Ok I'm looking for a nice Fire Extinguisher to mount in my fiero. Should I be looking for a halon type or something else? Where is everyone else mounting them, what about summer temptures inside the car?
Here is one of the most creative mounting places I have ever seen.
However most off them seem to be on the right side of the centre console. Like where the passengers left knee would be. All the ones I have seen there have been mounted verticly However it's not in jordans car
Though my Fiero has never caught fire ... I have had a mid-engine, behind the driver burst into flames experience. Alpine A110 -- fuel line melted, dripped gas onto the exhaust header -- even though it was only a couple of ounces the fibreglass deck lit caught too & it would have been a big blaze but for the timely appearance of an extinguisher, courtesy of the service station attendant (remember them?).
If I was mounting one in my Fiero -- and I think I will -- I'd look hard at mounting it in the trunk, on the left, against the forward 'firewall'. In the event of a fire, I would pop the release from inside the car & the first on the scene (me) would have easy access to the extinguisher & the engine compartment.
Though my Fiero has never caught fire ... I have had a mid-engine, behind the driver burst into flames experience. Alpine A110 -- fuel line melted, dripped gas onto the exhaust header -- even though it was only a couple of ounces the fibreglass deck lit caught too & it would have been a big blaze but for the timely appearance of an extinguisher, courtesy of the service station attendant (remember them?).
If I was mounting one in my Fiero -- and I think I will -- I'd look hard at mounting it in the trunk, on the left, against the forward 'firewall'. In the event of a fire, I would pop the release from inside the car & the first on the scene (me) would have easy access to the extinguisher & the engine compartment.
GB
Excayley where I have been thinking about mounting it.
IP: Logged
02:30 PM
yellowstone Member
Posts: 9299 From: Düsseldorf/Germany Registered: Jun 2003
On top of the bass box that's behind my passenger seat. Fits neatly behind the headrest and it out of sight but easily accessible.
------------------ www.yellowfiero.com 17" DEZENT T wheels with 215/40 tires front and 235/45 rear, KONI shocks, EIBACH lowering springs, PU dog bone, bushings and engine mounts, K&N air and oil filters, OZELOT exhaust, Mercedes SLK yellow, Mr. Mikes seats, door skins, shift and e-brake boots. Custom sound system with subwoofer behind passenger seat, F355 style front. Fiero Store rear swaybar, strut tower brace, black carpet.
I keep my extinguisher inside the passenger foot area (simliar to where it is shown on Fiero5's car, but mine isn't actually attached). I personally wouldn't want my only extinguisher to be in the trunk... what would happen if the fire quickly destroyed the wiring for the deck release, or the relay and/or switch randomly failed at that moment? Or even if the flames were in the general vicinity of the extinguisher location. I'd rather already have it in my hand when it comes time to open the decklid
Best-case-scenario... I'd look at installing a http://www.firecharger.com/ system in my engine compartment with a remote release and I'd still keep one in my passenger compartment!
When you purchase a fire extinguisher, make sure that it is rated for A-B-C class fires. Many of the really pretty show units that many of us have are rated for B-C class fires, and that's not a good idea. Class A fires are fires involving material like wood, paper, cloth, plastic, rubber, and fiberglass. Class B fires involve flammable liquids and gases (gasoline, oil, grease, paint, thinners, cleaning solvents, propane, natural gas), and Class C fires involve live electrical components. If your fire extinguisher is only rated for B-C class fires, your extinguisher isn't rated for the wood, paper, etc. and may not work at all, or may put out the fire but not keep it from reigniting.
Please get at least 1 A-B-C rated fire extinguisher, and at lease 2 1/2 lb in size. These little chrome units are only 1 1/4 lb, and they are almost worthless. I highly suggest getting dry chemical instead of halon because halon is not that effective in an engine compartment fire situation, whereas dry chemical does wonders.
Where to mount: Make sure that it is mounted securly so it doesn't roll around, and make sure that it is accessible. DO NOT MOUNT IT IN THE TRUNK! If you have an engine fire, you do not want to open the read deck lid much at all. Even though the vents are right there, you want to keep as much oxygen away from the engine compartment as you can. If you open the deck lid too fast and let a blast of fresh air in, the flames can jump at you and burn you. Mount your extinguisher in the passemger compartment or under the front hood. Where you put it is up to you, but make sure that it is securely mounted so it can't fly around in case of an accident, or it won't get damaged by someone bumping/stepping on it. These units can be mounted horizontally or vertically. Just check it periodically and make sure it's charged.
As for temperatures inside the car, the fire extinguishers are rated to handle heat up to 120 degrees F, and I have customers (Wisconsin Electric/WE Energies) that have these types of fire extinguishers in power plants where it gets very, very hot.....and they handle the heat well.
If you do intend on purchasing one, I highly suggest that you go to a fire extinguisher service company that sells either Ansul/Sentry or Amerex brand of fire extinguishers. These are excellent quality units and will last a lifetime if taken care of, whereas the Kidde brand is cheap....and loses pressure very easy. We sell a 2 1/2 lb ABC unit for about $20, and we do have a chrome 2 1/2 lb ABC for about $80, if you really want one. But, get one locally. Open up the yellow pages and look under " Fire Extinguishers ".
If you have any more questions, I'm glad to help.
Mark Service/Instructor Airgas (formerly Interstate) Fire Protection Division Milwaukee, Wisconsin
IP: Logged
03:10 PM
RGBaker Member
Posts: 112 From: Ottawa, ON Canada Registered: Jun 2004
Though it sounds like you have much more fire experience than I ...
It sounds bizarre to me to put out an engine fire without opening the engine compartment. Impossible, frankly. Leave the deck closed, the lid catches fire. Shoot the extinguisher at a shut lid ... you'll run out of content in plenty of time to watch your car burn to the ground. JMHO. Maybe I missed your point ...
As for temperatures of 120 degrees ... I should hope so! Up here in the frosty north our interior temperatures routinely climb to 140 degrees with the windows up parked in the sun. I wouldn't doubt for a second they could spike higher. Surely 120 degrees doesn't begin to offer a margin of safety.
Mounting is a trade off. In the footwell, on the tunnel -- I've been there done that in other cars. Works fine, but isn't perfect. Mounted in the trunk isn't perfect either -- but better in the trunk than none at all.
It sounds bizarre to me to put out an engine fire without opening the engine compartment. Impossible, frankly. Leave the deck closed, the lid catches fire. Shoot the extinguisher at a shut lid ... you'll run out of content in plenty of time to watch your car burn to the ground. JMHO. Maybe I missed your point ...
It may sound bizzare, but if you're alarmed by a fire - quickly opening the decklid will only feed the fire and make it "flare up" at you (ever see backdraft? ). By having the extinguisher in your hand, you can slowly open the decklid (thereby preventing a flare up) and already be ready to spray the fire. If the extinguisher is still in there... you have to open it - then get closer to the source of the fire to retreive the extinguisher. Doesn't sound like the wisest thing.
Personally I don't see any issues with mounting it in the passenger compartment. Heck - install it left-to-right directly in front of the seat... your (or the passenger's) legs will extend over it, thereby avoiding any "knee-hitting" issues.
[This message has been edited by MinnGreenGT (edited 07-20-2004).]
IP: Logged
03:27 PM
LZeitgeist Member
Posts: 5662 From: Raleigh, NC, U.S.A. Registered: Dec 2000
Best-case-scenario... I'd look at installing a http://www.firecharger.com/ system in my engine compartment with a remote release and I'd still keep one in my passenger compartment!
I've wanted to do a vehicle-mounted fire supression system for years, and now that I've invested so much money into it already, I may just do this. Thanks for the link!
------------------ Patrick W. Heinske -- LZeitgeist@aol.com 1988 Red Fiero Formula Convertible
i have mine located right behind the drivers seat on the ledge between the window and the seat. it stays there without a problem. unfortunatly, it is my second extingwisher, as i had a caliper freeze and blew the line up. talk about scary!
IP: Logged
03:49 PM
GSXRBOBBY Member
Posts: 3122 From: Southern Indiana USA Registered: Aug 2003
I highly suggest getting dry chemical instead of halon because halon is not that effective in an engine compartment fire situation, whereas dry chemical does wonders.
Wouldn't have thought that about halon, in the military we had Halon (500LBS) extinguishers, that wwe manned during aircraft refeueling operations.
Thanks
IP: Logged
04:24 PM
RGBaker Member
Posts: 112 From: Ottawa, ON Canada Registered: Jun 2004
I thought Halon worked by using up all the oxygen, and required an enclosed space?
As for slowly opening the lid with the engine burning under ... you are a braver soul than I. Pop the sucker, spray and run is my plan. If the extinguisher is in hand, great. If I have to reach into the trunk and get it ... maybe I'll run before I spray.
Anyone mounted it behind the passenger seat? I would think that would be a good place to keep it, and you don't have to look at it all the time, or remind passengers of how these things "always catch fire."
One thought about mounting it in the front compartment though, I remember a thread about debris getting caught in the heater coil and starting fire (whatever that thing is)? So it would potentially be the same scenario as reachning into a burning trunk to retrieve the extinguisher.
IP: Logged
08:22 PM
87GT3800SC5SPD Member
Posts: 316 From: Gig Harbor, Washington Registered: Oct 2002
Best-case-scenario... I'd look at installing a http://www.firecharger.com/ system in my engine compartment with a remote release and I'd still keep one in my passenger compartment!
Thanks for the link to Firecharger. That is something that I have been trying to relocate since seeing it about a year ago.
Last August, my car caught fire during a track event session due to a rod going through the front of the block and spilling oil on the cat. The 3800SC is a great motor, but can sometimes act like a Duke. The corner workers and safety guys at the track are your freinds. Make sure you know where they are and get to them quickly if you have a fire. I arrived in the grid with fire coming out of both rear wheel wells and flames licking up the back window. Two safety guys came running, both armed with 30# fire extinguishers that were quickly emptied on my car. They applied them from the bottom first and were able to get the fire out. Although my interior looked like a bag of flour exploded inside, they were successful in saving the car by their quick response and having the proper equipment. After replacing the motor and wire harness, the only other damage to the car was a slightly warped quarter window on the right side. As already mentioned, the wiring to the decklid electrical also had to be repaired. I'm not sure that the application of an auto parts store sized extinguisher would have done much more than frustrate me as I kept squeezing it long after it was empty, while watching the fire destroy my car.
I am now concentrating on keeping the car pointed the right direction and trying to prevent causing the engine failure that created the "big oil leak". The Firecharger systems may seem expensive, but are much cheaper than the repair of fire damage, if you are fortunate enough to have a car to repair.
If anyone is uncertain about the danger of opening the engine compartment for an engine fire, please stop by your local fire department and ask them how dangerous it is to open the engine compartment. Also, ask them to show you the "hypodermic needle" device they use on the end of a very large hose that they will plunge through your decklid if they respond to your engine fire. They will not open the engine compartment first.
------------------ Bill Levin
IP: Logged
08:56 PM
RGBaker Member
Posts: 112 From: Ottawa, ON Canada Registered: Jun 2004
The idea behind fighting an engine fire is to keep it from flaring up as much as possible. As Rob said, you open the deck lid SLOWLY so the fire doesn't get a big rush of air, and ideally, if you keep the lid mostly closed, you can get in there just enough to fire off the extinguisher through the opening, thus trying to contain the fire as long as possible. You do have to open up the engine compartment, but the idea it to open it as little as possible.
As for temperatures in the cabin, yes, they can get hot. But, as we've seen with others, their fire extinguishers haven't had any problems....yet. I personally would rather have it mounted up front.
Be careful with the APC units. Most of these are limited use fire extinguishers, meaning that these are the B-C rated units. You need to have A-B-C rated units.
We still have halon available, and we service the large halon wheeled fire extinguishers at the 440th Air Force Reserve base here in Milwaukee. They have quite a few on the flight line. New halon portable fire extinguishers aren't available anymore, as halon is no longer produced here in the US. Ansul and Amerex sell a replacement clean agent, but it's not as effective as halon. For vehicle engine fires such as our cars, ABC dry chemical is the best agent to use. Just make sure you clean it all up as soon as possible if you ever have to use it.
ok ok ok. Yes rear view mirror is removed replaced with radar. It was parked for the winter that's why the dirt and no plate. Now back to the thread. Lets see some more ideas for fire extinguishers.
IP: Logged
09:07 AM
Fiero5 Member
Posts: 8882 From: Arecibo, PR Registered: Jun 2000
I always carry TWO fire extinguishers at al times. If you have a gasoline fire one extinguisher may not put the fire out. One unit is mounted on the left side of the trunk wall, the other is the front storage compartment. At times I sometimes carry a third on the floor in front of the passenger seat. I use the dry A-B-C rated extinguishers in my cars and have several pit sized CO2 fire extinguishers in the garage. One fire and you can loose everything that you have. Fire extinguishers = cheap insurance. I believe that it's foolish to drive any collectible car without one or two.
Temp inside a car.... I've measured that a few times... 140 on a seemingly cool day isn't difficult at all. I've measured that on 60-70 degree days. Doesn't even need full sun on some cars. 150-160 and even higher are possible on hotter days with full sun. I haven't measured 200 myself but I expect it is doable in some places with some cars.
If you have it in the cabin... try to mount it low and out of direct sun. Even if the thing doesn't burst the heat cycles can't be good for them. A chrome or other reflective unit may stay cooler than a painted one when sun hits it. Never tested that myself. Refelctivity wouldn't likely help much with convection heating.
You don't want them in back where you may not be able to get at them in a fire. Depending on the fire the Fiero trunk may be unreachable even if you can open the thing.
You don't want them in front for the same reason... If anything, even a minor front hit, jams the hood you won't be able to open it. The hood is specifically designed to jam if anything shoves it back more than 1/4 inch or so. This design is to prevent the thing taking your head off in a wreck.
Hallon and CO2 can work without opening a hood at all. Both are liquid/gas that can be shot thru vents radiator or other openings. You could even shoot them up thru from under the car depending on the fire at hand.
Dry Chem is pretty heavy and usually needs more access. It won't work without direct contact to what is burning.
If you try to open a hood on a burning car, be really carefull. Fiero has vents on either side of the deck that probably negate a backdraft effect but the deck could still throw a fireball in your face as it opens.
About ABC dry chem.... What firefox didn't mention above is that many dry chem products are highly degraded on class A fires. You'll see ratings like 2A 5BC. The digit tells you how the product performs on the given class. If you really think you'll have a fire in the A class you could need a much bigger unit than for a B fire. You need to choose your dry chem product carefully.
For an A class fire CO2 is one of the better things because it not only smothers the fire but sucks insane amounts of heat out from whatever is burning. CO2 is cryogenic when discharged. If you are holding the wrong parts of the unit your hands could freeze to it. The problem is that a 10 pound CO2 unit (The amount of liquid CO2 in the thing) often weighs in at around 40 pounds due to the high pressure tank. CO2 gets bulky fast.
Presurized water units work well on A for the same reason. They smother and cool. Don't use them on B or C. You could spread a B fire or get killed by a C fire.
My understanding is that most vehicle fires are B class driven by fuel and lubricants. Even when harder things like upholstery and body panels are burning they often fall into the B class because the stuff is melting into a liquid/gas before it is able to burn. Dry chem works on these "solids" the same as any other B class liquid.
Just for trivia... I believe there is a D class and it is burning metal. Metal doesn't burn? Yes it does and not just magnesium.
------------------ The only thing George Orwell got wrong was the year...
I attached mine right to the jack bracket up front. It was practically "bolt-on" because I used the existing jack hold-down bolt hole for one of the attaching points. And only needed to drill one hole throught the jack bracket for a second attachment.
IP: Logged
12:16 AM
malacite Member
Posts: 2213 From: Casselberry Fl 32707 Registered: Oct 2001
Mine, in all my cars is on the floor behind the drivers seat. Requires no mounting, fits perfectly in space not used for anything else, very easy to grab on your way out the door. Id never keep one in the engine compartment, where like already said is pretty useless since that is the most likely place to catch fire. Dont do you much good to look at a pretty extinguisher buried in the middle of the flames.
IP: Logged
07:07 AM
Formula88 Member
Posts: 53788 From: Raleigh NC Registered: Jan 2001
I attached mine right to the jack bracket up front. It was practically "bolt-on" because I used the existing jack hold-down bolt hole for one of the attaching points. And only needed to drill one hole throught the jack bracket for a second attachment.
Where's your jack?
IP: Logged
11:46 AM
skydad Member
Posts: 98 From: Covington, Louisiana, USA Registered: Dec 2004
Every chart I have ever seen on what color is the coolest says that white is the least heat absorbing color. Halon it my first choice since I have several and seeing it demonstrated when I was still flying airline, it was very impressive at instantly putting out fires almost instantly even in the open. If I were going to carry two, I would do one Halon and one dry chemical.
If I could afford it, I'd also carry 2. One dry chemical and one lightwater AFFF. Some ppl have mentioned 'flare ups'. I'll tell you what I witnessed 1st hand back in the early 80's. I had just started across the Brazos River bridge near Bryan Texas, when I saw traffic stopped on the bridge. Stopped, got out and was told there was a car stopped up ahead and smoke pouring out of it about 100 yards up the bridge. Grabbed my big extinguisher from my service truck, and took off running toward the car. From what I heard later, the driver had an attack of some sort just as he got on the 2 lane bridge and had passed out. Careened from one side to the other and finally came to a stop after knocking big chunks of cement from the sides of the bridge. Windows up, doors locked. A couple of guys were there trying to kick the side windows out. I could see thick black smoke leaking out the doors but no flames. Just before I got there, carrying that 15 lb extinguisher, one of the guys picked up a chunk of cement from the bridge railing and heaved it thru the rear passenger window. From my firefighting days in the military, I knew what was going to happen when I saw him advance with the rock, but it was too late. The result of the shattered window and inrush of oxygen was an immediate fireball that blew all the remaining glass out. It was so hot within the few seconds it took me to run the last yards, none of us could even approach the now engulfed car. Driver never had a chance, and in fact was probably dead from toxic fumes long before the rock went thru the window, if he hadn't already died from whatever had caused him to pass out to begin with.The Bryan Fire dept arrived shortly afterwards and explained their procedure would have been to force a fog nozzle thru the windshield and fight the fire first, then force open the door or window, thus preventing the flashoff. The windshield of course has a membrane in it that prevents it from shattering, unlike the rest of the vehicle glass. The 'fire' had only 2 of the 3 things needed for cumbustion-heat and fuel. The seats, carpet, and vinyl were probably burning/melting without a visible flame. To this day, I won't drive a car with the windows all the way up and the doors locked.
IP: Logged
03:15 PM
TejasFiero Member
Posts: 924 From: Humble,Texas,USA Registered: Feb 2003
I saw a cool Fire Extinguisher in the new issue of Hemmings Muscle Machines. It's called the SB-1 Hand Held Extinguisher and it's from FirecomUSA. Looks like it would be easy to store in a Fiero. Kinda reminds me of a Star Wars light saber. check it out at www.firecomusa.com
IP: Logged
04:25 PM
LITEDAZE Member
Posts: 1894 From: Timmins ON Canada Registered: Apr 2004
I saw a cool Fire Extinguisher in the new issue of Hemmings Muscle Machines. It's called the SB-1 Hand Held Extinguisher and it's from FirecomUSA. Looks like it would be easy to store in a Fiero. Kinda reminds me of a Star Wars light saber. check it out at www.firecomusa.com
those look cool! i read this on the manual too, seems a little more manageable after the fact......if you are in a situation where you have to use it anyway DESTINATION FOR ITS USE. The extinguisher made from potassium aerosol is suitable for fighting fires in closed environments, where the risk caused by the presence of liquid combustible materials (lubrificating oils, gasoline and other such products resulting from the rifining of petroleum, organic solvents, resins, etc.).
Solid combustible material ( woods, papers, cloths, composed materials, plastic material and other such things). It’s also effective in fighting fires involving electrical and electronical appliances, even under live tension, up to 40KV, for example low tension electrical switchboards, dry or oil transformers, cable tunnels, cable shafts, transformation and distributing cabines, telephone and “telematique” (graphic display) devices.
The extinguishing aerosol is essentially made of tiny solid particles of oxides and sulphates from alkaline metals.
The aerosol is not dangerous for the human organism, it doesn’t corrode or ruin other materials and easily washes away with water.
The aerosol is not effective in putting out fires where alkaline substances or other substances that burn in the absence of air are involved.
The aerosol extinguisher is contained in special metal containers and is produced in two different versions: Ø Fixed fire-prevention system to be used in civil industrial or military internal areas. Ø Fire-prevention systems for the various transportation means (trains, automobiles, private and commercial boats and aeroplains). Ø Portable fire-prevention systems (as part of the equipment given to W.F. personnel responsible for the company’s safety, fire-prevention posts during public manifestations, etc.) up
IP: Logged
05:01 PM
tednelson83 Member
Posts: 1993 From: Santa Clarita, California, USA Registered: Jul 2002
I saw a cool Fire Extinguisher in the new issue of Hemmings Muscle Machines. It's called the SB-1 Hand Held Extinguisher and it's from FirecomUSA. Looks like it would be easy to store in a Fiero. Kinda reminds me of a Star Wars light saber. check it out at www.firecomusa.com
I saw it in the same issue! This may be just the ticket for Fiero owners.
IP: Logged
07:36 PM
Jan 10th, 2005
Firefox Member
Posts: 4307 From: New Berlin, Wisconsin Registered: Feb 2003
Hallon and CO2 can work without opening a hood at all. Both are liquid/gas that can be shot thru vents radiator or other openings......
Dry Chem is pretty heavy and usually needs more access. It won't work without direct contact to what is burning.
About ABC dry chem.... What firefox didn't mention above is that many dry chem products are highly degraded on class A fires. You'll see ratings like 2A 5BC. The digit tells you how the product performs on the given class. If you really think you'll have a fire in the A class you could need a much bigger unit than for a B fire. You need to choose your dry chem product carefully.
For an A class fire CO2 is one of the better things because it not only smothers the fire but sucks insane amounts of heat out from whatever is burning. CO2 is cryogenic when discharged. If you are holding the wrong parts of the unit your hands could freeze to it. The problem is that a 10 pound CO2 unit (The amount of liquid CO2 in the thing) often weighs in at around 40 pounds due to the high pressure tank. CO2 gets bulky fast.
Presurized water units work well on A for the same reason. They smother and cool. Don't use them on B or C. You could spread a B fire or get killed by a C fire.
My understanding is that most vehicle fires are B class driven by fuel and lubricants. Even when harder things like upholstery and body panels are burning they often fall into the B class because the stuff is melting into a liquid/gas before it is able to burn. Dry chem works on these "solids" the same as any other B class liquid.
Just for trivia... I believe there is a D class and it is burning metal. Metal doesn't burn? Yes it does and not just magnesium.
Halon is hard to come by for most people, and in a vehicle fire situation you need to have a decent sized halon extinguisher to do the job. A unit that has a 2A-40B:C rating is worth about $300 on the used market.
Carbon Dioxide fire extinguishers, or CO2, in any size are not rated for any Class A fires. Class A fires are fires involving wood, paper, plastic, cloth, fiberglass, rubber, and other materials that leave an ash residue behind when burned completely. Carbon Dioxide is a gas and has no rating for Class A fires because it does not deal with the burning embers of the fire, such as a campfire log. The fire gets into the material and continues to burn when you stop discharging the unit or run out of agent. Yes, the CO2 gas is cold ( it comes out of the extinguisher horn at about 110 degrees below zero ) and will pull heat away, but without the embers being dealt with, the fire is still smoldering.
"About ABC dry chem.... What firefox didn't mention above is that many dry chem products are highly degraded on class A fires. You'll see ratings like 2A 5BC. The digit tells you how the product performs on the given class. If you really think you'll have a fire in the A class you could need a much bigger unit than for a B fire. You need to choose your dry chem product carefully."
I'm at a loss on this one. Degrade? If you want to compare ratings, a 5 lb ABC dry chemical fire extinguisher has a 2A10BC rating. The 2A rating is equal to the rating on a 2 1/2 gallon water fire extinguisher ( the big stainless steel ones that we had in schools )on a wood or paper type fire. 5 lbs of dry chemical has the same fire fighting potential as a 2 1/2 gallons of water extinguisher on a Class A fire. The 10B rating means that extinguisher has been rated to extinguish a flammable liquid fire of appreciable depth ( more than 1/4 inch ) of 10 square feet by a novice user. That means that someone that has never used a fire extinguisher should be able to put out a fuel fire a little larger than a 3 X 3 ft fire with this unit. The Class C rating means that the contents of the extinguisher will not comduct electricity and is safe to use on a live electrical fire. There are different dry chemical fire extunguishers, and a lot of the chrome units that we've seen in these pictures are only rated for B and C class fires, with no A rating. That means that the nice pretty fire extnguishers are probably going to be useless in a real engine fire, since you'll have rubber and plastic hoses, fiberglass and plastic body panels involved. When upholstery and body panels are involved, they most certainly do NOT fall under the Class B category. They are Class A fires need to be dealt with as such.
Please be careful with your misinformation. I've been in the fire extinguisher business for over 10 years as a service tech and fire safety instructor, and it's very easy to give out bad information.
There is a Class D hazzard, and that's the combustible metal fires. Magnesium, lithium, titanium, and even aluminum in dust form.
There is also a Class K hazzard, and that's a special rating for commercial kitchen grease-producing appliances, such as a deep fryer, range, or oven.
Mark Airgas Fire Protection Division Milwaukee, Wisconsin 414-254-0087
[This message has been edited by Firefox (edited 01-10-2005).]
). By having the extinguisher in your hand, you can slowly open the decklid (thereby preventing a flare up) and already be ready to spray the fire. If the extinguisher is still in there... you have to open it - then get closer to the source of the fire to retreive the extinguisher. Doesn't sound like the wisest thing.
