How many quarts of paint does it take to paint a fiero, i was looking at house of kolor's web site to get prices does anyone know? -gary-

3 Quarts + 1 Gallon clear

Depends on a lot of things. Your experience, single stage paint or basecoat/clearcoat, type of guy, color.

For me as a professional auto painter, I routinely paint smaller-medium size cars with my HVLP siphon gun, the original color with 1 quart of basecoat and 1- 1 1/2 quarts of clearcoat. This does 2 color coats and 2 1/2 coats of clear ( i put 2 all over and an extra on hood,roof and trunk) The cheapest on paint is about $10 qt of clear, $40 qt of basecoat color, $6 qt of reducer, and $8 pnt of hardener. Thats with a quality paint from R&M.

Interesting.

What does 3 quarts of high quality paint cost?

1 gallon of clear?

What type of paint is used?

Larry S.

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This thread may help you, I was inquiring about the same. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/037355.html

Chris

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'87 2.8v6 5spd

it took me 2 quarts of base and one gallon of clear....

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REMEMBER: If you cant win the race you loose the argument!!

www.geocities.com/j_depies

quote Originally posted by fieromadman: it took me 2 quarts of base and one gallon of clear....

I'm really curious where you guys are spraying a gallon of clear paint! I use about the same as Roger....1-1 1/2 quart. He and I use different brands of paint, but a gallon of clear? What kind of overspray do you have stuck on the walls of your garages? Are you trying to make the tires shiny? Clearing the engine? Trunk? Interior?

Seriously.....are you guys really spraying a gallon of clear paint?

Mark

Are those mixed or unmixed?

Seriously, you guys are using way too much clear. I can do 3 or 4 complete cars, or 8-10 partial (damaged) cars with a gallon.

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Roger, exactly what model of spray gun are you running? I have an Accuspray Issac HVLP gun, and Id say about 2 1/2-3 quarts of clear on a fiero with my gun. What size fluid tip and needle are you running? Are you running the 4.0 (or lower) VOC clear? Fill me in man, this can definately save some money here.

Its unmixed, And its including all jambs under hood,trunk, removal of all panels etc...

Mine is the Accuspray Series 10 HVLP siphon type. Its black composite with aluminum 1 quart cup. I use #8 air cap and a .028 nozzle. I spray with normally about 6 pnds pressure. Flow rate is 2-8 oz/min, visc is 10-20 #2 Zahn. Overspray is practicly non existant.

For clear I use Limco LC4000 (R&M). It mixes with hardener 4:1, no reducer needed but you can go 4:1:1 if you desire. Cost is $26@gal, hardener is $35@ qt (if I remember correctly). So a gun full runs about $15 ready to spray = 2 coats on a Fiero

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 01-30-2004).]

I painted my 88 with PPG Single stage Modena Yellow. I did a panel off (except the window surround) paint job, I used a gallon of paint at $325.00 a gallon with about 2 pints left over. My total cost, primer sealer, plastic prep paint, and all the other polishes and such was $750.00. I personally do not like Base Coat, Clear Coat paint (have seen too many peelers driving around including my own 1993 BMW 325is). You can't fix base coat clear coat easily were as I can touch up my single stage any time I have paint damage.

No Flames intended this is MY OWN OPINION.

Joe Sokol
85 SE 2.8 5 Speed
88 Forulma/GT 5 Speed 4.9 Caddy

Roger

I hate to ask you to be the Instructor in the Classroom, but could you answer a couple questions on the Gun?

You use the Accuspray series 10. Do you use the Turbine system or did you have the gun converted?

What effect do the different Air Cap Sizes have?

And on the nozzle, you say you use a .028. Is that .028mm? On all the guns I see advertised, they list 1.2, 1.4 ect, rated in mm sizes.
I realize that the larger the nozzle, the heavier the paint it can handle.
Would a 1.5mm for paint, along with a 2.0 for primer be a decent choice for a beginner?

Thanks

Jim

quote Originally posted by Fieroking: I personally do not like Base Coat, Clear Coat paint (have seen too many peelers driving around including my own 1993 BMW 325is). You can't fix base coat clear coat easily were as I can touch up my single stage any time I have paint damage. No Flames intended this is MY OWN OPINION. Joe Sokol

I think you have this backwards. Base/clear allows you to repair a panel without having to retouch the adjoining panels. With a single stage paint, when you fix damage, you have to repaint the entire panel. Lacquer paint allows you to blend your color/clear, but the newer urethanes aren't designed for it. It has been done successfully with certain colors, but for the most part, when you repaint a panel, you repaint the whole thing. With base/clear, you repair your damage, spray your primer, cover your primer with color and blend about 18 inches into the surrounding paint, and then clear the entire panel. With single stage color, you have to repaint the entire panel, which means that unless your paint matches exactly, your new paint at the edge of the repainted panel will not match the old paint at the edge of the next panel. With the base/clear, your old paint color/metallic blend match at the two panels because the only thing you added was clear.

As for the peeling issue, the problem is not with the paints, but the painters. I have never had a car peel for any reason. I've seen cars that I've painted scratched, dented, scraped, and 1 destroyed in an accident and the clear never peeled. What has happened to these vehicles is too much flash time between color and clear applications, and the color dried too much before the clear was sprayed. It has nothing to do with the kind of paint you are using.

Please reconsider the benefits of base/clear. I think you'll find that it's easier to work with and repair if the occasion arrises.

Mark

What firefox said.

Laquer was the best for repairs, you could just spray the damaged area and 'blend' it into the original, buff, and good as new.
Trouble is you cant find laquer anymore, in fact some places like calif, its illegal to sell or use it. All newer paints require a whole panel repaint, and like said with base, you can color just the spot repaired, clear the whole thing and not tell where it dont match. If you paint a whole panel end to end, good luck getting it the same. Yellow is one of the very worst colors, most are VERY transparent and take 2 or 3 times as many coats to cover. I usually mix up some left overs on a yellow one to cover the car before i put on the good paint. The peeling problems from factory jobs was mainly from 2 things. First the clearcoat was incompatible with the color coat and just plain didnt adhere. When they got that down right, they were waiting too long between the basecoat and clearcoat stages and clear didnt 'bite' in. I always put my clear on as soon as the base color turns flat, usually less than 1/2 hour and Ive never had one peel.

I think the .028 measurement is what they call a 1.3 or 1.4 tip. All the numbers can be very confusing. My #8 air cap is just a number that particular manufacturer uses for a reference. I just gave the exact specs to firefox because he also is using an ACCUspray. Those probably wont mean anything with another brand of gun.

Its just a regular gun, regular compressor, not a 'turbine' for general purpose 1.3 would be fine for finishing or even priming. I dont change tips, i just use fluid and pressure adjustments on the gun to compensate. It just takes experience to know what each medium does and how to adjust it accordingly.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 01-30-2004).]

im running the .051, which converts to 1.3mm. 1.3 is the best with VOC paints. Since Rogers is pressurized I can see how running a smaller fluid tip can atomize better, and therefore use less material. Im very interested in his setup. Im going to do some research.