First off, I want to thank those who gave me a lot of education by replying to this thread https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum6/HTML/029805.html Especially Mach10 who sent me countless pm's! The first set was a trial run and I'm MUCH happier with my new ones. I used 1/2 MDF. I had to special order a 4 x 8 sheet at the lumber yard because they only had 3/4. I guess you could use it but I didn't think it was necessary and that total extra width of a combined 1/2 inch might make the difference in being able to move my seat back comfortably like it does now. Use a t-square and rip your 4x8 sheet exactly 18 inches. The width between the back of the seats is about 22 inches but I didn't want it right up against the vent for the computer and possibly over heat it!
With this piece you'll be able to get your two front pieces and one back. Cut two pieces 28 1/4 and cut 26 1/2 from whats left for one back. Then square 18 inches again on what's left after your first rip and cut your other 26 1/2 for the other back.
Now take your two 28 1/4 pieces (fronts) and cut out your holes for your ten inch speakers. The holes need to be 9 3/16 in diameter about an inch from the bottom.
Now make the bottoms from what's left after cutting your 2nd back piece. They both will be 18 x 5 1/4. If you have a table saw, 45 the bottom of the front and one side of the bottom. It'll be easier to nail/screw them to together after.
[This message has been edited by Gokart (edited 03-12-2005).]
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10:15 AM
PFF
System Bot
Gokart Member
Posts: 4635 From: Mashpee, Ma. USA Registered: May 99
Next, stand up your box like the way it needs to sit behind your seat angled. I used P/L construction adheasive on all the seams. I then put a couple of screws (pre-drill) in each corner to sturdy it and then put about five panel nails (the ones with teeth!) acoss the top and bottoms.
Next. Fit your speaker in just to make sure it fits nicely without touching the back of the box
Next. Place your now sturdy box on the MDF you have left and trace your sides. I found this easier then trying to measure this difficult angle. I taped a pencil to a long dowel to get my mark to the corners. After you've made your four sides, cut your hole in two of them if you want it ported. I used a piece of 2 inch by 2 inch pvc for each one. Then use the other two sides for your speaker wire connections. Fit them into your boxes, predrill and nail them securly and P/L all edges.
My poochy thinks MDF stands for "maybe dog food!"
[This message has been edited by Gokart (edited 03-12-2005).]
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10:27 AM
Gokart Member
Posts: 4635 From: Mashpee, Ma. USA Registered: May 99
Nice fit and ready to carpet! It was snowing when I took this pic
They sound awesome and what a difference making the edges meet at the top! I was able to move my seat back where I always liked it and the MDF makes all the difference! Okay...I'm done
[This message has been edited by Gokart (edited 03-12-2005).]
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10:33 AM
F-I-E-R-O Member
Posts: 8410 From: Endwell, NY Registered: Jan 2005
I put my seat back all the way, I'll have to go out and check to see how much room is left behind the seat. Nice job, they'll look excelent with some carpet to finish them off.
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10:36 AM
Gokart Member
Posts: 4635 From: Mashpee, Ma. USA Registered: May 99
Originally posted by F-I-E-R-O: I put my seat back all the way, I'll have to go out and check to see how much room is left behind the seat. Nice job, they'll look excelent with some carpet to finish them off.
I'm hoping I can find something like that felt tan fabric that lines the piece around the center console! That would give it a factory look! Cliff, I've used ALOT of bandwith this week with all these pics $20.00 donation to PFF on it's way Here's the amp that's powering them!
[This message has been edited by Gokart (edited 03-12-2005).]
Yeha I'm going to go out and check how much room I have behind my seats now too. I like my seats pretty much all the way back, but I also lean it back so there might be room.
Nice write up. Thanks for the sharing of the info.
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11:02 PM
GSXRBOBBY Member
Posts: 3122 From: Southern Indiana USA Registered: Aug 2003
5'10! What made all the difference in comfort was taking Mach 10's advice and making the back piece meet the front, unlike the first enclosure I made . Not only was I able to recline the seat back 2 notches, I was also able to move the bolster back another notch. Exactly where I like it. If anyone wants to know how many notches forward I need the seat for these to fit let me know and I'll figure it out today.
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06:33 AM
Suufmeister Member
Posts: 155 From: Kennesaw, GA Registered: Feb 2005
Wow, that's fantastic. Thanks for sharing. So how many notches forward did you have to move it for minimum clearance? I was wondering if it would be possible to slice off the top 6-10" and seal it off to make room for the amp above it. Or would that have a negative effect on the sound. I'm not an expert on this stuff but I've read that there should be minumum "cabin space" for subs. That's why I was curious about the effect on sound if the enclosure was cut/reduced up top. Which sub are you using by the way?
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07:10 AM
Gokart Member
Posts: 4635 From: Mashpee, Ma. USA Registered: May 99
Originally posted by Suufmeister: Wow, that's fantastic. Thanks for sharing. So how many notches forward did you have to move it for minimum clearance? I was wondering if it would be possible to slice off the top 6-10" and seal it off to make room for the amp above it. Or would that have a negative effect on the sound. I'm not an expert on this stuff but I've read that there should be minumum "cabin space" for subs. That's why I was curious about the effect on sound if the enclosure was cut/reduced up top. Which sub are you using by the way?
I'll check in a little bit. I got to get the snow off the car again I mounted my amp in the trunk so I could keep the enclosure good size for more bass. I'd pm Mach 10 with tech questions like I did as far as "space" needed for quality bass. He did the dimensions for me. I have 240 watt 10" MTX subwoofers in each box.
[This message has been edited by Gokart (edited 03-13-2005).]
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07:21 AM
PFF
System Bot
Disillusion Member
Posts: 1132 From: Victoria, B.C, Canada Registered: Nov 2004
Originally posted by Disillusion: so if i were to use 240 watt MTX 10" subs, the dimensions would be the same as yours?
Yes. This is what Mach 10 had figured on when I sent him the specs. I doubt you'd be able to fit 12's in there unless they had a short magnet and also having to cut into the firewall and glassing it in, which I didn't want to get into. You may have to though if your tall/long legs! I just checked my seat and it's exactly half way forward. From all the way back to all the way to the steering wheel the seat has ten notched positions. My seat will not go back anymore than the fifth for the subs to fit, which is perfect for me and where I've always had it anyway with my short legs!
Nice boxes! Something I want to do soon. How much airspace are they? I didn't think it'd be possible to have ported boxes. Also, how deep are they where the sub fits? Most subs require 5-6"s, so I was just curious. Good job, you didn't even have to cut the firewall.
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07:07 PM
Gokart Member
Posts: 4635 From: Mashpee, Ma. USA Registered: May 99
Originally posted by KingOfKings: Nice boxes! Something I want to do soon. How much airspace are they? I didn't think it'd be possible to have ported boxes. Also, how deep are they where the sub fits? Most subs require 5-6"s, so I was just curious. Good job, you didn't even have to cut the firewall.
Thanks! Alot of your stereo expertise has helped customize the incredible sound I have now I wanted them ported because I thought with the seat covering the speakers, having some air escaping would be a good thing. The box starts at 5 1/4 at the bottom and obviously declines as the back and front meet at the top. There's about 1/2 to 5/8 space between the back of the mag and the back piece of MDF.
[This message has been edited by Gokart (edited 03-13-2005).]
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07:17 PM
Convertable Indy Member
Posts: 1644 From: Hanover, IN. Registered: Jun 2003