My steering wheel is at the 5:30 position instead of 6 o'clock when my wheels are straight ahead. I know I can get a wheel alignment and they'll center the steering wheel, But can I do this myself by some kind of simple "loosen - tighten" procedure at the tie-rod ends ? Hopefully something easy that won't jeopardize my ability to steer the car

Take it to an alignment shop. Chances are pretty good that you'll mess up the toe angle doing it yourself unless you have alignment equipment.

Just loosen both tie rod ends & screw one side in & the other out the SAME amount & tighten them back down. Test drive & repeat until the wheel is centered.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

If you have the cake, bring it for alignment. Make sure to tell the shop about the steering wheel. If moneys tight fix it yourself using 2 tape measures. Search youtube, its pretty easy to do.

1 tape in front of tires, 1 tape behind. IIRC should be 65in front and back.

For the wheel to be that far out it sounds as though the rack may have been recently rebuilt and assembled incorrectly. The steering rack needs to be indexed upon assembly.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Are you sure it is a front end issue? If the car is dogtracking due to the rear alignment, then the wheel would be off-center while driving, but perfectly centered on the rack.


If you just want to center the steering wheel, loosen the jam nuts on both sides, use some white out to mark the threads and the outer tie rod housing. It helps if you put the mark in line with the center of one of the 6 flats on the rod. Then you can turn it 1 full turn as a first rough adjustment, then turning individual flats (6 per 1 full rotation) to dial it in. Remember that one has to go in the other goes out or you will make a significant change to you toe setting, so it is important to do this right.

When you're done doing as Fieroguru suggested, I would add that you should turn the steering wheel lock to lock and make sure you can still turn it an equal amount in both directions. If you can't, then the problem is as Dennis LaGrua suggested... the column was not properly clocked to the rack when it was reassembled at some point. If that's the case, then post back here and I or someone else can guide you on what needs to be done to correct it.

(edit: spelling)

[This message has been edited by Bloozberry (edited 12-03-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Bloozberry: When you're done doing as Fieroguru suggested, I would add that you should turn the steering wheel lock to lock and make sure you can still turn it an equal amount in both directions. If you can't, then the problem is as Dennis LaGrua suggested... the column was not properly clocked to the rack when it was reassembled at some point. If that's the case, then post back here and I or someone else can guide you on what needs to be done to correct it. (edit: spelling)

Bloozberry: You could be right but the way I interpret it, this guy is talking about a steering wheel that is 180* out of position, I don't believe that you can get it that far out just with a bad tie rod adjustment, but who knows, I've been wrong in the past! When racks are rebuilt and not set to the proper index point upon reassembly, a 180* out of position wheel is usually the result.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

quote Originally posted by PaulJK: My steering wheel is at the 5:30 position instead of 6 o'clock when my wheels are straight ahead.

quote Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: the way I interpret it, this guy is talking about a steering wheel that is 180* out of position, I don't believe that you can get it that far out just with a bad tie rod adjustment, but who knows, I've been wrong in the past! When racks are rebuilt and not set to the proper index point upon reassembly, a 180* out of position wheel is usually the result.

The difference between 5:30 and 6:00 is only 15 degrees out... not quite sure where you got 180 degrees.

quote Originally posted by fieroguru: The difference between 5:30 and 6:00 is only 15 degrees out... not quite sure where you got 180 degrees.

I am going by the minute hand as a point of reference.
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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 12-03-2012).]

Dennis, I think he meant that the bottom spoke is at 5:30 rather than at six o'clock. I certainly hope that what he meant. If that's the case, then he might be able to correct it with the tie rods, but he'll still have to check for equal travel lock to lock. If he doesn't get equal travel, or if he really meant his 12 o'clock is at the 5:30, then he'll have no choice but to re-index the column to the rack.

thanks everybody. I just changed my steering wheel, nothing more.

quote Originally posted by Bloozberry: Dennis, I think he meant that the bottom spoke is at 5:30 rather than at six o'clock.

Yes, i meant that instead of the bottom being straight up and down (clock hands at 6 pm (normal)), it is slightly to the right.

[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 12-04-2012).]

quote Originally posted by PaulJK: I just changed my steering wheel, nothing more.

Now you tell us! Be sure you're fixing the real problem, not the symptom.

Step 1: Before you go messing with the tie rods, check that the steering wheel/hub is properly clocked to the shaft. If the steering wheel was centered before but isn't now, that is most likely the problem.

quote Originally posted by Bloozberry: ... you should turn the steering wheel lock to lock and make sure you can still turn it an equal amount in both directions.

X2. If the steering wheel position is symmetrical at each travel limit, then adjust the tie rods to center the steering wheel. If, as I suspect, the steering wheel positions at the limits are not symmetrical, then you probably need to re-clock the steering wheel to the shaft. You do know that the steering shaft has a centering mark staked on the end, don't you?

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 12-04-2012).]

Take the steering wheel off and put it on straight. Unless you have pulling issues or tire wear issues I'd just straighten the wheel, and have.