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LS4 Swappers, Water pump question by ckrummy
Started on: 02-04-2013 10:33 PM
Replies: 3
Last post by: ckrummy on 02-05-2013 11:46 AM
ckrummy
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Report this Post02-04-2013 10:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ckrummySend a Private Message to ckrummyDirect Link to This Post
I've been looking into an ls4 swap, I'm a sucker for a v8, I've been looking through a bunch of build threads and I'm trying to find a good solution for the water pump system, seems so far the original ls4 one needs either substantial modification or chassis modification or both, Does anyone know if one of these would work, http://www.carshopinc.com/p...ybnrUCFe1AMgodZSgAgw I can't really see how close it is to the frame rail from the pictures. Fits in the factory ls1 pump location and has provisions for a thermostat, Wondering if it would have clearance to fit, without having to worry about a belt running to it it might be reasonable to do a light notch on the frame rail and run it, any thoughts from people who have hands on experience. And yes i already know 3800's are faster and what not.
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MCDUCK
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Report this Post02-05-2013 12:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MCDUCKSend a Private Message to MCDUCKDirect Link to This Post
talk to V8 Archie. He uses a fenderwell mounted Meziere pump and has the block off , routing pieces to go with it. A little cheaper and more hose routing but also fancier looking esp if you powder coat the aluminum parts. Otherwise the pump system you referenced should work well.
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fieroguru
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Report this Post02-05-2013 06:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruDirect Link to This Post
The stock thermostat inlet on the RWD electric pumps is the issue as it is towards the rear of the car and the frame rails pinch in at that point. If you don't want to mess with the LS4 pump, then using a similar setup to Archie is probably the way to go.

If you do the hinge box mod, you no longer have the fill interference issue on the LS4 pump and it reduces the mods to the water pump to just moving the upper idler and removing some material along the firewall edge. This still leaves you with where to place the alternator. Down low at the rear will require a frame notch or up front and flipped over the battery area... just needs a few more tweaks to the pump for pulley/belt routing clearance. You can't mount it down low in the front without extensive mods to the pump or eliminating A/C.
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ckrummy
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Report this Post02-05-2013 11:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ckrummySend a Private Message to ckrummyDirect Link to This Post
Thanks that's what i wanted to know, thanks.
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