I have recently purchased an '85 GT 2.8L. The previous owner gave me a box that contained a slave cylinder. It doesn't have the push rod. If I'm going to replace the slave, is it possible to get a new rod? I'm guessing reusing the one on the car is not a good idea. I'm also not 100% sure I have the right part. Any help?

If you have the original one there would be no problem with reusing it.
It should be around 5 1/2 " as I recall. I misplaced mine for a while and used a 2.8 valve pushrod and it also worked just fine also.

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 03-21-2012).]

Cars an auto, 4 speed, 5 speed? We need to know that much at least please.

Edit: well it wouldnt be an auto anyway right?

[This message has been edited by weloveour86se (edited 03-21-2012).]

quote Originally posted by weloveour86se: Cars an auto, 4 speed, 5 speed? We need to know that much at least please. Edit: well it wouldnt be an auto anyway right?

Correct and the 85's only came with 4 sp.

It's a 4 speed, and currently the clutch will not disengage at all. The previous owner thought it needed a new clutch, but after speaking to a couple of folks, I'm hoping it might just be a problem with the hydraulics, so I'm going to bleed them this weekend, but thought if I have the slave it might be a good idea to replace it. There's only about 1/2" motion on the slave, and I've been told it should be a full inch. The one thing that worries me is the shift doesn't feel quite right, I can't even find reverse

You are correct that you should get at least 1” travel out of the slave cylinder. If not make sure you bleed the system. Here is the factory procedure;

Clutch:
System Bleeding
CAUTIONS:
- Extreme cleanliness must be maintained while bleeding the clutch system.
- Do not use linty rags, and ensure no dirt enters the system, particularly at the supply tank.
- Never add previously used fluid to the supply tank as it may be contaminated or have an excessive moisture content.
1. Fill supply tank with suitable brake fluid.
2. Remove floor mat or any other object which may impede full travel of clutch pedal.
3. Back out bleed screw on slave cylinder until fluid can be pumped out (approximately 1/2 turn).
4. Depress clutch pedal fully, then apply three short, rapid strokes.
5. Release pressure to allow clutch pedal to return quickly to its stop.
6. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until all air has been released from bleed screw.
7. Close bleed screw immediately following last downward stroke of pedal when air bubbles no longer appear.

You can't find the gears because the clutch isn't depressing enough. You either have air in the hydraulics or a leaky slave or master. If the slave is leaking you will have fluid in the boot at the slave rod end. If the master is leaking, check the carpet by the pedal. If you are not losing fluid, you have air in the system. That looks like the correct slave and you can re-use the rod.

You have to overcome the rocker spring on the shifter when you push it to the left for reverse and can be fairly stiff. If some juke fell down in the shifter could also cause problems.
I just rebuilt both my slave and master with kits two weeks ago and have lots of throw now... This time I bled by pushing the slave all the way in and letting it out slowly which worked well since the seals where all new.. I put the MR2 rebuild kit in the slave which has the dual seal.

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 03-21-2012).]

Well I tried to bleed the clutch lines, and I think I made it worse. The pedal is even spongier than before. I got a 'one man brake bleeding kit' and tried to get all the air out, but the bubbles kept on coming. Also, what was coming out didn't look healthy at all. Any suggestions?

Raise the front of the car as high as you can and gravity bleed it. I have always had best luck with gravity bleeding them, poor luck with other methods. If you used suction you likely drew air in backwads past the seals.

Bleed it a lot, that fluid is icky.

Yeah, that fluid is toast. I would put through at least a pint of new fluid before I tried to bleed it. Then use Archie's procedure (steps 14 and on are critical!):

Clutch bleeding prodeedure
You can do it your way, But this method always works for me.
After checking to be sure there are no leaks in the Clutch Hydraulic system.
Complete ALL of the following steps before test driving the car:
1) Install a helper in the drivers seat to push in and let out the clutch pedal on command.
2) Remove the cover from the Master Cylinder reservoir.
3) Top off fluid in the reservoir.
4) During the course of this procedure DO NOT allow the "helper" to "pump" the pedal. The "helper" is to depress and release the pedal on command only, DO NOT PUMP THE PEDAL. (See theory below)
5) You will be opening and closing the bleed screw on the slave cylinder as instructed below. CAUTION: During this procedure protect your eyes from squirting brake fluid.
6) (Helper) Press clutch pedal in fully and hold.
7) (You) Open the bleed screw to allow fluid to escape.
8) (You) Close bleed screw.
9) (Helper) Release pedal completely
10) (You) Top off fluid in reservoir.
11) Repeat steps #6 thru #10 no less than 5 times before going to #12 below. NO PUMPING!
12) You have now bled the Master Cylinder and the hydraulic line. YOU ARE NOT DONE YET!!!!! We must now bleed the Slave cylinder. (This is what the manual doesn’t tell you)
13) With no further action to be done with the clutch pedal, you can no remove the "helper" from the drivers seat and have him (her/it) help you do the following.
14) After topping off the Master Cylinder, completely remove the bleed screw from the slave cylinder.
15) Have the "helper" stand at the ready with the bleed screw and the appropriate wrench for installing the bleed screw.
16) PROTECT YOUR EYES!
17) With the bleed screw removed. With both hands grab the push rod coming out of the slave cylinder and push it into the slave cylinder as far as it will go AND HOLD it in.
18) Your "helper" will now install and tighten the bleed screw while you hold the plunger in.
19) When bleed screw is tight release the rod and as it comes out guide it into the proper position on the clutch arm.
20) Top off the Reservoir and the job is complete.

I tried the gravity bleed, and only got a few tiny air bubbles out. I will try getting a helper and see if I can try the 2nd method, I didn't bleed the slave, and probably my attempt with the 'kit' has allowed a lot of air to get in there. I'm guessing I should put a bucket under the slave to catch all the fluid that will come out when I pull back on the push rod?
One thing I did just notice, it appears that the push rod might be fully extended, as the boot is pretty stretched out. Shouldn't it be the other way around, compressed when the clutch pedal is released?

Sent you a pm. Rob

[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 03-23-2012).]

sorry to steal your thread. but i have an 85 swaped with the isuzu 5 speed. i lost the pushrod thing to my slave cylinder is it a different length then the one for the 4 speed? or if anyone knows where i can get another/how i can make another. PLEASE let me know.

The push rod for the 5 speed Isuzu is the same as the 4 speed Muncie (as is the entire slave). I swapped mine a while after this thread was started so now have an '85 with an Isuzu 5 speed as well and used the same slave I bought from Rodney for the 4 speed.

You can buy just the rod from rodney, if you want. But I suspect it's hydraulics (air in the system). Get some clear plastic tubing from the hardware store and a catch-can (I use a clear Dos Equis bottle--it props nicely in the engine bay) 'cause you don't want fluid getting on anything you care about. Your fluid looks pretty crappy. Gravity feed all new through the system, or just bleed it 'til it comes out clear.

Archie recommends having someone help you bleed the slave; I find that hard to coordinate, so I use vise grips in my right hand on the rod and a wrench in my left on the bleeder (now you know why a want a catch can that's easy to prop in the bay).

I had to bleed the master/lines a dozen times before all the air was out; bled the slave only once.

------------------
tucsonsean
'85 2m4 Sport Coupe, "Ol' Yeller"

I lost one too a while back but a section of 3/8" rod cut to the desired length will do just fine.
Just round off the ends.
I will try to measure mine from the 88 5 spd and let you know.
You can calculate what you need just remember not to let the slave bottom out at either end
when measuring.

Here's the old pushrod from mine - 5.5". If you weren't so far away I'd just drop it in the mail, but it would be quicker to get something locally.

NetCam, I've always had best results by using the gravity bleed method. It's a one man operation and you don't break up the air bubbles in the system by pumping.

If you are replacing the slave, you can fill it at this time through either the fluid line port or the bleeder port. Keep it positioned with the pushrod end downward until you get the fluid line reattached and the bleeder installed. Mount the slave to the engine.

Raise the left front wheel off the ground by 3-6 inches or place the car on a steep incline, parked at a 45 degree angle to the incline, drivers front corner on the high side. You just want to get the left front wheel about 6 inches higher than the right rear wheel.

Fill the reservoir and leave the cap off. Leave your fluid bottle nearby with the cap off.

Using a 13mm, open the slave bleeder and as fluid flows, lightly tap the side of the slave cylinder with a ratchet handle or heavy object.

Monitor the reservoir so as to keep it from running empty.

After about 4 refills of the reservoir, you should have flowed all old fluid out of the system and bumping the slave should have dislodged any air bubbles inside. Since the bleeder end of the slave is the high end, they should have migrated to the bleeder as you tapped the slave.

On your last reservoir refill, let it drain down to the FULL mark and close the slave bleeder.

mcguiver3, the only problem with threaded rod is that it doesn't have the tensil strength to stay straight and it can eventually bend under pressure. Some have used valvetrain pushrods cut down. The tubular design is more resistant to bending than a solid rod.

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 08-28-2012).]

actually I did mean solid rod not threaded.
I have done it twice now on 2 different cars and no ill effects.