Has anyone replaced a worn coupler on a Eaton Series I or Series II Supercharger?

Thanks for the help.

https://jonbondperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=26_15_122&products_id=90&zenid=69dvogq5m4que9rbnh32oqbvn1


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mD-DvN7HO8M

[This message has been edited by hdryder (edited 06-02-2013).]

I have had mine apart to check everything inside, but i didn't have to replace my coupler. You DON'T have to remove the pulley to do this. Just remove the fill cap and drain the oil using a suction pump (you do not want to get this oil on your skin...not good for you and it reeks bad!!). Then remove the screws holding the snout on to the body of the blower. If you look at the blower, there are 3 main pieces to it. The snout, the piece the houses the gears and coupler, and the main body. There are a couple pry points on the blower where the snout meets the main body. I used a brass punch and tapped here to separate it from the main body. Mine came apart with the 2 front pieces at the same time. Then i had to remove the snout from the gear housing piece. Once you do this, the coupler is right there. Just swap it out with the new one. You will need some new supercharger oil and some sealant to put it back together. I bought my oil from zzp. They sell it in the correct amount so there is no measuring. For sealant, I used threebond 1104. I can't remember the torque on the bolts though. I will have to find it for you
I should say that mine was an m90 fron a series II engine. Not sure if there are differences in others.
troy

[This message has been edited by fieroaddicted (edited 06-02-2013).]

fieroaddicted, thanks for that information.

It sounds like the supercharger will need to be removed from the engine, and the work done on a bench.

I see couplers available on ebay, but I was trying to find a GM or Eaton part number.

Are there better than OEM couplers available, that may last longer?

Thanks for the help.

If you look at the first pic, you'll see that you should be able to leave it on the engine to remove the snout, although it is easier if it is off.
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You shouldn't do it without taking it off engine, when you remove the snout on engine with a paper SC gasket you end up risking ripping the snout overhang of the gasket, this will result in uneven surface for the supercharger to torque down to, this is bad. Also you never get all the oil out, do you really want that nasty stuff running down your engine?

Don't forget to use an anaerobic sealer.

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86 Fiero GT 4spd - (pending L67 swap: VS cam, GenV) Build Progress
98 GTP - Some mods

[This message has been edited by sco77 (edited 06-02-2013).]

I have a spare M62, that I will probably replace the coupler and oil before installing on the car. Once the spare has been installed, I can then service the M62 that is currently on the car.

Just trying to do some research before starting in on the project, so I can minimize downtime.

I figured it would be best to remove the SC to service it, but I was just checking to see if it was a reasonable possibility.

The entire thing start to finish shouldn't take more than about an hour to do. Time it takes to remove and install supercharger and about 15 minutes it takes to take off snout, clean area, swap on new coupler and the RTV sealant (use GM or Permatex Anaerobic gasket maker)... You want to give it awhile to cure before putting oil in so that will take up most of your downtime.

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86 Fiero GT 4spd - (pending L67 swap: VS cam, GenV) Build Progress
98 GTP - Some mods

If your only problem is a rattle when you rock the pulley back and forth, that's normal.

Is there a GM or Eaton part number available for the coupler?

Is the only place to buy the coupler, on the net?