I just picked up an 86 4 speed V6 for $550 to use as a track car and as it was so cheap it comes with some problems. Biggest current issue is that it won't start unless it's jumped. Once it does start you have to give it gas until it has warmed up enough to idle on its own. That only takes maybe 30 seconds until it can idle.
It seems like it just isn't getting enough power from the battery. Turning the car on it shows 13 volts on the stock gauge and when cranking it drops to 9 volts. I measured the battery myself and it showed 12.42 V then took it to O'reilly's and they charged it and their testers said it was good. I just replaced the spark plugs today with new AC Delco R42TS ones as the old ones were horrible.
I got a new battery because of not knowing how old the one that came with the car is and it won't start the car either. It's got 690 CCA, which is 20 higher than the previous one.
I'm about to test the starter to see if it's on its way out. But any other suggestions if thats not it.
Also, the clutch engagement point is almost to the floor, it's got the least play of any manual car I've driven. Is that normal?
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07:31 PM
PFF
System Bot
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17104 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Take the battery cables off of the battery. Clean the surfaces with a wire brush. Put them back together and see if that fixes things. If not then take off the other end of the negative battery cable, clean that all up and put it back together.
re idle. Does the check engine light come on when you turn the key to on, but don't start it? It should. Is the check engine light on at any other times?
If the check engine light works, then you should consider replacing the spark plugs. That includes the three on the front side also.
Check the level of the clutch fluid in the CLUTCH master cylinder. It's right next to the brake master cylinder and it's resistor is round. It takes normal brake fluid.
Hmm that does sound like a "current" issue. HA! Electronics jokes.. Check all of the positives for good connection and the fusible link, but check all of your grounds too. Fieros benefit from upgrading the ground cables.
It could also be the starter or solenoid. I've had a car that behaved like that and just needed to have the solenoid cleaned up and lubricated.
Can you describe "won't start"? Does the solenoid click repeatedly or engage properly? Does the starter engage and turn? Does it sound like it's cranking the right speed or too slow?
Edit: Oh, and welcome to the forum.
[This message has been edited by FieroGT42 (edited 05-30-2013).]
Thanks for the quick reply guys. I just checked the starter and the gears are about half an inch away from the flywheel gears. I think this is definitely the issue. The only thing contacting the flywheel gears is the shaft that the starter gear is on. I'm going to pull it off and check it out.
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08:48 PM
Goallie11 Member
Posts: 26 From: Manhattan, Ks Registered: May 2013
Another update. I watched the starter spin as my brother cranked the car and it just spun in place, didn't move to engage. There was a good half inch gap between it and the flywheel teeth. So I took it out, I think I can go get it tested at Oreilly's tomorrow.
One thing I did notice was that the nuts that hold the power and ground studs on the starter were loose so I tightened those. That was after I took it out. Maybe that was the problem, two batteries have enough amperage to get past those loose connections but one alone doesn't.
The check engine light does come on when I turn the key to on, but I just replaced the spark plugs yesterday with brand new ones.
I'll check the clutch fluid, I've never had to work on the clutch for any of my other cars so didn't know where to start.
Thanks for the help so far. Seems like this is a place with really knowledgeable people.
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10:09 PM
May 31st, 2013
Goallie11 Member
Posts: 26 From: Manhattan, Ks Registered: May 2013
Took the starter to O'reilly's and they said it was bad, wouldn't do anything on their machine. Which I agreed with since it didn't move to engage while I looked at it on the car.
Replaced it and it still won't start. It's cranking and all just won't go. I'm waiting for my brother to wake up so I can crawl under and see if this new starter is engaging properly.
I checked the distributor cap and the connectors seemed ok but I scrubbed them a little anyways.
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04:02 PM
Goallie11 Member
Posts: 26 From: Manhattan, Ks Registered: May 2013
Just confirmed the starter does engage the flywheel and it spins it.
Reading other wont start threads I see that the you're supposed to be able to hear the fuel pump prime. I've never heard it do that, either through one battery starts or through jumping starts. Should that be the next thing to check?
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05:35 PM
n7vrz Member
Posts: 521 From: Dixon Springs, TN Registered: Dec 2010
If you aren't hearing the fuel pump when you turn the ignition on, then you probably have a bad relay. Or bad wiring and/or connectors to the relay. Here is a thread that tells you where the relay is located. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/120729.html
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06:01 PM
Goallie11 Member
Posts: 26 From: Manhattan, Ks Registered: May 2013
Thanks, I swapped the ac and fuel pump relay and still nothing. Both might be bad, but the ac in this is completely disconnected so I don't have a way of checking that the ac one is good.
Those relays are cheap enough I'll check the wiring and if it looks good get a new relay.
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07:44 PM
Jun 2nd, 2013
Goallie11 Member
Posts: 26 From: Manhattan, Ks Registered: May 2013
I just checked if the fuel pump is good using the method found in this post https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...HTML/124144.html#p12 and when measuring the voltage at the ALDL pin it was 11 something. Then tried to jump it with power from the cigarette lighter and that didn't start the pump up. Both tests done with the key in the on position. So it looks like I have a dead fuel pump. Anything more I should test before dropping the fuel tank?
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01:11 PM
PFF
System Bot
Jun 18th, 2013
Goallie11 Member
Posts: 26 From: Manhattan, Ks Registered: May 2013
I was finally able to get a new fuel pump in and it still won't start. I definitely think something shorted.
After I got it in I went to start it and heard the fuel pump prime, then cranked it and it was turning but not starting. Realized I forgot to reconnect the wiring so I did that and tried again. This time it would turn on, prime, turn over maybe once then die entirely. I had to disconnect the battery and reconnect it to even get power. Now it's to the point of turn it on, prime, move key to start and it immediately cuts all power.
I checked the fuse block and the only bad one I found was for the trunk lid. I'm gonna disconnect the connectors to the fuel pump one at a time to determine if one of them is shorting or something.