I adjusted the shift and select cables tonight, and they didn't seem too bad--some chafing wear where they enter and leave the sleeves, front and back, but other wise okay. I think I remember seeing a thread describing a method for lubricating the cables. I'd like to try that before replacing them. Can anyone help?

i think a plastic bag with a hole in it and the cable running through taped around it, then fill the plastic bag with fork oil and let it run out the other end... for some reason i think its fork oil dont quote me on it.

Disconnect both ends. Put a shop vac hose over one end and shoot your favorite spray lube in the other end while working the cable back and forth. The vacuum will pull the lube through the cable.

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1986 SE Aero coupe. 3.4 DOHC swap is underway!

Use dry graphite lubricant, not oil, on your cables

I purchased a can of 3in1 Oil at the hardware store. Gun oil would do also. I removed the two cables from the car and hung them in my garage. I would go outside every 20-30 minuets and drip a few drops of the oil on the open end, and slide the center braided cable in and out a few times. Make sure you have something underneath the lower end. I had a nice puddle of 3 in1 in my garage the next morning.

I tried the vacuum method, It didn't work for me. The drip down method made my cables work like new.

because of the sheath the cables are lubricated as a last resort some times it is unavoidable
inspect cable for crushed or screwed up spiral,gently repair
the best method is to hang them up like snakes before skinning.
build a tight funnel at one end,tape it or wire it tight so most of the fluid jism flows thru the cable
the thin cardboard used by TV cable companies to solicit your business thru the mail works best,or thin plastic
that the wire will hold tight
first use brake cleaner spray to clean dirt rust gremlins & other evil fiero spirits Yes! impish evil spirits lurk in ye olde cars
I then use a special blend of rust penetrant but PB blaster kroil,liquid wrench,ect, will work
the best lube will be a dry type lube,but for old serious binding cables ,flood them with a good quality lubricant..
any good lubricant mixed with auto transmission fluid will do
you can lift the cables high at the engine side, & spray this way but remove the console & lay some cloth under the cables to catch the jism
remove the clip holding the hand shifter (you do not have to remove cable) MOVE IT IN & OUT,clean it the best possible & lube with light grease
if you remove cable clips, lay cloth underneath to catch flying clips,do not depend on magnet to retrieve them
spray the wierd looking shift thingamajig with brake cleaner, then with a dry lube to preserve the small rubber roller deale
..If you have gone this far,get some nails & follow directions in manual to ajust shifters,,IT BE EASY.Im brain damaged retarded & can do it..

TIP = if you need rust penetrant & none available use auto transmission fluid ,,you can harvest from car dip stick

the 88 duke 5 speed the cables were up high you can make a split in the cable outer sheath & lube them,,Im sure there are others like the 87 or other dukes that this will work,,I drilled a small hole in each cable ,,but I do not recomend this

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 04-16-2012).]

Graterfang and tesmith66 have the combination. Graphite and shop vac.

I kinda want to lube them while they're in the car (she has 196K on the clock; if I go to the trouble to remove them, I'll call Rodney and just replace them). I like the shop vac method--but I don't own one. (It's southern Arizona--I do all my work in the driveway, all year 'round.) Think I can disconnect them one at a time at the levers and get them high enough to drip lube them? I'm not worried about the mess; it can't be worse than the 27 years of crud I discovered when I removed the console and trim plate. Oh yeah--it's an '85 iron duke/Isuzu combo.

They make a tool for MX bikes, I am not sure if you could use it in this application though (diameter). Though if you are to this point, it may be wise to just replace the cables.

http://www.motosport.com/di...OOLS-CABLE-LUBER-RED

Here is one from JCW

http://www.jcwhitney.com/ca...e-tool/p2021449.jcwx

Thanks, BV. I like the possibility. Anyone every try this? Opinions? The tool is only $10, so if it's a possible solution...?

The cables can be lubed without removing them. You would have to do some dis-assembly on the console in order to get a vacuum hose over the end and taped. You don't indicate what transmission you have, but the Getrag select cables have a history of getting water into them because the protective boot falls apart and because the end of the cable points upward allowing water to run down into the cable. If that's the case, then it might be time to change the select cable. With the exception of the Getrag select cable, all other Fiero cables point in a downward direction.

You can construct a funnel for the transmission ends of the cables. Just tape it securely so that it will hold your lubricant, turn on your vacuum, hold the transmission pointing upward and pour in your lubricant of choice.

Actually, in an earlier post, I did say it was the Iron Duke/Isuzu combo. Vacuum of some kind seems to be the way to go if I want to do it with the cables in the car. I could use a small vacuum pump for the clutch and brake hydraulics, as well, so it's probably a good investment.

I was hoping maybe Rodney could invent one of those injection thingys to fit the Fiero cables.

quote Originally posted by fierofool: Graterfang and tesmith66 have the combination. Graphite and shop vac.

The Isuzu and Muncie seem to be ok in this regard, but the Getrag select cable is lower in the middle than at either end. Any water that gets into the housing collects at the low point and rusts the cable and liner (and in cold weather can freeze the cable until engine heat warms it up). There needs to be some sort of oil inside in order to prevent this.

I've never done this on a car, only Old bikes.

I used diesel to clean the cables. I have been amaized every time. I've freed up totally stuck cables using it. There is a grease/oil for cables that can be found at bike shops, but I have always used fork oil or atf, or just left the diesel residue in a pinch. sure does clean them well, but it probably attacks the plastic in some way, possibly insignificantly.

anyone try diesel?

quote Originally posted by BV MotorSports: They make a tool for MX bikes, I am not sure if you could use it in this application though (diameter). Though if you are to this point, it may be wise to just replace the cables. http://www.motosport.com/di...OOLS-CABLE-LUBER-RED Here is one from JCW http://www.jcwhitney.com/ca...e-tool/p2021449.jcwx

We have a cable oiler in the shop for lubricating the eBrake cables and they do work but it sometimes takes a few tries before you get a good enough seal that will allow enough oil in. I use a light synthetic oil and it seems to work well. With the cable oiler you must also use a pump style oil can..

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

..If you clean with diesel fuel add, some automatic transmission fluid, 5 diesel, to 1 part auto trans fluid
automatic transmission fluid is highly refined,,make a good emergency penetrant..
liquid wrench is a better penetrant than PB blaster by comparo test,,kroil is a winner to but harder to find.
I make a mixture of PB blaster, auto transmission fluid &, synthetic oil...
allow the drip method time to work thru any crud.
the absolute best penetrant is a mixure of acetone & ATF 50/50,,this is what you use if you have a stubborn spark plug in cylinder 2 on the V6,,the one behind the A/C unit.
clean out crud in console area as well as possible murphy & mr.snafu told me it will end up in your parts,,troll type fiero gremlins feed on grime & neglect..a gremlins laughs when you are stopped beside the road,swearing multiplies the gremlins.

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 04-20-2012).]