its finally warm enough to tear the t-tops off my formula, but the car is running like crap.
I have no idea what to o next and no time to really sit down and diagnose it because of work. (im pushing 12-16 hour days for the past 2 months)

I need help figuring out what to do or maybe just getting someone local to come give me a live second opinoin.

well now since i have to drive a van for work and my wifes bonnie is in the shop shes been driving my car and doesn't know a blinker tick form a rod knock.

to the best of my knowledge this is what ive attempted to fix it:

initial symptom - loss of horsepower, "bogging" code 32 and header leak tick
i thought it might be the cat getting plugged, but vac tested the EGR just in case, assumed if the cat was plugged it would blow out weak parts of the gasket
EGR seemed ok,
pulled o2 to feel backpressure, car opened up some. purchased gasket.
replased gasket aft side
payed some shop 90$ to replace the cat
same crappy performance
went digging further - found the plastic tubing melted together under the intake from the EGR tot he EGR selinoid
fixed it with rubber tubing - a little better but still crap
coded 32 and 34
replaced egr selinoid with extra i had - no difference
car still acts horrible like someone has their hand over the exhaust.
frustrated and out of time all the time i need help. dave g. paul, anyone local? got the time to stop by or any ideas from personal experience?

what really suck is that when i put her away for the winter she was running like a champ.

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Lemme see... 32 & 34?

Stop by the parts store and pick up a new MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) Sensor and replace that (it's screwed into the side of the air cleaner housing). That should resolve the Code 34. This sensor should only run about $20... may as well pick up a new air cleaner while you're at it (or clean your K&N if you've got one).

The code 32 could be a number of pieces. Most likely it's the EGR tube itself (ask around for one... they're about $100 new), or the solenoid (again, ask around - you should be able to locate one cheaply, otherwise they can be a bit spendy for new replacements).

Once you resolve the engine codes - then see what else could be nagging the system. Did you put fuel stabilizer in the tank for winter storage? Could it even be bad/old gas?

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Looking for Fiero posters?

The EGR code will not effect driveablity to any real degree. Mines been throwing it for 4 months. the other code I would worry about, dont have my service manual hands, but MAP sounds right. The MAP sensor is on the pass side of the upper intake manifold, not the air cleaner, thats the MAF (air intake temp sensor) the MAP measures intake vacum to guage engine load, sounds like a pretty good bet for the problems you're describing. Its the same sensor as 95% of GM vehicles, so if you have another Fiero or GM try swapping the sensors. If that doesnt help, check wiring, there should be +5v, ground and sensor wire to the MAP. You can test the map by probing the sensor wire with key on engine off, and applying vacum to the port, shoul,d range from ~.5V to ~4.6V from 0 bar to -1.

quote Originally posted by 86GT3.4DOHC: The MAP sensor is on the pass side of the upper intake manifold, not the air cleaner, thats the MAF (air intake temp sensor)

you mean the MAT or IAT (same thing two different acronyms)

fiero doesn't have a MAF thats a mass air flow sensor

the MAP is int he side of the aircleaner on the 4 bangers but this is a formula

[This message has been edited by Kohburn (edited 05-11-2005).]

quote Originally posted by sastian: its finally warm enough to tear the t-tops off my formula, but the car is running like crap. I have no idea what to o next and no time to really sit down and diagnose it because of work. (im pushing 12-16 hour days for the past 2 months) I need help figuring out what to do or maybe just getting someone local to come give me a live second opinoin. well now since i have to drive a van for work and my wifes bonnie is in the shop shes been driving my car and doesn't know a blinker tick form a rod knock. to the best of my knowledge this is what ive attempted to fix it: initial symptom - loss of horsepower, "bogging" code 32 and header leak tick i thought it might be the cat getting plugged, but vac tested the EGR just in case, assumed if the cat was plugged it would blow out weak parts of the gasket EGR seemed ok, pulled o2 to feel backpressure, car opened up some. purchased gasket. replased gasket aft side payed some shop 90$ to replace the cat same crappy performance went digging further - found the plastic tubing melted together under the intake from the EGR tot he EGR selinoid fixed it with rubber tubing - a little better but still crap coded 32 and 34 replaced egr selinoid with extra i had - no difference car still acts horrible like someone has their hand over the exhaust. frustrated and out of time all the time i need help. dave g. paul, anyone local? got the time to stop by or any ideas from personal experience? what really suck is that when i put her away for the winter she was running like a champ.

God... doesn't that sound familiar... If you get it fixed... PLEASE LET ME KNOW!!!!

quote Originally posted by 86GT3.4DOHC: The MAP sensor is on the pass side of the upper intake manifold, not the air cleaner, thats the MAF (air intake temp sensor)...

Doh! Sorry about that - you're right! I was thinking of the MAT/IAT sensor location

thanks for the feedback! ill try the MAP sensor first and report back.

Mine ran great one night when I shut it off. Two days later when I next cranked it, it ran like crap. Turned out to be the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor. If you have access to a scanner, see what temerature the ECM is reading. Mine read 7 °F, when it was actually about 60 °F outside. I got a new one from a dealer for about $20.