Had a choice to get one from a grandprix with 67k miles or one out of a buick regal ulra (some name like that) With 30k, The engine with 67k would of came with the supercharger still on, The 30k engine the ppl sold the supercharger off of, Needless to say I picked the one with 30k miles, I took off the intake manifold and valve covers and it was clean as a whistle.

The only thing I did not like about the engine was this place stored ATF fluid in each cylinder (to keep it from locking up I guess) They also pretty much covered everything from getting wet, I believe they store there engines outside. Needless to say nothing got inside . It pretty much scared me when I took the plugs out and had nasty fluid and water condisation fly out at me.

When I got it home it was easy to rotate, So I guess the ATF fluid works when storing engines. Im still going to put it on a engine stand and pull the heads to clean the fluid and carbon out. And to make sure the cyl walls are in good condition. I have no flexplate to do a compression check... Bummer.

Yes I got overspray on the timming assembly, But it's comming off anyway to get polished. I never knew these engines came black brandnew. The block was clean.

Im going to take the timming assembly off and polish it myself, The background of the engine will be yellow valve covers, Yellow supercharger and everything else like the timming assembly and fuel rail will get polished by me.

The wierd thing about this engine is they put the injector holes in the heads (weird)

I still need a buttload of parts like the gtp bracket and everything else I will take pictures of this when being built. If the cyl walls need rehoning, Im going to break down and buy some diamond forge pistons for it. I will be ordering the xp hot cam for it, Going with the stage 2 ported TB, Getting a intercooler and probally some TOG headers and run a 3.0 pulley size to start out with.

PS pip is not letting me post any pics..... Doh !!

[This message has been edited by 86fieroEarl (edited 12-08-2005).]

your pic is broke, so you have the engine with NO supercharger on it? What charger are you gonna put on it? Im looking into Gen V M90s now... with some porting

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"Raced That, Wrecked Better" ~In Memory Of Jesse Cesek~ 1980-2000
US Armored Cavalry - Fox 2/81 - Death By 120 - 1 Shot 1 Kill

quote Originally posted by The Fieromaster: your pic is broke, so you have the engine with NO supercharger on it? What charger are you gonna put on it? Im looking into Gen V M90s now... with some porting

Going with the stock M90 for Now, The place decided it would be cool to sell the supercharger off it , So I will pickup a M90 somewere, Might just buy a brandnew one from zzp

Good luck and take your time! Theres a lot of misc. parts to collect and research to do, even if you think you already DID the research! I have taken my 60K L67 to a shortblock while checking and cleaning parts. I found some water in the oilpan pretty soon, obviously from condensation but I dont want to gamble so I dissambled most of the engine, headgaskets etc were ok. The cylinder walls still showed the original honing marks. Your 30K engine should look brand new! I have already mildly ported/gasket matched most of the intake/heads/manifolds to improve flow. Right now I am waiting for a ZZP IC setup and MPS (3.0/2.8/2.6+snout) to be shipped from Canada to Europe and theres a big list of parts I still need to order...I bought this engine to swap first and being able to mod it later.....but appearantly 'later' has become 'now'. soon

Earl,transmisson fluid won't hurt that engine,in fact you can use transmisson oil in the engine and drive it like normal oil and it will clean your engine and loosen piston rings if they're set.My short block is stock and has never been apart and as you know it's been raced many times turning in the 11's and has never been broken.I have an extra supercharger from my car with about 10,000 miles on it with a Magnusan nose , and it comes with a 2.8 and 3.0 inch pulleys.The nose alone costs $275 with one pulley,I'd sell the whole set up for $400.If you need any help with your install give me a call,I've done a couple of them.Don

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Too Far
60' - 1.497 sec
1/4 mi - 11.460 sec
mph - 116.08

quote Originally posted by Don Kraus: Earl,transmisson fluid won't hurt that engine,in fact you can use transmisson oil in the engine and drive it like normal oil and it will clean your engine and loosen piston rings if they're set.My short block is stock and has never been apart and as you know it's been raced many times turning in the 11's and has never been broken.I have an extra supercharger from my car with about 10,000 miles on it with a Magnusan nose , and it comes with a 2.8 and 3.0 inch pulleys.The nose alone costs $275 with one pulley,I'd sell the whole set up for $400.If you need any help with your install give me a call,I've done a couple of them.Don

Thanks alot for the info, Makes me feel better now about the transmission oil, I will be getting a supercharger at the end of this month so I will keep your offer in mind when I go to purchase one, Depends on if I get my bonus on the Dec 30th paycheck or not, If I do then I want the supercharger

Lets try this again with the pics and pip, The 2 things circled I have no idea how I will hook these up, The bracket that I took off connected them, And Im getting a low mount alt bracket made by loyde, And I think that part will probally be eleminated. I think if you simply run a hose to it it will easily pop out the intake part ( That piece of plastic is not in there tight)

Yay it works My work area is a pig pin LOL, I don't think that oil filter housing is going to work LOL, I also need to get ahold of a GTP idler bracket, The one that came on the engine looks like it will hit the firewall. This engine came out of a 1999 buick park av Ultra, Not a regal. The only thing that I have done since I got this engine is take the manifold off and paint it black, I was screwing around testing the hi temp gloss black paint and got the timming cover a bit and the oil filter housing LOL (comming off anyway to be polished) I kind of want to take the heads off to polish the exhaust ports and ect.

[This message has been edited by 86fieroEarl (edited 12-08-2005).]

Earl,that plastic elbow will be replaced by a freeze plug of that size that Loyd can provide you and the black heater hose connector will go with that aluminum assembly that goes in the water pump,that has to be removed for the low mount alternater.Then you have to tap that hole and fabricate and plumb that for your heater hose.I'll hold on to that supercharger until you let me know,it's from my engine that came from a 97 GTP.If you take the heads off you will need new head bolts as those are torque specific and can only be used once.Good luck,you'll love it once it's done.

Don

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Too Far
60' - 1.497 sec
1/4 mi - 11.460 sec
mph - 116.08

[This message has been edited by Don Kraus (edited 12-08-2005).]

Here in a pic of my engine you can see that WHOLE tensioner assembly/coolant tube piece is removed. There is an elbow tapped into the waterpump housing and a pipe barb over that which conencts to the coolant tube. Then i installed a freeze plug into the lower intake manifold hole.

Hope that helps some!!

+s for all

I took the exhaust manifolds off today and got a better look down in the cylinders, Needless to say, Im not going to pull the heads. Everything looked brand spanking new down in there, The top of the valves were brandnew. I will post more pics later.

A little update on the engine, This weekend I had to pull the heads anyway. I was rotating the engine and everything was fine till it locks up, I rotated it the other way and it locked up, Pulled the heads and found a huge washer like deal inside one of hte cyls holes, It was about the size of a nickel and was 1/4 thick. That was the reason why it kept jamming at a certain point, Needless to say im glad I did pull the heads after all.

Somehow that bugger got down inside it (probally skide between a valve when I was rotating it or when they removed it from the car)

Every cyl was very nice and clean except one The engine sat for 3years. It has light rust specks on the wall of this cyl, It probally will be fine if I leave it like that, But im going to take it to a machine shop and get all the cyls honed and rering with some new piston rings.

Im going to get new vavles for the heads, But the heads looked very good when I pulled.

Here's a pic of the nasty cyl, Any Thoughts or ideas ?

[This message has been edited by 86fieroEarl (edited 12-21-2005).]