Hey guys I am moving into a lovely home in 2 weeks with 3 stalls of Fiero garage goodness. First home I have owned in 9 years. So my Black and very much in need of work 88 with an Iron Duke will be getting the gas milage treatment. I plan to fix the oil, and vac leaks. Clean the engine up. Replace the old 3 speed auto with the 5 speed Isuzu I snagged a few years ago. Im trying to figure out what other parts I need. I have:
Trans
Shifter
Shifter Cables
Shifter cable bracket
steering column
axels
brake and clutch pedal with switches
master cylinder
slave cylinder
So far I think I need to complete this:
Manual ECM
clutch line
and flyhwheel, clutch assembly, and throw out bearing.
Missing anything?
Thanks
Curly

Congrats on the house! You are going to need mounts for the transmission (unless I missed them in the list above).

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88 Coupe: 2.0L Turbo 4 Cylinder, W2A, T25 Turbo.
84 Indy #64: Restoration Project, Super Duty 4 swap

I would keep the auto column and not have to deal with that tab every time you go to remove the key and I take it you have the matching tranny mount brackets. Also if you instal the clutch start switch then you can bypass the park neutral switch and go straight to the starter with the ignition wiring. This may cause you to have to always depress the clutch after this to get the power trunk to work.
Do you have the proper reverse light switch connector for the isuzu so your reverse lights still work. Dan

I would also suggest keeping the existing steering rack... unless you happen to like playing with that release lever.

You will also need wiring pigtails for the reverse switch and VSS, to splice into the engine wiring harness. That's assuming you plan to keep the existing wiring harness.

Also, what do you plan to with the starter safety switch circuit? Are you going to bypass it, or wire in the safety switch on the clutch pedal?

[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 03-04-2013).]

Thanks that house is going to be heaven.
Yes Trans mounts! I forgot those. Thanks! Mounts added to the list.

I forgot to mention I also took the wiring harness from the car I got the trans and all of the other parts from. That car was an 85 with a Duke in it. I need to look at a schematic to see where the reverse switch and VSS get wired in. I need to look at a schematic to see how difficult it would be to wire in the clutch pedal safety switch. Since I plan on being the only driver of this car I guess I could get away without it. Although I know some people who have done that on their cars because they were too lazy to fix it right and ended up losing a few garage doors to wives and daughters who forgot.

Also I thought there was a safety issue with keeping the auto column. Something about locking up the steering while driving if you needed to turn off the engine.

[This message has been edited by Curlrup (edited 03-05-2013).]

Slight problem with the harness you got as the 88 is DIS the 86 was not. I would keep your 88 harness and just remove the neutral start switch and rewire the harness for the manual. The speed sensor plug is the same just different location and the reverse light wiring is in the neutral start switch on your 88 so basically short two wires and move four add in the clutch start switch and the wiring is done. Dan

quote Originally posted by FIEROFLYER: Slight problem with the harness you got as the 88 is DIS the 86 was not. I would keep your 88 harness and just remove the neutral start switch and rewire the harness for the manual. The speed sensor plug is the same just different location and the reverse light wiring is in the neutral start switch on your 88 so basically short two wires and move four add in the clutch start switch and the wiring is done. Dan

Cool that is what I was thinking. I got the harness in case I needed those plugs and I wanted to do 3800 or other swap someday.

center console w/shifter boot
verify trans has the flywheel shield - usually thats a no.

and, of course: trans mounts

[This message has been edited by Pyrthian (edited 03-05-2013).]

The 'Start' signal from the body part of the C500 in different spots on the automatics,and manual engine parts of the harness. It is easy to move the one wire. There is a little plastic retainer that has to be removed before you can switch the wire sockets. Lots of black stickey goop also. I found this after making mine an automatic from a stick shift car.

welcome to the "my clutch doesn't work how do I fix it club"

quote Originally posted by Pyrthian: center console w/shifter boot verify trans has the flywheel shield - usually thats a no. and, of course: trans mounts

Yep I have the console, boot, and the flywheel shield. The only parts I didnt get from the parts car was the hydrolic line it was broken, and the ECM since it was from an 85 and I have an 88.

if I remember right - its the yellow & purple.
both will be thicker gauge wires as well.

Thanks. 9 days from closing. Can't wait to be a home owner again.

quote Originally posted by Curlrup: You wouldnt happen to remember what pin and where would you?

I will look around to see if I still have my notes I used.

Found it.
I'm not sure whether Bloozberry of Iflyr22 posted these for me.
But credit is due to them for putting the 88 info out there for us:


You will need to switch wire 'E2' into socket 'A4'. And don't forget to to remove the plastic retainer first or you will never get the wire out of the socket. There was some fancy name for it, but I have forgotten what it was. It keeps the wire connectors square in their sockets.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 03-06-2013).]

quote Originally posted by josef644: I will look around to see if I still have my notes I used. Found it. I'm not sure whether Bloozberry of Iflyr22 posted these for me. But credit is due to them for putting the 88 info out there for us: You will need to switch wire 'E2' into socket 'A4'. And don't forget to to remove the plastic retainer first or you will never get the wire out of the socket. There was some fancy name for it, but I have forgotten what it was. It keeps the wire connectors square in their sockets.

This is great! Thank you!

There is another thing to consider. Your engine’s crankshaft has a large bushing that uses it’s inside diameter to center the torque converter. The bushing for the Manual, is longer and uses it’s outside diameter to center the flywheel. I just built an 88 2.5 and used a crank out of an Automatic to be mated to an Isuzu 5-spd. The Manual flywheel fit the OD of the Automatic’s bushing, but it wasn’t long enough to hold the flywheel in place without the bolts installed. This may work for some folks, but the potential for a 20lb buzz saw to break loose, bounce off the pavement, and come up through the driver’s seat was my concern. As far as I know, these bushings are NLA.
A two jaw pilot bushing puller with a slide hammer removed the one from a used Manual crank with no problems. After breaking the puller, attempting to weld to the bushing, and packing it with grease to use a plunger/hydraulics, the Automatic bushing didn’t budge until it was internally threaded and a slide hammer used. A very cold bushing made the installation a breeze. I hope this helps.

My 3.4, the 2.8 I used for dressing out my 3.4 to an automatic, and the 2.5 Duke I rebuilt and used it with a 5 speed 4 cyl transmission were all without a pilot bearings. There was a thread somewhere here that deals with this. None of the three stick shift transmissions that came in the Fiero had a pilot bushing. The 125C has a 'snout' on the engine side of the converter that has to go into the center of the crankshaft. It will not fit if there is to much rust and or scale in where the converter 'snout' goes.

I am not familiar with any other bushing around the rear end of a Fiero crankshaft.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 03-07-2013).]

Good info. I will keep this in mind.

[This message has been edited by Curlrup (edited 03-07-2013).]

A picture is worth a thousand words. This bushing looks pretty rough because it was welded on and threaded in the removal process.
This is what the crank from an 88 2.5 looks like with the bushing removed.

This is the same crank with a bushing for an automatic installed.

This is how the crank would appear with the bushing for the manual installed. The actual manual bushing has a larger ID.

Sorry about the confusion, I did not use the words “Pilot Bearing”. Hope this helps clear it up.

If it helps at all... I've gone through the entire process EXCEPT actually putting in the manual transmission (had to put the car in storage). But I've done everything INSIDE the car, including the shifter, wiring, pedals, etc... as well as everything forward of the engine bay, which includes the clutch cyl, lines, etc.

http://www.pontiacperforman...et/car87FieroSE.html

Maybe some of the pictures and diagrams in there can help if you need to see how things went together.

Thanks guys. So I need to add a bushing to the list. Thanks for the link 82 T/A.

[This message has been edited by Curlrup (edited 03-09-2013).]