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How to remove a GT(?) steering wheel? by Fiero Finale
Started on: 10-29-2005 04:32 AM
Replies: 14
Last post by: JazzMan on 11-02-2005 12:37 AM
Fiero Finale
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Report this Post10-29-2005 04:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero FinaleSend a Private Message to Fiero FinaleDirect Link to This Post
I found a GT steering wheel on a junkyard car(I believe thats what style it is....3 spoke kind with circle button that looks cool). But can't figure out how to remove it?? A detailed explanation(what tools I will need) and PICTURES would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks
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86GT3.4DOHC
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Report this Post10-29-2005 04:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 86GT3.4DOHCSend a Private Message to 86GT3.4DOHCDirect Link to This Post
all you need to do is pop off the center cap, take off the nut, maybe 18mm, but no idea really, Then take a steering wheel puller, or I just use a harmonic balancer puller. There are threaded holes that you put the bolts into, and tighten the puller to pull the wheel off of the shaft.
So all you need are the two tools, the socket and ratchet, and a steering wheel puller.
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cliffw
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Report this Post10-29-2005 08:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for cliffwSend a Private Message to cliffwDirect Link to This Post
1/2 drive ratchet preferrably and a short extension. Also the socket for the puller (5/8 I think).
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R Runner
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Report this Post10-29-2005 08:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for R RunnerSend a Private Message to R RunnerDirect Link to This Post
Good advice. You might want to plan on pulling that thing off today. I suspect it might dissappear if you wait. I don't remember the size of the nut off the top of my head, but the procedure listed above is sound. You also may want to bring a "C" ring puller which is just a set of springed pliers with pins on the tips. I have all of the tools if you want to borrow them, but I know it is out of the way. Just a thought. Unfortunately I'll be working on the house today so no junkyard play time for me.

give me a call if you want to borrow the tools.

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Paul

Home Built Tube Chassis IMSA Race Car - 3.8 lb./hp | 1987 Fiero GT 119,xxx, 3.1 motor, HHP swaybar, Full poly
For more IMSA Fiero info: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/789315
Edited for poor grammer.

[This message has been edited by R Runner (edited 10-29-2005).]

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cliffw
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Report this Post10-29-2005 09:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for cliffwSend a Private Message to cliffwDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by R Runner:
You also may want to bring a "C" ring puller which is just a set of springed pliers with pins on the tips.

Good thought. Also known as snap ring pliers, but I think thst is under the wheel holding the steering lock mechanism and turn signal assembly.
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Formula
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Report this Post10-29-2005 10:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FormulaSend a Private Message to FormulaDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by R Runner:


give me a call if you want to borrow the tools.

can i borrow the race car to take the tools to him? -you'll get it back, probably in a lot of pieces, but it would make the news!!!!!!!

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Report this Post10-29-2005 10:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
This is for a Formula/Coupe wheel, but other than how the horn button and plunger are configured it's the same as a GT wheel:

http://web2.airmail.net/jsavage1/repairprocedures/tiltcolumn/

The GT horn contactor looks like this, be sure to get it because you'll need it for a wheel conversion:

JazzMan

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Fiero Finale
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Report this Post10-29-2005 02:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero FinaleSend a Private Message to Fiero FinaleDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by R Runner:

give me a call if you want to borrow the tools.

Yeah that would be great!! If you don't mind, cause yeah I don't have one of those tools to remove it lol. I guess go ahead and PM me your address(I remember it but I wanna mapquest it to be safe lol) and a good time to come. Thanks again Paul and everyone with the tips to remove the steering wheel.

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Report this Post10-29-2005 05:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofetishSend a Private Message to fierofetishDirect Link to This Post
As it is on a wrecker car, you could probably save yourself a journey, and pull the wheel side to side, hard...REMEMBERING TO LEAVE THE NUT ON A COUPLE OF TURNS!! !! Otherwise..you might just lose a few teeth. On second thoughts, why not take the whole column? I bet it wouldn't be much more, and those upper/lower steering column joints are useful to keep around. To say nothing of other parts too!! I think it is only 4 bolts to take off..
Nick

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86GT3.4DOHC
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Report this Post10-29-2005 05:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86GT3.4DOHCSend a Private Message to 86GT3.4DOHCDirect Link to This Post
Yea, theres 2 15mm nuts and 2 15mm bolts, then the shaft coupler bolt is a 11, and you can just yank the whole columb, well after you unplug a few little things. If its tilt and in good shape, it would be nice to have around
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fiero doc
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Report this Post10-29-2005 11:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fiero docSend a Private Message to fiero docDirect Link to This Post
Snap ring plyers, 7/8 socket, 3'' extenion, rachet 2- 8x1.25 x 3'' bolts. steering wheel puller.
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Report this Post10-30-2005 01:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Poncho JimClick Here to visit Poncho Jim's HomePageSend a Private Message to Poncho JimDirect Link to This Post
Even with a puller, I've had trouble on old cars.. (near 20 years old is OLD)... I've had puller bolts start to strip or even bend while the steering wheel held on tight.

When this happens, what I do is spray the area with penetrating oil and give it a few minutes to soak in.. Then I put tension on the puller and give it a sharp short tap with a hammer. That usually breaks the wheel free.. (I had to do this last month with my car.. I took the wheel off to replace my turn signal cancellation springs)..

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1988 Fiero Coupe 2.5L
1990 Trans Am GTA 5.7L

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FIEROFROSTBITE
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Report this Post11-01-2005 03:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FIEROFROSTBITESend a Private Message to FIEROFROSTBITEDirect Link to This Post
JazzMan gives good advise. Every time I pull a wheel, I manage to lose the horn contactor spring. The spring from a ball point pen works as a replacement.
Ed
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webbee
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Report this Post11-01-2005 06:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for webbeeSend a Private Message to webbeeDirect Link to This Post
Another trick, if you don't have a puller, is to loosen the nut to the top of the column shaft and give it a good whack with a ballpeen hammer...Ok sometimes it takes a coupla whacks. Applying upward pressure to the wheel with your knees/thighs as you strike with the hammer helps it to break loose. You should place penatrating oil around the splines (remove the nut first) as Poncho Jim suggested earlier, whatever method used.
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Report this Post11-02-2005 12:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by webbee:

Another trick, if you don't have a puller, is to loosen the nut to the top of the column shaft and give it a good whack with a ballpeen hammer...Ok sometimes it takes a coupla whacks. Applying upward pressure to the wheel with your knees/thighs as you strike with the hammer helps it to break loose. You should place penatrating oil around the splines (remove the nut first) as Poncho Jim suggested earlier, whatever method used.

Keep in mind that hitting the end of the column with a hammer will generally ruin it because of the collapsing features built into it being compromised.

JazzMan

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