So the wife got an 84 with the duke in it, I subsequently blew up the duke (sorry way too use to my Mustang to be driving her car, got into it with a Mercedes and well duke went boom and a rod is knocking) so the duke MAY get a rebuild as she really likes the car.

Few questions on this,

1) what are common "big ticket" things I should look at before doing a rebuild, such as area's of rot or such that would make it better to just buy her another Fiero

2) any suggestions on rebuild kits (as I know all are not created equal)

3) I'm a Fiero NOOB!! Any general advise or words of wisdom will be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks, and you'll probably see more of me, she seems to be taking a liking to the car, so if it's not shot (see #1) it will likely get a full resto!

Welcome to the forum. You came to the right place for advise for sure. There are plenty of people here who will chime in with tons of good information. If the body and frame are solid you may consider a swap to a different engine. The 3800 motors are pretty popular as well as small block chevy, cadilac northstars and 4.9's. The sky is the limit as long as your wallet can handle it! LOL

Dukes are plentyfull enough to replace it if need be. i replaced one in my IMSA last summer and only paied about $125 for a running low miles engine. Welcome to the forum.

And BTW next time just let the Mercedes go,Racing with a duke is pretty much a guaranteed loss. I would know my 84 gets out accelerated by Geo metros.

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Better to be judged by twelve than carried by six.
(88 formula 3400SFI turbo) snailin all day
(84 IMSA) garage queen
(84 base) big orange firecracker
(06 solstice) my vert Fiero

Wow, that was FAST for replies, I like this place already!!

I know racing with a 4 is a bad idea, the Fiero is surprisingly sporty and well I forgot it was a 4!!

I have a spare motor here in case I need the block or parts, but she likes the car enough that I'm going to just do a rebuild, have the machine shop clean everything up and make sure it will last her a while, As for a swap, well if it was my car it would happen, however she likes the sporty style of the fiero, but doesn't like a lot of power, so the 4 banger fiero is a great match for her!!

quote Originally posted by Jojo22: Wow, that was FAST for replies, I like this place already!! I know racing with a 4 is a bad idea, the Fiero is surprisingly sporty and well I forgot it was a 4!! I have a spare motor here in case I need the block or parts, but she likes the car enough that I'm going to just do a rebuild, have the machine shop clean everything up and make sure it will last her a while, As for a swap, well if it was my car it would happen, however she likes the sporty style of the fiero, but doesn't like a lot of power, so the 4 banger fiero is a great match for her!!

well one place to check for if its worth redoing it is for rust. In the trunk area you can pull up the carpet and see if your trunk corners are rusted out if they are its not really worh rebuilding but replacing the car. (depending on how bad it is) You other option is what donnie said. Engine swap it. I will put in my word for a 3400SFI turbo. I have that in my 88 and it is stupid retarded fast....

too many swappers on this site!

I think a rebuild is a great way to go....just know that you could drop in another Duke for less than a rebuild....unless you really like the work.

WELCOME hope you enjoy your stay!

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1987 Black GT with BIG plans

It's not a matter of like, it's more of I'm a OCD perfectionist type, and if I drop the motor and put another one in, it better run for 100K (the car has 190K on it now) so if I build the motor, I know it's new I know it's right and I know that I won't be redoing it in 2-3 years!

I have another running duke sitting by the car right now in case I need parts, I COULD swap it over and get it running, but I have no idea how the engine was treated and well I'm not easy on them, so a nice fresh one would work out better...LOL

quote Originally posted by Jojo22: It's not a matter of like, it's more of I'm a OCD perfectionist type, and if I drop the motor and put another one in, it better run for 100K (the car has 190K on it now) so if I build the motor, I know it's new I know it's right and I know that I won't be redoing it in 2-3 years! I have another running duke sitting by the car right now in case I need parts, I COULD swap it over and get it running, but I have no idea how the engine was treated and well I'm not easy on them, so a nice fresh one would work out better...LOL

In THAT case, there is other stuff to consider on the car.....most of which can all be taken care of by the good folks on this site and the various suppliers. Just about everything is fixable........... I hope you take care of your disorder and also build a long-term car!

Welcome to the forums

I too am a noob, but I have been to a couple of "motor drops" to see the process.
The common problem was rusted cradle bolts or "inside the frame" spinning nuts
Another point of concern was rust like mentioned above, also cradle and front end
Check bushing and ball joints both front and rear

These issues are not the end of the world and not grounds for ditching the car
You sound like a gear head so I know you are going to love it

Here is the thing you should know....you are not dealing with a normal frame....so when it comes to structural damage you have to look in different places.....especially on the inside of the rear tire up high there where you see the rust...

Guess as soon as it warms up I'll be ripping that trunk carpeting out and invertigating it a bit.

If all checks out, motor will be rebuilt with some mild machining, then on to suspenssion. Which to tackle first, front or rear. Most of me says front as that is where a lot of steering issues will be buttoned up (steers and rides nice CONSIDERING the 190K on the clock), but an itty bitty portion of me is saying do the back first it's holding all the weight and will likely be more prone to wear?? So which is it guys front or back first??

Also along with he motor rebuild, any bushings that are removed will be replaced (including the cradles as they will likely get FUBAR'd when we torch out the front bolts, yeah even the BFH didn't help, nor did the grinder, or sawzall..LOL..fire is on it's way for those bad boys), a new clutch is obvious, and possibly a rebuild on the TB, do these things need new WP, or the like very often, any other odds ends I should plan on having there for this job?

hummmm..

shift cables? by 190K they should have already been replaced or shot. How are the seals/bearings on the halfshafts? Mine leaked. dew wipes?

just free associating here.....

Welcome to the madness

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http://www.tylerstoy.com

So I'll grab a shift cable (I assume TFS has them??) and check the seals while I'm in there!

you might try here.

http://rodneydickman.com/ca...g/index.php?cPath=57

Thanks man, are any of those interchangeable with the 4 cyl.?? Being new I have no idea what will and will not swap over? Or do i need the Isuzu cable?? And if so why an Isuzu, kinda seems odd!!

Not being a wise guy, just trying to learn!

If you have a 5-speed stick shift in your 84, it is an Isuzu. GM got the tranny from Isuzu.

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 03-11-2011).]

Cool thanks!!

pull on the trunk carpet on the drivers side of the trunk, look at wheel well metal under the carpet. it takes half a minute to do this. if a rust hole is there in the metal bigger than your fist you have a problem. small dime and quarter sized holes can be filled in and repaired. the right side has a blower motor under the carpet. but you can still look there too. next look at the engine cradle for heavy rust. this cradle can be raplaced. post on the mall here if you need one. last but very inportent is look at your coolant tubes for any pintching or crushed tubes.they run on each side under the car.they run from the raideator to the engine. check out fierostore.com for new and rebuilt parts. good luck with your new toy. p.s. WECOME TO THE FORUM.

84's came with 3 diffrent types of transmissions the 3 speed auto the standerd 4 speed manual and there was an econo type manual trans with closer gearing... if you have the econo trans your pretty much on your way to a new fiero if you sell it but its a very rare transmission.

quote Originally posted by pontiackid86: 84's came with 3 diffrent types of transmissions the 3 speed auto the standerd 4 speed manual and there was an econo type manual trans with closer gearing... if you have the econo trans your pretty much on your way to a new fiero if you sell it but its a very rare transmission.

So am I wrong about a 5 speed in '84? Were they all 4 speed Muncie?

So where/how do I figure out which 4 speed is in it??

*edit* also will the Isuzu cable fit each four speed or do I need to fid a different cable depending on the trans??

[This message has been edited by Jojo22 (edited 03-12-2011).]

Under the hood on the driver's fender well should be a sticker with a bunch of number codes.....groups of 3 characters....

Manual transmission gear ratios
Year Style Code Axle 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th rev.

1984 econo 4 speed MY8 3.32 3.53 1.95 1.24 0.73 -- 3.42
1984 perf 4 speed M19 4.10 3.53 1.95 1.24 0.81 -- 3.42

So you have to look for MY8 or M19.

Never mind about the Isuzu....it started in 1985. You want 4 speed cables unless somebody put a 5 speed in your car!

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 03-12-2011).]

Well we have the Econo 4 speed, also pictures of trunk rust loading to PB as I type, it's pretty bad, but just on the one panel, is there no one that makes a weld in replacement?? The rest looks like it could have came off the line yesterday!

quote Originally posted by Gall757: So am I wrong about a 5 speed in '84? Were they all 4 speed Muncie?

Yes the 4 speed dident come in the 4 cylinders until i think it was late 85 or 86. Funny thing was the 4 cylinder had a 5 speed before the V6. But as far as manual transmissions go there is quite a few. 2, 4speed muncy's with the 2 different gearing (stranded and econo). The V6 4 speed built with a stronger case. The isuzu 5 speed which was only offed with the 4 cylinder, And the getrag 5 speed.

[This message has been edited by pontiackid86 (edited 03-12-2011).]

Pretty much the same on each side

quote Originally posted by Jojo22: Well we have the Econo 4 speed, also pictures of trunk rust loading to PB as I type, it's pretty bad, but just on the one panel, is there no one that makes a weld in replacement?? The rest looks like it could have came off the line yesterday!

You could weld it but the trunk rust is a sign that there could very well be upper frame rail rust. as thats where they run through. But if you have that MY8 econo transmission selling that will get you well on your way to a purchase of a new fiero. Most people on here buy them and put there internals into the V6 4 speed transmission case. the problem you get with the 84 4 speeds is there case wasn't built as strong as the later years.

So a total part our of this car would get me a new Fiero?? It's a shame cause every other piece of metal I see is factory black nice and shiny!!

It very well could. but there are guys that have welded in plated there. It all depends on how rusted your upper frame rails are. But that rust is a good sign of things to come with the frame rails. Your key here is that MY8 trans. You might have to sit on it a while until you find someone looking for one. (I'v been sitting on a getrag for a while now) But people will pay quite a premium for one of those MY8's as there the rarest transmission ever put into a Fiero being it was an 84 only thing. Problem you get with parting a car out is the waiting game. But parting it out as well as adding a couple hundred Bucks could get you a nice GT or Se or somthing like that. I bought a 4 speed 86 GT running and driving needing a new fan switch for $1200. depemds on your area though in PA if you want a Fiero you can find a Fiero cheap. but other parts of the country there hard to come by.

[This message has been edited by pontiackid86 (edited 03-12-2011).]

So what is a fair asking price for the tranny then? Seems odd that the tranny is worth almost a new car?

quote Originally posted by Jojo22: So what is a fair asking price for the tranny then? Seems odd that the tranny is worth almost a new car?

I'm saying a new fiero around where i live. $500-$800 fieros are plentyfull in my neck of the woods. I Dont really have an answer on the price of the transmission though. My IMSA was equipped with one but the P/O took it out and replaced it with an isuzu. Try doing a search in the mall for MY8 transmissions that have sold recently. I know there's a few. That should give you a good idea on what to ask for it.

[This message has been edited by pontiackid86 (edited 03-12-2011).]

Thanks

quote Originally posted by Jojo22: Also how hard (where is a write up) is it to tear it down far enough to check the frame rails?

1. Jack up the back of the car
2. place the car on suitable jack stands
3. remove the rear tires
4. Remove the inner wheel wells
5. Shine a flashlight

I would for sure check on the upper frame rails before making a decision one way or the other on how to move forward.. either with a fix of this car.. or a part and scrap.

quote Originally posted by datacop: 1. Jack up the back of the car 2. place the car on suitable jack stands 3. remove the rear tires 4. Remove the inner wheel wells 5. Shine a flashlight I would for sure check on the upper frame rails before making a decision one way or the other on how to move forward.. either with a fix of this car.. or a part and scrap.

Exactley its not to hard. Your going to need (after the wheels are off) a 7MM socket phillips head driver and whatever you want to use to use to pull those pesky little plastic push rivets. (i hate thoes things.. might i sugest a torch.... No dont do that ).

Scrap it is, the upper rail is 2 pieces of metal hanging down with nothing across the bottom!!

Anyone need parts for an 84?? It had no AC so I have the vents that appear to be popular, also the brake and clutch master cylinders look to be recently replaced as wall as what appears to be a new washer resivor and motor!!

Also have an extra running duke for sale 100 bucks plus the ride

You could go find a southern frame and transfer the rest over.....

Carver says he is crushing frames in New Mexico because nobody wants them.

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 03-12-2011).]