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Gauges and copper lines. by 87FieroSport
Started on: 10-17-2012 02:33 AM
Replies: 5
Last post by: Lou6t4gto on 10-18-2012 12:01 AM
87FieroSport
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Report this Post10-17-2012 02:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 87FieroSportSend a Private Message to 87FieroSportDirect Link to This Post
What size copper lines (and where can I get them?) should I use for the Sunpro mechanical oil gauge?
I bought a 2 gauge pod and an air/fuel gauge + OPG,
I want to install these but I've never messed with AM gauges before,

I don't trust the plastic tube.. And how hard is it to hook up an A/F ratio gauge?

V6 Auto.

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tesmith66
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Report this Post10-17-2012 07:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tesmith66Send a Private Message to tesmith66Direct Link to This Post
The plastic tube is the proper material to use. Copper will work harden due to vibrations and heat cycling and crack over time.

------------------
1986 SE Aero coupe.

3.4 DOHC swap is complete and running, now just have to finish the rest of the car...

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revin
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Report this Post10-17-2012 08:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for revinSend a Private Message to revinDirect Link to This Post
I believe Jegs or Summit racing has them.
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Marvin McInnis
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Report this Post10-17-2012 09:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Marvin McInnisClick Here to visit Marvin McInnis's HomePageSend a Private Message to Marvin McInnisDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 87FieroSport:

What size ... lines ... should I use for [a] mechanical oil gauge?



Answer: In general, the smaller the better. The line just has to communicate pressure; the flow volume is effectively zero. 1/8 inch tubing would be ideal, but 3/32 is probably the smallest pressure-rated tubing you're going to be able to find, though. Just be sure to bleed air from the line during installation, or the gauge reading will be sluggish.

If you do use metal tubing, put a small (~3 inches in diameter) loop of several turns of tubing between the engine and chassis. The loop will spread out the inevitable flexing in the line and help reduce the likelihood of fatigue cracking. Another option is to use a short section of flexible reinforced hose between the engine and chassis, and then hard tubing from there to the gauge. When bending tubing, use the largest radius you can. Avoid repeated bending, which will work harden the tubing and lead to cracking. If you crimp a tube while bending it, it must be replaced. It's also good practice to install a small orifice at the engine-end fitting, to slow down oil loss in case of a leak or rupture in the line.

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 10-17-2012).]

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87FieroSport
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Report this Post10-17-2012 08:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87FieroSportSend a Private Message to 87FieroSportDirect Link to This Post
Well also, my A/F tach light stays on. What's a good point to attach the positive wire too?
Right now I have it running to the Gauges fuse.
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Lou6t4gto
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Report this Post10-18-2012 12:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou6t4gtoSend a Private Message to Lou6t4gtoDirect Link to This Post
Use 1/8" copper line, available as akit in any parts store. The nylon gets brittel from heat, & will break, spray oil & create a Fire !
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