Two problems ,
#1 How do you get the bolt holding the brake line from the A-Arm mounting
Problem #2 getting the steel brake line and the rubber one apart . Not having much luck either .
Sorry to reference back to my website I will try to get the picture post figured out tomorrow

Brake problems!

The front brake line clamp hold bolt is simply a self-taping 10mm (I think) screw. It doesn't have a nut or anything like that on the backside, since it would be near impossible for you to reach behind there to grasp it. Remove it, and then either use the old bolt during reassembly or another self-taping screw. You have to make sure the brake line is not touching the A-arm or anything else though, as if it does it will eventually rub against the line and create a hole.

The rubber brake lines themselves can sometimes be a pain. You typically want to use a flare wrench on the line to grasp the nut. However with the age of most Fieros heat and road grime can 'fuse' the nut into the hard line, so it's typically best just to use a vice grip on the rubber brake line nut and twist it. You'd damage the nut on the old line, but if you're removing the rubber lines to replace them then this won't matter. I'd soak the rubber line nut in PB blaster a few times, let it sit, and then take a set of vices to it (one for the rubber line nut, and the other for the hard line hold nut. Twist the vice on the rubber line nut so as not to damage the hard line nut).

EDIT: I just looked at the link you supplied. That looks like some sort of rivet. Just knock it out and throw a self-taping screw on there when replacing. Your lines must have never been serviced before.

[This message has been edited by Fiero84Freak (edited 04-23-2012).]

drill/grind off the head of the rivet and punch out the center part.

Or use a pair of pliers and an pry bar and bend the part holding the rubber line so as the line will come out.

Cut the rivet.
To fix new one I use a small bolt, lock washer, and nut.
To clear the spring etc... Use bolt "backwards"
bolt thru control arm - line bracket - lock washer - nut.

Any bolt/screw in normal way in then may hit the hardware that holds the CA...

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

Got the rivot drilled out no problem. Going to try today on the brake line. Its the driver side front so if I screw up the line it will be a easy one to have made and replace I think .

You can buy brakeline in pre-determined lengths from the autoparts store. If you get the ones with the green coating, they can be bent by hand and they won't kink. I bought mine at Advance Auto Parts. The only line you can't get there is the front to back piece, otherwise, they have lines that fit the Fiero. So if you screw up, you can get something to work, off the shelf.

I just got done removing and replacing all brake lines today (over two days). Agree with source of Advanced Auto parts for metric 3/16 - 4.6mm bubble flare in 10" increments. Center 1/4 had to have made using the old fittings. I split the line into approximately 2x 6 foot lengths. Not such a struggle that way. Especially when you are trying to bend the 1/4" up to the brake safety switch manifold. That is a royal bear. I also split the left rear into two pieces 1x 30" and 1x 40". That worked out with not much fuss at all.

The pipes from Advanced Auto are almost black/green.

A set of pre-bent from Fierostore.com would have probably saved a days work but cost $100 more.

I hadn't done more than the left rear on a Fiero before so I soon discovered you have to take the trunk liner under the spare tire out to get at the two lines (1/4 & 3/16) that ride on top of the axle to remove the line clip. Not much of a chore except getting the two fresh are tubes removed at each end of the back. One 10mm screw in each one. I removed the window washer support bracket, the two rubber hood bumpers towards the front of the opening as well as the master cylinder to get the liner out.

I'll fill the system and bleed tomorrow. Hoping for no leaks in the many connections.

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bvander

[This message has been edited by bvander (edited 05-07-2012).]