I'm in the middle of redoing my suspension with poly bushings and was wondering what the proper installation instructions were? I've read about every post on here regarding poly suspension and it seems that's it's been done a couple different ways.

-some people grease the entire bushing inside and out.

-I read that one person used anti seize instead of grease and never heard a squeak.

-some people only grease the inside and the sleave that the bolt goes through with the idea that the bushing it's not supposed to rotate in the control arm.

-some people rough up the outside of the bushing before installation to make it grip the sleeve in the control arm better.

I've read about adding the grease zerks to each bushing but I don't plan on going that route. So what's the right way, or that way would give the best results.

Are the control arms supposed to be torqued to a specific spec or just tight is tight? How about the ball joint and tie rod nuts, how tight are those supposed to be?

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[This message has been edited by zmcdonal (edited 05-22-2013).]

I assume that you read my thread. I seem to be updating it a lot lately...

I lube up the bushing and press it in. Then I lube up the sleeve and press it in. Eventually the grease wears out and squeeks. I would like to put in the zerk fittings, but you have to make a groove in the bushing for the grease to flow in. I never felt like doing that...

When you buy the kit of bushings there isn't enough grease in my opinion. I bought a tube of prothane grease to make sure i had enough. I'll probably never need to buy another tube... The biggest thing to make sure of is that the lubricant won't destroy the teflon. I was just going to get a tube of some generic grease from the store and read where it said not to get on plastics. I figure the last thing I need is the bushings getting squishy in a corner so I ate it and paid for the right grease.

I haven't heard of using anti-seize. Again, make sure there is no warning about it melting the plastic...

Yes, you have to torque the control arm bolts, tie rods, ball joints and sway bar to spec. I'm going to add that to my thread this week hopefully...

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-Brian

My 87 GT Poly Suspension Upgrade (all pics) thread
Removing the roof panel
My HUD install thread

freeze the poly for better install into the housings

quote Originally posted by revin: freeze the poly for better install into the housings

Yup already have it in the freezer.

You will probably end up wishing you installed the grease fittings, I know I did. I bought a 15oz tub of grease from Energy Suspension just to make sure I lobbed a ton everywhere, after 300 miles I was getting squeaking. I just pressed them in with one of those C-clamp presses you can rent from Autozone, non frozen and they popped in nice and easy.

quote Originally posted by MulletproofMonk: Yes, you have to torque the control arm bolts, tie rods, ball joints and sway bar to spec. I'm going to add that to my thread this week hopefully...

That's what I was kind of figuring. Looks like I will be going to Autozone to rent a torque wrench then. Does anyone have the torque specs I will need? Thanks.

quote Originally posted by zmcdonal: That's what I was kind of figuring. Looks like I will be going to Autozone to rent a torque wrench then. Does anyone have the torque specs I will need? Thanks.

I'm going to add them to my thread tonight.

EDIT: Added

[This message has been edited by MulletproofMonk (edited 05-23-2013).]

I see people isntalling the grease fittings like this (photo off google):



But that will grease the outer part of the bushing. Shouldn't the bushing move at all whatsoever in the control arm? Or may it be that there is a hole in the poly material going down all the way to the sleeve?
So basically I just want to have it clear

quote -some people only grease the inside and the sleave that the bolt goes through with the idea that the bushing it's not supposed to rotate in the control arm.

Is it the way it is normally?

[This message has been edited by cebix (edited 05-22-2013).]

I believe they drill down into the poly itself so the grease gets all the way to the middle. But also read that the grease zerks threaded into the poly are a little fragile and can get pulled out almost by just touching it with the grease gun.

Yeah the normal OEM rubber bushings don't rotate in the sleeves but I've read that some people say to grease any part that touches metal to prevent squeaking

After doing some reading I think there is no reason to grease the outer part of the bushing other than to get it in. If it shouldn't move then it should be tight and not greased.

Maybe that's why prothane doesn't give you THAT much grease. The amount they supply should be plenty to do just the centers where the sleeves and bolts go.

Drill through the outer part with the poly seated in the bushing WITHOUT the inner shaft part.( that is why the cardboard is there, to catch drilling bits.)
Also when drilling, make sure you know where the zerk will end up.( like a spot that points down or away from the hard to reach areas.

make sure all is clean clean.

Do not grease the outer poly, just add grease to the outer part of the shaft. the poly does not turn the shaft inside does all the moving.

What about roughing up the outside of the poly before putting it in? Is that necessary or just slide it in?

Sorry the quote button doesn't seem to be working right on my phone for some reason.

quote Originally posted by zmcdonal: I'm in the middle of redoing my suspension with poly bushings and was wondering what the proper installation instructions were? I've read about every post on here regarding poly suspension and it seems that's it's been done a couple different ways. -some people grease the entire bushing inside and out.

The current Prothane bushings have the inner bolt sleeves separate from the bushings. The bushings have small grooves on both the outer and inner diameter for grease application. Use the supplied grease, buy extra (Prothane or Energy Suspension) and really coat the outer and inner surfaces with grease.

quote Originally posted by zmcdonal: -I read that one person used anti seize instead of grease and never heard a squeak.

Maybe true, but I would not recommend this. Anti sieze is not a lubricant and should not be used as one.

quote Originally posted by zmcdonal: -some people only grease the inside and the sleeve that the bolt goes through with the idea that the bushing it's not supposed to rotate in the control arm.

This is probably true for new OE control arms, as the rubber bushings will not rotate in the control arms. But the replacement bushings have to be small enough so that they can be pressed into the ID of the control arm, so they will not grab the ID of the control arm and not rotate when in use. If you do not grease the outer surface of the bushings, your entire suspension will squeak on the first drive, and from that day forward.

quote Originally posted by zmcdonal: -some people rough up the outside of the bushing before installation to make it grip the sleeve in the control arm better.

Not gonna help. Without grease they will squeak.

quote Originally posted by zmcdonal: I've read about adding the grease zerks to each bushing but I don't plan on going that route. So what's the right way, or that way would give the best results.

Grease zerks would be a great idea if you could get tubes of the silicone based grease that is used on poly bushings. But you can't get that grease in tubes for a grease gun, so that would force you to use a chassis grease. All I'm gonna say is that if chassis grease were the best choice for poly bushings, then that is what Prothane and Energy Suspension would include in their kits. They do not use chassis grease, they use a silicone based grease.

quote Originally posted by zmcdonal: Are the control arms supposed to be torqued to a specific spec or just tight is tight? How about the ball joint and tie rod nuts, how tight are those supposed to be?

Yes they are. I only have the specs for an 88 Fiero, not for the 84-87.

quote Originally posted by cebix: After doing some reading I think there is no reason to grease the outer part of the bushing other than to get it in. If it shouldn't move then it should be tight and not greased.

If you do not apply a healthy amount of grease to the outer diameter of the bushings, they will squeak.

[This message has been edited by lateFormula (edited 05-22-2013).]

Is there a place I can go that carries prothane or energy suspension grease? I already have the front end apart, I know the fierostore sells it but I was hoping that I wouldn't have to wait on shipping.

I checked at AutoZone and advanced auto today and neither carries it. I was going to check at a speedshop tomorrow.

[This message has been edited by zmcdonal (edited 05-22-2013).]

I was thinking this product might be a good choice for grease as it is safe for plastics and rubber and has Teflon in it, also comes in tubes for any size grease guns.

http://www.super-lube.com/s...e-grease-ezp-49.html

or

http://www.super-lube.com/h...e-grease-ezp-50.html

or

http://www.super-lube.com/s...lon-ptfe-ezp-53.html this one maybe the best coice of the three

what do you all think?

Just get the right stuff, 14 oz tube of prothane grease.

Copied from MulletproofMonk's thread so it's easy for me to find. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/094633.html

quote Originally posted by MulletproofMonk: 84-87 Torque Specs from Ryan's excellent site: http://www.gmtuners.com/fil...7_Fiero_TQ_Specs.pdf From the 88 Service Manual

[This message has been edited by zmcdonal (edited 05-26-2013).]

The proper method for installation is given on the instruction sheet that accompanies the bushings. Ive installed dozens of sets with no issues.

Use NAPA SILGLYDE if you need more grease.