Since the clutch master cylinder doesn't need to be bench bled, can we get the proper way to bench bleed the brake master cylinder??

I suppose you need to bench bleed a rebuilt unit or unless the master has run dry due to a brake line leak.

This would be a good idea / write up to get info that the brake master is the only part that needs to be "bench bled" ONLY.

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fierogt28

88 GT, Loaded, 5-speed.
88 GT, 5-speed. All original.

Bump...

Get a bench-bleeder kit. This will consist of a bunch of plastic threaded inserts and a couple rubber lines. I think they're still available at any autoparts store or you can make one using a couple steel lines that fit the threaded ports on the master.

Step 1: Mount the master in a vise with the reservoir installed on the master.
Step 2: Install the bleeder lines into the master and run the other ends into the top of the reservoir. If you're using the kit, find the inserts that fit the threads of you master.
Step 3: Add brake fluid.
Step 4: I use a #3 Phillips screwdriver but anything that won't scratch up the end of the piston can be used for this step. Use the screwdriver to push the piston in all the way then release. This will take a bit of muscle to accomplish and go slow or you may end up with a bigger mess. The piston will retract on its own once released. Do this several times.

You should notice air bubbles being forced out the end of the bleeder lines as you push on the piston. Pay attention to the fluid level. If it gets low enough that the ends of the lines are no longer submerged in fluid, air will be sucked back into the master when the piston retracts. Not the end of the world but it will take longer if air keeps getting back into the master.

Once you no longer see air coming out the lines, you can then transfer the master to the car. I leave the bleeder kit installed while I'm doing this to keep fluid from coming out of the M/C ports. Brake fluid is not kind to paint so I do all that I can to keep fluid from getting on the car. Keep a bucket of water handy. It does a good job of washing brake fluid off anything you don't want it on.

Once the master is on the car and the lines are hooked back up, I'll open the bleeders up on the calipers and let the system gravity bleed until I have new fluid coming out of the bleeders. Place the car on jackstands and take all the wheels off. Put something down to catch the draining fluid and re-tighten each bleeder as soon as you can see new fluid coming out of it. If I'm replacing the master, I usually do a complete flush of the old fluid due to possible contamination.

Lastly, I'll power bleed the calipers just to make sure I have all the air out of the system.

Hope this helps,
Gary

What is power bleeding or how do you do it?

Make sure you grab the MC in a vice by the flange not the body. If you grab it by the body you can warp it if you clamp it down to tight.

That probably wasn't the correct thing to call it.

Basically, I start the car up on stands (wheels off) and have a helper (I've also used a telescopic prop rod when I'm alone) push and hold the brakes while I bleed each of the calipers again.

Gary