I have everything replaced and put back in (spark plugs, wires, pick up coil, dist cap and rotor, new ICM). But now of course my car won't start. It cranks but that's all.

I put heat sink on the bottom side of the ICM, With the new wires, it was easier to take them off as a set, but I numbered them on both sides so I know they're in the right place. I didn't know what I was doing when I first started this project, so I took off my old wires from the dist cap in a way screwed up order (I think it was something like3, 4, 1, 2, center, 5, 6) but I don't even know that for sure. I put them back on in the 1,2,3,4,5,6 order, same with the spark plug side.

The dist cap wire side plugs are pushed down as far as I can push them. And when I go to crank it, the RPMs stay at 0. I guess it moves about a millimeter. I notice the temp gauge goes all the way to hot, and the oil gauge goes all the way to the other side as well. But the go back to their normal spot when I stop turning the key.

We tested the wire from the ignition coil to the dist cap with a timing light, and we didn't get a spark. We did take the ICM to autozone and it passed, so it is probably the ignition coil.

We are getting a spark on the spark plugs. With a testing light, we tested the connections. The ignition coil connections are fine, and the center prong on the dist cap lit up the testing light. But the outside prongs didn't light it up. So right now I'm sanding down where the ignition coil sits.

Testing using only a test light here, don't have a multi meter.

Got constant power to ignition coil with key on, same goes for ignition coil output and cap side of wire but when cranking we get no output from dizzy cap. Pulled cap off and plugged spark plug wire and spark plug directly to ignition coil and only got 1 spark per revolution of the rotor. Icm has been tested twice at the parts store, both with passing results. Told her to sand down the mounts of the ignition coil to get a proper ground. We will test some more another time, anyone have some ideas to help save time?

Did you replace the ignition coil? You're problem sounds exactly like mine that I just solved today. I replaced everything besides the ignition coil because it tested OK with the multimeter. My tach didn't move so the problem was still in the primary side. With a new coil my tach jumps up like it is supposed to. I just need to get it timed. I've also read that you should replace both the coil and the module at the same time. Good luck.

quote Originally posted by silverfiero: I've also read that you should replace both the coil and the module at the same time.

I believe that's in reference to the pick-up coil (in the distributor), not the ignition coil.

She has replaced the plugs, wire, cap , rotor, pickup coil, ignition control module, and even a grabbed a used distributor that appears to be in better cosmetic condition. A.k.a. doesn't have an inch of rust.

I feel that either replacing all of these at once has brought out a fault in the ignition coil, or my gut instinct that we grabbed a faulty module, even though the module tests fine on a tester at the parts store. Or possibly the new distributor /pickup coil is sending out signal only at one position on the distributor.

After all this work, when you crank the starter does the tach go up to 200 or more? If it does not do that, you have to work on the ICM or the pickup coil. ICMs can test OK and still be NOT OK.

Remove Tach Filter when HEI has problem... Bad filter will kill the HEI.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

quote Originally posted by Gall757: After all this work, when you crank the starter does the tach go up to 200 or more? If it does not do that, you have to work on the ICM or the pickup coil. ICMs can test OK and still be NOT OK.

Nope, my tach doesn't move

I need to add that it may be the wires and connectors associated with those 2 items.

Your’s could be a common problem and don’t cost anything to check.
Try this:
Watch the tach when cranking if it don’t move you're not getting pulses from the distributor. If so, it could be a faulty module in it or more likely simply corroded connectors at the base of the distributor. Reseating those connectors a few times could clean the pins some and also do the same to the connectors on the coil etc. These cars are old, and old connectors corrode. Such can also manifest itself as intermittent misfires, and engine cutouts.

BTW: lots of folks keep replacing modules and coils thinking they are bad because the new ones FIX the problem, when in actuality the fact that they simply unpluged the connectors and repluged them into the new unit cleaned the contacts enough to make it work again, at least for a while. It's smart, to replace those old connectors with new ones.
BTW: Cliphouse has those connectors

quote Originally posted by FireGirl: We are getting a spark on the spark plugs. With a testing light, we tested the connections. The ignition coil connections are fine, and the center prong on the dist cap lit up the testing light. But the outside prongs didn't light it up. So right now I'm sanding down where the ignition coil sits.

this statement is confusing the heck out of me

quote Originally posted by FireGirl: We are getting a spark on the spark plugs. With a testing light, we tested the connections. The ignition coil connections are fine, and the center prong on the dist cap lit up the testing light. But the outside prongs didn't light it up. So right now I'm sanding down where the ignition coil sits.

quote Originally posted by engine man: this statement is confusing the heck out of me

quote Originally posted by Shill: Testing using only a test light here, don't have a multi meter. Got constant power to ignition coil with key on, same goes for ignition coil output and cap side of wire but when cranking we get no output from dizzy cap. Pulled cap off and plugged spark plug wire and spark plug directly to ignition coil and only got 1 spark per revolution of the rotor. Icm has been tested twice at the parts store, both with passing results. Told her to sand down the mounts of the ignition coil to get a proper ground. We will test some more another time, anyone have some ideas to help save time?

She is still a bit confused on what is going on.

1. We are getting a spark on the spark plugs.
-I connected a wire and spark plug to the ignition coil directly, and got spark, but this spark came only once per revolution which tells me that there is a signal making it all the way to the cap, but only one pulse per revolution

2. With a testing light, we tested the connections. The ignition coil connections are fine, and the center prong on the dist cap lit up the testing light. But the outside prongs didn't light it up.
-I first probed the input to the ign. coil with key on to see if we were getting power to the ign. coil, i then probed the output of the ign. coil and also found power. Probed the input of the distributor cap and also got power, but when i probed the output of the cap, i got nothing. After this is when I did the first point above.

3. So right now I'm sanding down where the ignition coil sits.
-this is something i recommended for her to do when replacing everything to ensure a good ground, found out it hadn't been done and may be a potential culprit so i made her go back and do it.

quote Originally posted by Francis T: BTW: lots of folks keep replacing modules and coils thinking they are bad because the new ones FIX the problem, when in actuality the fact that they simply unpluged the connectors and repluged them into the new unit cleaned the contacts enough to make it work again, at least for a while. It's smart, to replace those old connectors with new ones.

This was my first gut instinct was that she forgot to plug in the pickup coil to the ICM. pulled everything apart to find it was properly plugged in, next step we took the ICM to get tested, both the ICM and pickup coil are brand new, so i doubt that it is an issue on the connection between the two. never occurred to me to check for corrosion in the plugs to the ICM. This will be the next thing that she checks.

There is a lot of stuff going on here that does not help you solve your problem.

quote Originally posted by Shill: This was my first gut instinct was that she forgot to plug in the pickup coil to the ICM. pulled everything apart to find it was properly plugged in, next step we took the ICM to get tested, both the ICM and pickup coil are brand new, so i doubt that it is an issue on the connection between the two. never occurred to me to check for corrosion in the plugs to the ICM. This will be the next thing that she checks.

Check or better still, replace the connectors that plug into the base of the distributor.

So sanding down the base of the ignition coil didn't do anything at all. So is my next step to go get a different ICM?

Go back to the first Francis T post and look at the connectors. Are the contacts clean? Crank the starter and watch the Tach. does it go up to 200-400? Depending on what you find there, the next steps will be different.

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 06-27-2012).]

Are you sure the distriubtor is set in the correct position?
Certain your not 180* out?

Your spark issue is strange to say the least.
Spark from the coil should be almost continuous not once per revolution.
Did you try the ogre's solution?

I got my ignition coil tested and it tested bad. So I bought a new one. And guess what?! It still won't start! Hooray.......

No change in anything either. No different sounds, doesn't almost start, just everything is the same. I don't know about sparks though.

My tach does NOT move. I have unplugged and plugged in every wire that I've touched at least 5+ times, so doing that won't help. I looked on the ends of them and they seem fine.

No I didn't try Ogre's problem because I honestly have no idea what he means, which in turn I don't know what to unplug or where it's at.
The HEI is High Energy Ignition? It is characterised by the incorporation of the ignition coil into the distributor cap, eliminating the need for a coil wire and adjusting them. Right? I don't understand what removing it would do

[This message has been edited by FireGirl (edited 06-27-2012).]

Here is a description of the Tach filter. The Ogre says unplug it and jumper the wires so that a bad tach filter will not be a problem during this repair. What you need to do now is get the tach to move when you turn the key. Either the ICM or the pickup coil will be the problem now...(the ignition coil is a different piece). The pickup coil can be tested with a multi-meter but not a light. The test is on that white page I posted earlier.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/120216.html

quote Originally posted by Gall757: Here is a description of the Tach filter. The Ogre says unplug it and jumper the wires so that a bad tach filter will not be a problem during this repair. What you need to do now is get the tach to move when you turn the key. Either the ICM or the pickup coil will be the problem now...(the ignition coil is a different piece). The pickup coil can be tested with a multi-meter but not a light. The test is on that white page I posted earlier. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/120216.html

Thanks, I will try that in the meantime. I ended up calling FieroKing and he will be over on Friday to help me. So I have two days to figure this out on my own...lol

nevermind

[This message has been edited by Firebird (edited 06-28-2012).]

Is your distributor rotor turning while cranking?
Are all your fuse links good, in particular the ones powering the ECM?
When your engine is at #1 TDC on the compression, is the distributor rotor pointing the the #1 post (where the #1 plug wire is located) on the cap?

Has the same situation after my engine swap. The problem turned out to be bad magnets in my new distributor.

quote Originally posted by Heinz_57_Fiero: Has the same situation after my engine swap. The problem turned out to be bad magnets in my new distributor.

That would do it.....they hardly ever go bad, but they would also knock out the primary ignition. You can test for that with any old screwdriver. If your distributor wants to grab it and not let go, the magnets are OK.

quote Originally posted by Gall757: That would do it.....they hardly ever go bad, but they would also knock out the primary ignition. You can test for that with any old screwdriver. If your distributor wants to grab it and not let go, the magnets are OK.

Where are the magnets at?

And also, my rotor does turn while cranking.

And when I put the distributor back in, it was pointing at #1.

If I had taken off the spark plug wires and cap, tried to start the car to see if the rotor was turning and put the wires back on the same way, but this time the #1 wire was not where the rotor was pointing, could that cause it to not start?

[This message has been edited by FireGirl (edited 06-28-2012).]

quote Originally posted by FireGirl: If I had taken off the spark plug wires and cap, tried to start the car to see if the rotor was turning and put the wires back on the same way, but this time the #1 wire was not where the rotor was pointing, could that cause it to not start?

Did the body of the distributor get turned at all while doing this? (It shouldn't.) If not, no.

The magnet is found on the top part of which (in the center) large round with 6 metal tangs on it and rotates on the shaft of the distriubtor within a metal cage also with 6 tangs around the outside. As the magnet rotates a magnet pulses is created as the tangs pass each other triggering the spark pulse to the plugs.

Sounds like it may be a stupid question but did you postiton the plug wires in a clockwise rotation of firing order?

[This message has been edited by Indiana_resto_guy (edited 06-28-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Indiana_resto_guy: The magnet is found on the top part of which (in the center) large round with 6 metal tangs on it and rotates on the shaft of the distriubtor within a metal cage also with 6 tangs around the outside. As the magnet rotates a magnet pulses is created as the tangs pass each other triggering the spark pulse to the plugs. Sounds like it may be a stupid question but did you postiton the plug wires in a clockwise rotation of firing order?

So that's what it's called! And yes, starting with #1

quote Originally posted by FireGirl: So that's what it's called! And yes, starting with #1

Actually it is called a stator. (sp?)

quote Originally posted by FireGirl: And when I put the distributor back in, it was pointing at #1.

Was it pointing at #1 when you took it out? Was the engine at Top dead center when you installed the distributor?

I did everything right! Woohoo!! We got her up and going. FieroKing came by to help me out. He tested a random spark plug I found to see if we were getting spark. I started the car and it started right up (Go figure, right?) But when he put the wire back onto the spark plug in the car, nothing. We were both confused as to what happened. Long story short, he took off the dist cap and noticed part of the pick up coil was sticking out, touching the teeth part on the distributor, which in turn, would ground it out. So that got pushed back in.

From a previous time, I tightened one of the screws too tight on the ICM and stripped it out somehow, so I took the dist to Joe's and he drilled out bigger holes. The screws fit but when the cap was lifted, one of them was loose again, and kept turning and turning. Back to now, he found bigger screws that would fit, but he ended up drilling bigger holes into the ICM so that the screws could fit through that as well. So that got all figured out, put everything back together, turned it on, and she started up just fine!! Did the timing on her, and now I really need to wash her! I am super excited, she drives very smooth (maybe it is just because I have been driving bumpy cars) and no more working on her until after Fiero Fest! Thank you to everyone who helped out, I have an awesome thread to come back to if I ever run into something wrong (Oh god, please no!! )

Good deal, glad your running now!

quote Originally posted by FireGirl: ....and no more working on her until after Fiero Fest!...

Hahaha what a lie I went to get an alignment, they said they could not do it because my front right outer tie rod is loose, and I need to repack the left side driver bearings.
She really needs an alignment, and new tires. The tires I am getting (Falken ZIEX 5-12) I have heard lose their tread quick when the car is out of alignment.

So I went to Rodney, ordered two front outer tie rods, two upper and two lower ball joints. Should be fun.