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Fusible Links by Tyrfin
Started on: 12-15-2012 09:32 PM
Replies: 7
Last post by: theogre on 12-18-2012 11:52 AM
Tyrfin
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Report this Post12-15-2012 09:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TyrfinSend a Private Message to TyrfinDirect Link to This Post
Diagnosing abnormally high draw that is killing my battery. Multimeter hooked up between negative cable, negative terminal on battery. According to ogre's cave I should see < 250mA with everything off, decklid light disabled etc. I get 3.30-3.45 amps; it wanders a little bit. Pulled fuses, unplugged sensors, unplugged ECM, etc etc. Now the cave tells me to pull fusible links A and B.

My question is: below C500, which are links A and B? The two that are hooked together to a double-holed terminal deal that goes over both posts, or the two individual wires that go to the same posts?

I searched first and didn't find anything relevant.

[This message has been edited by Tyrfin (edited 12-15-2012).]

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Gall757
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Report this Post12-15-2012 10:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Direct Link to This Post
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theogre
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Report this Post12-16-2012 12:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
84-86 Fiero? First Check HL motors next. Unplug motors.

A and B are connected
taking box apart mainly isolate A B from Alternator and battery

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(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

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Tyrfin
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Report this Post12-16-2012 10:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TyrfinSend a Private Message to TyrfinDirect Link to This Post
It's the alternator, bah. Can be fixed at a component level or do I just have to replace the whole alternator?
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theogre
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Report this Post12-16-2012 12:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
Yes but no warranty...
Depend how bad too... does need bearings, diode, regulator, etc...
Many be cheap up front but a warranty is very good.
Just don't buy at Pepboys and a few others because no receipt means no warranty. I use AZ or Advance because they keep in computer... I had AZ stater 10+ years old and still replace it in warranty in September/12.

Use CS upgrade, See my Cave, CS Alternator

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

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Tyrfin
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Report this Post12-18-2012 12:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TyrfinSend a Private Message to TyrfinDirect Link to This Post
It still seems to charge okay, just sucks power back out when the car is off. Would that be the regulator or the diode pack?
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Gall757
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Report this Post12-18-2012 11:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Direct Link to This Post
Something is grounding internally, so it may be both. Most people replace the whole thing, which may be cheaper than buying components.
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theogre
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Report this Post12-18-2012 11:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Gall757:
Something is grounding internally, so it may be both. Most people replace the whole thing, which may be cheaper than buying components.

Yup...
And doing CS is easy and best bang for $.
CS generates more power from same engine HP input.
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