We were at pick-a-part looking around and my friend saw this V8 S10, as he started stripping the lift kit off of it, I saw this alternator.
I looked at the tag and wahoo 170Amps. Cost me a whole $22 and then I got a battery cable to upgrade the alternator cable another $2.75
At first it tested bad, so I opened it up and found the triode was bad, (Err... broken in pieces) swaped it out and had it retested, this time it passed.

Pics of the alternator.




Side by side with a stock Fiero 94 Amp one.




The fan had a few chips taken out of it so I swaped on another one from a dead alternator.

I like the little tiny pulley too.




And the battery cable I got, this goes to the alternator and to the power dist box.
I also got a longer battery post to replace stock one on the starter cable and got the center section piece for the second cable.



So for $25 I got a completely upgraded electrical system. +76Amps and much better wire.

So far it puts out full voltage at idle with everything on and jumpstarting another dead battery. (It was a good test)

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"DRIVE IT LIKE A FIERO"
'84 Fiero, engine to be determined
'87 Quad 4 H.O.
'87Blue GT 3.4L Swap Completed!!!!!!!! Boosted!!!!!!!
^^^^ Now in the Construction Zone^^^^
Las Vegas Fiero Club Parts/Sales/Service/Club
Fiero Road Club Of Northern Nevada

[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 01-05-2013).]

I love junkyards Good score.

I could be wrong but I don't believe so, if you replaced the diode assembly (rectifier etc) with one from a stock unit then you no longer have a 170 A alternator. From what I've seen in my research for a higher amp alternator that's what gets modified/replaced to up the amp output.

[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 01-05-2013).]

it depends on if the diodes are HD type, usually the stator is replaced with one of which has more windings to boost output. If youre not using a ghetto blaster it should be fine, id still buy a new rectifier assembly.

http://alternatorparts.com/index.htm#gm-type

[This message has been edited by 34blazer660 (edited 01-05-2013).]

With that smaller pulley it's really going to spin the alternator a lot faster than normal, and of course you're going to need a shorter belt. With the reduced contact patch with the belt it may make the squeal come back. And looking at the side by side pic, it looks like one of the mounting points is missing as compared to the Fiero alternator. Or is it just the angle?

quote Originally posted by fierofool: With that smaller pulley it's really going to spin the alternator a lot faster than normal, and of course you're going to need a shorter belt. With the reduced contact patch with the belt it may make the squeal come back. And looking at the side by side pic, it looks like one of the mounting points is missing as compared to the Fiero alternator. Or is it just the angle?

With that you should really be charging even at idle

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86 GT Convertable 3800

Let me clear up some questions.
Yes I did need a shorter belt, but I happened to find one around the shop. No squeal at startup, no slip, works great.

The case is exactly the same as a Fiero one, so all mounting points are the same.

When they make high amp alternators they replace just about all the guts of one. The triode I replaced is not the same as the big 6 diodes in the rectifier assembly.
They replace the rectifier with higher amp diodes, or the higher amps would just burn it out. This one has alot beefer windings in it to produce the high amps, on both the stator and rotor.
The triode I replaced bolts inbetween the regulator (white piece) and the rectifier/coil mounting points. I looked everywhere online and could not find a difference in the triodes.

Here is a good pic inside a SI alternator(not this one, just a pic I found online)
The white part is the regulator
The part with the heat sink is the rectifier and that has the big 6 diodes in it.
The brown piece that goes between the two is the triode. (That is the part I replaced)




And the SIs are so easy to rebuild I will just rebuild this, if it ever goes out, untill the winding burn through.(which is rare) So at tthis point it will be cheaper to rebuild than if I ever had to buy another stock alternator.

[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 01-05-2013).]