I'm in the process of refurbishing the suspension on my 86 GT.

I decided to do a bit more research this time instead of just automatically opting for POLY. Among other resources I've reviewed the OGRE's writeups on the subject. I have a lot of respect for this guy and his experience.

The OGRE professes to be a MOOG parts fan, and I too like MOOG components. As I look at the MOOG rr ca bushing #K6271 I see it already comes with the outer metal shell? The last time I looked at trying to install one of these that came with the outer metal shell, I finally gave up and went back to POLY.

How do you remove the old metal shell from the A arm without destroying the stamping. Again, how do you install a new bushing in the A arm with the metal shell? Do you use a hydraulic press? How do you support the thin stamped frame without distorting it? Or am I missing something?

Anybody with experience with these? Looking for help.

Marc in sunny Florida

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Marc in sunny Titusville, FL

• 84 SE son's car, loaded
  
• 85 Coup w/V6 transplant
  
• 85 GT looking to a 3.4 transpant
  
• 86 SE/GT "The Chameleon" - big plans!
  
• 88 Factory T-Top, really, the "last" one!

[This message has been edited by Gwain (edited 10-08-2012).]

1. use scrap metal/wood to stuff CA so it doesn't collapse. (Hard wood.)
2. need a press.

Can make one with all thread rod, nuts, assorted big washers, and pipe nipples.
or check AZ etc loaner tools
or just find a shop

an example from google images, search therm: control arm bushing tool
remove
from www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1604104

install

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

OK, now "that" helps a lot.

Everytime I've looked at this I couldn't figure out how to keep the A arm flanges from collapsing. I'll have to find some suitable tubing or thin wall piping to use as "stuffing". The rest looks easy once that riddle is solved.

Thanks. I'm looking forward to trying some different bushings for comparison. Could never get around removing the sleeve, so always ended up going back to POLY.

Marc

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Marc in sunny Titusville, FL

• 84 SE son's car, loaded
  
• 85 Coup w/V6 transplant
  
• 85 GT looking to a 3.4 transpant
  
• 86 SE/GT "The Chameleon" - big plans!
  
• 88 Factory T-Top, really, the "last" one!

I recently tried this and ran into that same issue, the arm does start to close in on itself. Like posted above, I also made a small spacer to go in there. I didn't get it 'exact' when I cut it, but it was close enough that the arm didn't bend beyond its 'plastic' limit. I had to use the spacer during install too.

pipe nipple and hacksaw will do...

can make a press w/ all thread etc pipe nipple and caps. Need a drill for making hole in the cap.
Similar to, www.diseno-art.com/products...rm_bushing_tool.html and

from www.maximummotorsports.com/...info&products_id=496

Note, grease thread and washers.
Soak with oil on the bushing shells if stuck.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 10-08-2012).]

I cut a pipe in half and put it between the ears to keep them from trying to collapse together.

Thanks for all the inputs folks, they're all really helpful.

I've looked at some of these universal kits. Haven't seen much with the tool loaner stuff around me.

I'm on a "mission" here guys. While my research has uncoverd a lot about installing Polly, and everyone touts the 88 suspension set-up, I have found very little written about tuning the 84 - 87 suspension or installing the OEM style bushings. I'm really anal about keeping stuff factory, so I'm not considering $700 bump steer upgrades and the like.

If you want an 88, buy an 88!

Ogre's write-up is comprehensive, and he's been helpful with follow on pics and advice.

I've looked at the Pro Auto kit:



and the Alltrade kit:



These are described as "Upper" Control Arm kits (read that "Front"). They are still "universal" though and may not "fit all". I'd like something more Fiero specific.

My Factory Manual describes servicing the lower Control Arms, Cradle and bushings:



but only details the Cradle bushing removal and tool details.

Further research suggests the Buick Park Avenue A arm bushings may be similar:



Many of the Kent-Moore tooling details are identical.

I've found most of the Kent-Moore details on EBay at $6 for this and $8 for that. I've bought everything to make up a complete "kit" to do the Fiero A arm OEM style bushings. I'm talking with one last guy on two remaining details for a remaining Spacer and Receiver Tube. If these Buick items don't turn out correct for the Fiero arms, the Spacers should be easy to make, and the Receiver if necessary (though I would expect that to be more forgiving). The Spacers are the critical items to prevent the A arm ears from collapsing or deforming with installation or removal.

Also Ogre talks a lot about never, never using heat on the critical suspension parts! As a Fiero novice I burnt out tons of bushings getting ready for POLLY!!

I want to be able to tune the suspension back to, or exceeding factory performance. I'm set on MOOG ball joints, strut caps and OEM style bushings. The OEM bushings are vulcanized rubber to the sleeves, so they provide torsional support in addition to the normal bushing functions. Hence the need to remove the old sleeves. Polly just beefs up rigidity but provides no torsional pre load. (Most POLY how-to's always talk about greasing everything up well).

I want to do solid aluminum on the cradle. I'm going with Rodney's

The struts I'm going to do Gabriel Ultra's. I'll finish off the back end with MOOG tie rods and ends.

That should put the back end back to, and exceeding OEM set-up prior to allignment

Then I'll tackle the front end, again with MOOG and Gabriels.

That's the plan for now. I'll take lots of pics.

Marc

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Marc in sunny Titusville, FL

• 84 SE son's car, loaded
  
• 85 Coup w/V6 transplant
  
• 85 GT looking to a 3.4 transpant
  
• 86 SE/GT "The Chameleon" - big plans!
  
• 88 Factory T-Top, really, the "last" one!

Heat can affect metal hardness and weaken the part. Far too many use way too much heat. Worse, Part may look ok but problem shows in months to years depending on driving etc...

Fiero CA bushings are NOT vulcanized/glued/etc to outer sleeve. I've done this many time w/o heating outer sleeve. Cave cover this some but I need to update that info.

Most kits will work on Front UCA and Rear CA.
Front LCA bushing is too big for kits w/ adapters they come with.
Is easy and cheap to make a puller/pusher... I went to Lowes for parts. (Sorry, 10+ years that I made one.)

Stuffers just need to be close... Doesn't need to be exact size.