When you go to measure it, don't measure resistance. The required resistance is too low to be accurately read by a multi-meter.
Rather than that measure the voltage at the starter during cranking. Measure it from the bolt, not the nut, and not the wire terminal that the positive battery terminal is on. Ground the multimeter against the starter body itself, on the aluminum nose. You should see battery voltage (during cranking) within 1 - 1.5v. Any larger drop indicates a problem with the wiring.
Since trying to crank it with a bad negative battery cable to block connection can burn up your wiring, inspect that first, and make sure it is making a good connection.
If the drop at the starter is too large, start by seeing how much drop is on each of the battery cables. Move the negative wire from the starter nose to directly on the bolt that connects the battery cable to the battery. See if the drop still exists. If it does then try with the positive meter lead. Move the negative lead back to the starter nose. Put the positive lead directly on the positive battery cable bolt.
Once you have determined which battery cable has the drop in voltage, then start playing higher/lower and see where the problem is. If negative, do you measure the drop at the neg cable where it bolts to the engine? Do you measure the drop on the cable where it is connecting to the battery? Yes perhaps the problem is just between the cable terminal and the battery terminal.
All these checks need to be done while someone is attempting to crank the engine. Voltage checks with no load (not attempting to crank the engine) on the system are meaningless. They almost always show the full voltage.
-------
Fuel pump always running.
Disconnect the connector from the oil pressure sender/fuel pump switch. If the pump stops then there is your problem. Note also - Your oil pressure sender/switch is set at something like 3psi. After cranking a engine with cold oil, it might take up to 2 min for the oil pressure to drop down below that amount. The fuel pump will run that entire time. That is normal. Once the engine starts running however and the oil is warm, it will just take seconds to shut off, like you are used to.
thanks for all the tips!
IP: Logged
02:46 PM
Mr.Goodwrench Member
Posts: 315 From: Deer Park WA. Registered: Mar 2008
When you go to measure it, don't measure resistance. The required resistance is too low to be accurately read by a multi-meter.
Rather than that measure the voltage at the starter during cranking. Measure it from the bolt, not the nut, and not the wire terminal that the positive battery terminal is on. Ground the multimeter against the starter body itself, on the aluminum nose. You should see battery voltage (during cranking) within 1 - 1.5v. Any larger drop indicates a problem with the wiring.
Since trying to crank it with a bad negative battery cable to block connection can burn up your wiring, inspect that first, and make sure it is making a good connection.
If the drop at the starter is too large, start by seeing how much drop is on each of the battery cables. Move the negative wire from the starter nose to directly on the bolt that connects the battery cable to the battery. See if the drop still exists. If it does then try with the positive meter lead. Move the negative lead back to the starter nose. Put the positive lead directly on the positive battery cable bolt.
Once you have determined which battery cable has the drop in voltage, then start playing higher/lower and see where the problem is. If negative, do you measure the drop at the neg cable where it bolts to the engine? Do you measure the drop on the cable where it is connecting to the battery? Yes perhaps the problem is just between the cable terminal and the battery terminal.
All these checks need to be done while someone is attempting to crank the engine. Voltage checks with no load (not attempting to crank the engine) on the system are meaningless. They almost always show the full voltage.
-------
Fuel pump always running.
Disconnect the connector from the oil pressure sender/fuel pump switch. If the pump stops then there is your problem. Note also - Your oil pressure sender/switch is set at something like 3psi. After cranking a engine with cold oil, it might take up to 2 min for the oil pressure to drop down below that amount. The fuel pump will run that entire time. That is normal. Once the engine starts running however and the oil is warm, it will just take seconds to shut off, like you are used to.
Did your tests, no voltage at solenoid when key turned.
Fuel pump shut off when oil sender unplugged
Looks like I gotta trace the wire and find the fault
IP: Logged
11:25 PM
Apr 29th, 2013
Mr.Goodwrench Member
Posts: 315 From: Deer Park WA. Registered: Mar 2008
Got her fired up! had to replace ignition switch and got a new distributor. fired right up. idles pretty damn high though. maybe will do better when I fill the coolant/
IP: Logged
11:08 PM
May 16th, 2013
Mr.Goodwrench Member
Posts: 315 From: Deer Park WA. Registered: Mar 2008
