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Is this a good "plan of attack" to put trueleo headers on outlawfiero17's car by 87antuzzi
Started on: 06-04-2010 03:47 PM
Replies: 7
Last post by: Blacktree on 06-05-2010 09:44 AM
87antuzzi
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Report this Post06-04-2010 03:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87antuzziSend a Private Message to 87antuzziDirect Link to This Post
Outlawfiero17 is on his way up to my house because we are installing trueleo headers on his car. Ive never installed truleo headers before. So here is my plan of attack
.
Remove trunk side manifold and coffee can that is mounted on truck.
Remove dogbone
Remove trunk side cradle bolts
Remove strut tower nuts
attach lift to trunk latch.
Lift body about 4 inches watching all lines and clearance.
Replace rear header hoping to god that none of the bolts break.
.
OR PLAN # 2.
Remove upper intake
Remove fuel rail
Remove middle intake
Remove rear valve cover exposing the rear manifold
.
OR PLAN # 3.
Undo dogbone
Undo front engine shock absorber mount
Back off the nuts on the other 2 engine mounts
pry engine back with 2x4 or 4x4.
replace rear manifold..
...........................................
If a bolt snaps off it looks like plan 1
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Doug85GT
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Report this Post06-04-2010 03:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Doug85GTSend a Private Message to Doug85GTDirect Link to This Post
I am not familiar with these headers. Is this on a stock 2.8?

If it is on a stock 2.8, then you don't need to remove all of that stuff. Just disconnect the Y pipe and take the rear manifold off with the car on the ground. Then put it on jack stands and remove the front manifold.
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Blacktree
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Report this Post06-04-2010 03:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeDirect Link to This Post
I installed my Trueleo headers when the engine was out. So I can't offer any advice on that.

However, you will need to detach the coolant crossover pipe and the dipstick tube at the top (near the valve cover) and push them out of the way. You may also need to detach the top A/C bracket from the cyl head and push it out a little.

Oh, and a piece of advice regarding the ignition coil: if you haven't relocated it yet, you should after installing the Trueleo headers. The exhaust heat shields don't fit over the Trueleo Y-pipe. You can install the coil heat shield with some longer bolts and spacers. But in my experience, the coil heat shield by itself was not enough to keep the coil from overheating.
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87antuzzi
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Report this Post06-04-2010 04:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87antuzziSend a Private Message to 87antuzziDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the info black tree.
Doug. If it was that easy I would love life.These are for the 2.8 and they are a long tube style header. If you want to come up your more than welcome to
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02greens10
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Report this Post06-04-2010 11:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 02greens10Send a Private Message to 02greens10Direct Link to This Post
I put a set on with my dads help. It's a two person job for sure. One to hold the pipes and the other to go underneath and start the bolts. Then the top guy starts some other bolts. then when they are all in each guy gets a wrench and go to town, by turning some of the bolts exactly 1/4 trun at a time because the clearance won't allow you to do more.

The Oil dipper, the coolant pipe and the AC bracket may be in the way. On mine I just ground the clearance I needed for the AC braket from the header flange; it wan't much at all 1/8 inch or less.

On the back you need to move the cruise can, and most likely the little selnoid with it. This was easy just tilt the can, and move the selnoid to another bolt and add a little longer vac hose. The coil needs to be raised maybe 2-3 inches.
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87antuzzi
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Report this Post06-05-2010 04:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 87antuzziSend a Private Message to 87antuzziDirect Link to This Post
Outlaw just left at 1:52am. Im not at all impressed with trueleo's work. They just "didnt fit" After moving a lot of stuff we got them on. will post more after shower.
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bowrapennocks
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Report this Post06-05-2010 08:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for bowrapennocksDirect Link to This Post
Too bad about Trueleo. I have an intake from them and had to fill a few pinholes where they welded the tubes on. I bought mine used here on the mall. I am not sure how old it is, but the powder coating had some surface rust on it and I had to repaint. I am not sure how much power it added. The car runs stronger, but I also ported the exhaust manifolds at the same time. Their intake gets an A+ for the cool factor, though. I would also relocate the ignition module. One of the local people here fried a lot of ignition modules after he added headers to his 2.8
Jim
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Blacktree
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Report this Post06-05-2010 09:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeDirect Link to This Post
Yeah, the 3-into-1 collector on the Trueleo headers sits right next to the ignition coil. Not good for the coil. After frying 3 coils in under a year, I said "forget that" and relocated it. Everything's been cool since.

Also, the paper gaskets that Trueleo supplied with the headers didn't last very long. I replaced them with copper gaskets (from Summit Racing), and that problem was solved.

Despite these minor inconveniences, I still thoroughly enjoy my Trueleo headers, and would recommend them to anyone who wants a high-performance exhaust. But then again, I go into projects expecting to have to tweak things a little bit to get them just right.

You also have to keep in mind that these are long-tube headers. They are going to take up more space inside the engine compartment. So things may need to be moved around to make room. That's just a fact of life.
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