ok i finally moved my car back into the garage to finish things on it.. a little background its a 3.1/2.8 i rewired the entire harness for a 7730 ecu. and dis... car fires up but wont stay running unless i keep my foot on the throttle.. anyhow.. i took my meter andohmed every sensor terminal to the correct pcm terminal (according to Ryans 7730 swap guidelines) all the wires seem to be good they ohmd out .. ok with the key on the tps should have 5v i believe... well i have NO power to the terminal whatsoever coming from the ECU (which is BA4) ......on the second page of the swap it says BA5 grey wire is to get 5v supply from terminal B of the a/c pressure sensor?????? i tapped terminal B on the C203 which has power is this correct? if not where should my 5v power supply be coming from?
There is no 5V ref signal in the 203 connector. All 5V ref signals originate at the ECM. The Pin B reference is a pin location at the AC pressure sensor, not at the 203 connector.
Ok then am I to run an entire wire from the engine bay to the inside to bA5? For 5v???? Like I stated I have bo 5v power coming out of the ecm to the tps or map.. also I eliminated the a/c in general. I do believe that was why I didnt wire anything for the a/c ...
[This message has been edited by kikinz24 (edited 01-29-2013).]
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08:37 AM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17106 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
ok after playing with it and using a good meter. i have 5v to both the map and tps. .. it starts and barely idles... its running WAYYYY too rich.... ive changed over the tps, iac, and map. already.. tried unhooking the coolant temp sensor.. no change in the condition... mat sensor is plugged in and as far as i believe is good because it came from my 87 which had no running issues, whatsoever... sooo now the question is... why is it so rich....... and thank you to tim. for helping me so far in the issue.. it is greatly appreciated,
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06:10 PM
Blacktree Member
Posts: 20770 From: Central Florida Registered: Dec 2001
You should use a laptop and ALDL->USB cable and run TunerPro RT and log a file and see what your sensors are reading so you know what's wrong. If it's running super rich, I'd check your temp sensor wiring, but that would be obvious on Tuner Pro since it would register as -40C for a temp.
Yes a cable would be quite helpful right now lol.... but without one does anykne have the resistance values of the coolant sensor / coolant temp... I can check at the sensor end and then check at the ecm.. that would tell me if I'm getting the propper temp signal to the ecm
Ok I did a google search and.found a resistance chart. I will be checking both at the sensor and at th ecm when I go home where there's a will there's a way. Ha without a comp I have to do this the old school way!
Yes it has a knock sensor which in fact is the one from the engine currently in the car which ran perfectly fine before I rebuilt it. And as for rebuild all i did was top swap. Heads and intake, And it seems to be working the dis wouldn't function propperly if it wasn't am I correct? and I'm quite sure the ecm would throw a code if it wasn't working?
[This message has been edited by kikinz24 (edited 01-31-2013).]
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09:04 AM
lou_dias Member
Posts: 5390 From: Warwick, RI Registered: Jun 2000
Originally posted by kikinz24: Yes it has a knock sensor which in fact is the one from the engine currently in the car which ran perfectly fine before I rebuilt it. And as for rebuild all i did was top swap. Heads and intake, And it seems to be working the dis wouldn't function propperly if it wasn't am I correct? and I'm quite sure the ecm would throw a code if it wasn't working?
LOL that explains it! Maybe... Was it an aluminum head Cavalier? If so, you are running about 7.2:1 compression right now and you just just dump a 14psi turbo end enjoy it.
Yes yea it is .... would it really have this hard of a time starting? It wont start unless I crack the throttle ... and its definitly running rich.... I originally had a g60 supercharger for it but due to funding at the time I had to sell it.......
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04:35 PM
lou_dias Member
Posts: 5390 From: Warwick, RI Registered: Jun 2000
Yes yea it is .... would it really have this hard of a time starting? It wont start unless I crack the throttle ... and its definitly running rich.... I originally had a g60 supercharger for it but due to funding at the time I had to sell it.......
Low compression will prevent you from making enough power...you'll also have **** for fuel economy...
Didn't you do any reading before swapping the top end of a cast iron head motor with the top end of an aluminum head motor?
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 01-31-2013).]
Yes I did and as I said I had a supercharger on the motor but money became.tight and 500$ to pay the mortgage was a bit more important than keeping the charger. But even at the low compression it should still run. I've ran a factory boosted car in the past with the turbo disconnected.. all I did was change the fuel maps and it ran like a non turbo car. Just lacked balls.... I would figured this would start and idle and run just not "make power".
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05:31 PM
Blacktree Member
Posts: 20770 From: Central Florida Registered: Dec 2001
Somehow I thought it was just the intake that got swapped.
So put the Cav heads and intake on it and it should run good with the existing tune. If you are going to sell it, this is the least expensive way out of your situation.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 01-31-2013).]
I don't have the original top end from it idk ill figure a small turbo for cheap I just want to get rid of it. Without losing my a$$ for what I have into it.
