While removing my rear wheel well liners to replace my alternator I noticed I've got some rust in the forward area of the wheel wells. It's not really bad, couldn't even fit a baseball through the holes, and it appears to be away from the frame rails. I've tried the search and can't really find anything, so hoping there are some on here that may have taken some pics of the process. What's the best way to remove the rusted areas, what kind of metal should be used to replace the old, rust-proofing (POR-15?) etc....

Any help would be appreciated!

quote Originally posted by NetCam: I've tried the search and can't really find anything...

I don't believe anyone has taken on a bigger job getting rid of rust in a Fiero than RWDPLZ.

It's alive! ALIVE! MWAHAHAHAHAHA!!!

And NetCam, you even posted in that thread.

quote Originally posted by NetCam: That is amazing, you have the patience of a saint!

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-28-2013).]

Thanks Patrick, I definitely remember that thread but of course couldn't find it because of the topic not containing 'rust' or 'wheel wells' or anything like that. My frame rails are good, and a PO already did the trunk, so all I need to do is the front of the wheel wells. One of the things I noticed mentioned in the threads in a couple of places is about the welder burning through thinner metal, which I'm guessing would be a real problem when dealing with the thinner metal in the wheel wells vs. the frame rails.

Cheap gasless MIG (flux core) welders have higher penetration and might burn through. Stick welders even more so. I'm a complete novice but I was able to weld something about that thickness with flux core. But... it was very difficult, and time consuming, and was described to me as looking like "hen sh-- on a pump handle". You want MIG or TIG with shielding gas to weld something that thin reliably.

If well-prepped, fiberglass is an option. I used it in front corners of my engine bay and trunk corners with no issue after almost 20k miles. Good news about this option: It will never rust.

[If you use it, the key is to clean it very well, prime well for resin, apply fiberglass (steel screen mesh works well if you need to make a framework on which to place the fibreglass), the prime the fiberglass after dry and topcoat.]

-Michael

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"A guy knows he's in love when he loses interest in his car for a few days." -Tim Allen

He who dies with the most toys... still dies.


My '84 Resto

Thanks, I might give the fiberglass a try, it's something I puttered around with years ago, and I guess if it's not that great, nobody's going to see it anyway!

Welding in new metal is your best option and isnt that difficult once the hole is cut and the patch is made. Any competent welder can weld it in for you.

The metal was extremely thin, I couldn't believe what thin metal they used back there, it was all about 20 gauge. 0.023 wire with shielding gas is a must with a MIG welder. Or if you know somebody who can TIG weld, that would be the best way to go. Definitely get it early if possible.

Yea I tried flux cored mig .030" wire, and it is impossible, you have to go so fast and it comes out looking like crap. If you have a flux cored welder, you can tack weld it and have a friend or welder weld it. As far as existing rust, por15 is awesome, it is so tough, feels like stone.

Knowing absolutely nothing about welding (OK, I did arc welding in school over 30 years ago), I'm guessing based on the comments that this isn't a good option?

http://www.princessauto.com...eed-Welder/8209686.p

quote Originally posted by NetCam: Knowing absolutely nothing about welding (OK, I did arc welding in school over 30 years ago), I'm guessing based on the comments that this isn't a good option? http://www.princessauto.com...eed-Welder/8209686.p

LOL... that has fewer settings than my Harbor Freight MIG... I didn't think that was possible, mine is 220V though as well. "Powerfist" heh

quote Originally posted by NetCam: While removing my rear wheel well liners to replace my alternator I noticed I've got some rust in the forward area of the wheel wells. It's not really bad, couldn't even fit a baseball through the holes, and it appears to be away from the frame rails. I've tried the search and can't really find anything, so hoping there are some on here that may have taken some pics of the process. What's the best way to remove the rusted areas, what kind of metal should be used to replace the old, rust-proofing (POR-15?) etc.... Any help would be appreciated!

It is pretty hard to give advice without pics, but, in salt country your POR 15 won't be the solution.

You need to cut away the rotten metal with tin snips until you hit solid metal. You get some galvanized sheet metal, probably 18 gauge. You use heavy paper to make templates of the shapes you'll need and then transfer to the steel. If it is not structural, you don't need to weld. Pop rivets will do the job, however, you need to coat the surfaces that are the original metal, with tar first. Don't use rubber undercoating. The asphalt stuff will do, but roofing tar (patch) that you spread on with a brush is superior.

You then paste your new metal over the area, with pre-drilled holes and drill and rivet the rest. Then you cover the whole area with undercoating. Again, roofing tar is best. This concoction will resist the salt the best of anything. I have done wonders with old cars using this method. It lasts for years and years. You will want to spray oil on the panels every season to keep the area pliable.

If you are not doing a body off, total restore, this is the best way to go at it.

If it is structural stuff though, welding in new metal is the only way. Again, coating with something the salt can't eat is important.

If you are welding sheet metal, don't try to run a bead. Spot weld to make stitches. Stitch welding makes fewer burn throughs.

Hope this helps.

Arn

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[This message has been edited by Arns85GT (edited 06-18-2013).]

If you go with metal, and don't have a MIG setup, brazing will work fine. Still tack, and stich '"weld". You will get some distortion, but not a problem in this area. Fibreglass will work great, for best results, use epoxy resin. Cleat everything to bright shiny metal, or sand/soda blast. Acetone wash, apply the first coat of resin only, then wire brush or sand the metal right through the wet resin. You will expose fresh metal, but it is protected from the atmosphere and corrosion by the resin. You will get a superior bond, and can then continue right on with the lamination. If you do use epoxy, it is not a good match with mat - epoxy has no styrene to dissolve the starch binder in the mat. Use bi-ax cloth, or regular cloth cut on a bias. I have done this before, knife trimmed the edge at B stage, and added pop rivets around the perimeter. Lasted 20 years to date.

Mike

If I get time this weekend I'm going to take the panels off so I can get a good look at what I'm faced with and take some pictures as well. If I go the metal/welding route, does anybody know a good source for sheet metal? I wouldn't even know where to start looking.