasquirt system, and using steel braided flexible coolant hoses to plumb the cooling system. I can aluminum weld my own intake setup for it, and build all my brackets myself. I can even get it mostly rebuilt without the need of a machinist, however the line bore and re-sleeve would require a machine shop. I was expecting a total engine cost of 5000-8000, depending on what I can find. With a fancy supercharger setup I was expecting up to 10k for the engine setup.
A good question I have would be if it bolts up to a Getrag or similar transmission... I was CONSIDERING F40 however I know that would require even more fabrication. I am planning this engine for use in my DD Fiero, to give it some more "pep" and to keep it unique. I was planning on a MILD performance build (Keep it streetable), without going too crazy on price. I work in a shop that I can do the whole engine build in, that has most of the tools. I can even run over to other shops or machine shops and borrow their tools because I am a certified technician and we got a little network, to keep my price down.
my biggest expense in this route I can see is custom camshafts, customized crankshaft... I think you can knife edge a stock crank and make it a bit lighter. if not I'll have to get a forged one. The connecting rods, basically all the engine components I cannot make myself without super specialized machines. if I run a supercharged route, it would be the supercharger that would kill me price wise. However exhaust tubing, mufflers, plate steel, that stuff will be nice and cheap :P.
I would be building the engine as a side project for a backup when my DD Fiero's engine decides it hates life, and see whatever comes first. That engine's completion or my fiero's stock engine's suicide.
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03:45 PM
olejoedad Member
Posts: 19989 From: Back home again in Indiana Registered: May 2004
If you plan on rebuilding it I wouldn't waste your time with the 4.0. Once you crack open the engine (4.0 or 4.6) it will cost you a ton, especially if you're buying custom aftermarket parts and you'll only be further behind with the 4.0. The only time I would recommend the 4.0 over the 4.6 is if you're going to leave it stock, don't care about the 50hp less, and if you got it for almost free.
If you do rebuild it the stock cranks are really strong and I would stay away from aluminum connecting rods. Just use the stock ones or eagle H beams. Also, the cylinder liners are very high quality and can be bored so don't sleeve it.
If all you want is an 8K redline then get a 4.6 for a little more money and throw some cams and valvesprings at it. We went with 288 or 300 cams (can't remember) from CHRFab with valvesprings on a stock 2001 4.6L and rev it to 7500-7800 with megasquirt.