[Cartmen]I....am....so....pissed....off....right....now.!!![/Cartmen]

Ok, so my cat is starting to clog up. No biggie, I just got a new emissions inspection last week (went ahead and got it early to make sure I'd pass) and got a replacement head pipe from The Fiero Store. Simple bolt on, right? Well, sure, untill I go to tighten down the Y-pipe to Headpipe bolts, and one of the suckers breaks off!!

So, what should have taken about an hour probably won't be done tonight. I don't have any easy outs, so I'm working on it with a drill, channel locks, and a hack saw. I've tried cutting a screw slot in the top of the stud, so I can turn it with a screwdriver - but it ain't budging. I may have to take it to a machine shop on Monday to get them to get it out for me. My drill bits aren't doing crap to it.

Sorry. I just had to vent. The Jack hasn't kicked in yet , so I'm still pretty worked up.

I love my car, I love my car, I love my car, I love my car...

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"I look up at the moon and wonder when we will be going back, and who will that be?" - Jim Lovell, Commander Apollo 13

[This message has been edited by Formula88 (edited 04-06-2002).]

Auugh-!! I sympathize. Ever notice how often broken / stuck bolts are the big headache that turns a "simple" job into a major pain? I bet they're the number-one cause of frustration.

Take heart - you're not alone. Even the pros have lots of trouble with bolts. Time and again, "Fasteners" shows up as the number-one category of shop problems, in the industry I work in (aircraft). And these guys are dealing with brand new, clean parts - not 15-year-old (or whatever) rusty stuff like we deal with on our Fieros!

That being the case, I make it a practice to apply Liquid Wrench to all the bolts involved in a particular job I'm planning to do. Sometimes weeks in advance. It usually pays off! Also, I use cheater bars a lot, and gradually apply torque - just enough to break the fastener loose. It helps.

I've used "cheater bars" and they are not the safest way to remove tough fastners.(bolts tend to snap instead of breaking free. I agree with the use of Liquid Wrench or another QUALITY penetrating fluid. Use an impact gun if you have one available, if not use a drift punch or something similar(length of steel bar) and tap the fastner with a hammer to break the corrosion bond.
You have to "set up vibration" in the part to break the rust bond.

Banzai !!!!!!!!!

Yeah, I usually use Liquid Wrench, but I wasn't expecting this to be a big job. I'd had the bolts out just a few weeks ago, even, so I didn't expect them to be rusted. I think the breaker bar just let me put too much torque on too fast. I should have used a gentler touch.

Now, until I can get the darn broken bolt out of my Y-pipe, I can't drive my car. I don't have any drill bits that will do much to a hardened bolt, and my brilliant idea of cutting a slot in the end of the stud to use a screwdriver on it was a waste of time (it's worked in the past, though).

Guess I'm gonna bite the bullet and take it to a machine shop or muffler shop and get them to get it out.

I feel your pain.
Last year, when I was removing my Y-pipe to get a crack welded, I realized that the bolts were too rusted for the wrench to get a grip. Pretty much looked like carriage bolts.
Ended up cutting the bolt between the manifold flange and the Y-pipe flange with a cutoff wheel, then turning the rest of the bolt out with vice grips. Wasn't a lot of fun, but it worked.
I *did* let it marinate in Liquid Wrench for a while first, though.
Good luck.

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Raydar

From the Department of Redundancy Department.

quote Originally posted by Formula88: Yeah, I usually use Liquid Wrench, but I wasn't expecting this to be a big job. I'd had the bolts out just a few weeks ago, even, so I didn't expect them to be rusted. I think the breaker bar just let me put too much torque on too fast. I should have used a gentler touch. Now, until I can get the darn broken bolt out of my Y-pipe, I can't drive my car. I don't have any drill bits that will do much to a hardened bolt, and my brilliant idea of cutting a slot in the end of the stud to use a screwdriver on it was a waste of time (it's worked in the past, though). Guess I'm gonna bite the bullet and take it to a machine shop or muffler shop and get them to get it out.

Go and get a stud extractor and turn it out the top, no drilling and less threads. Buy a new bolt and spring kit out of the 'help' section at the parts store.

quote Originally posted by Indiana_resto_guy: Go and get a stud extractor and turn it out the top, no drilling and less threads. Buy a new bolt and spring kit out of the 'help' section at the parts store.

Already got the new bolt. Stud extractor? Is that the same thing as an easy out? Would I try auto parts stores or hardware stores?

quote Originally posted by Formula88: Already got the new bolt. Stud extractor? Is that the same thing as an easy out? Would I try auto parts stores or hardware stores?

Not the same thing. This goes over a stud (or the end of an exposed bolt) and grips the sides so it can be turned.
Most Auto parts should have them in stock (tools).

quote Originally posted by Indiana_resto_guy: Not the same thing. This goes over a stud (or the end of an exposed bolt) and grips the sides so it can be turned. Most Auto parts should have them in stock (tools).

Great, Thanks! I'll check that out today.