Where can I find a caliper pin removal tool for 88 GT as outlined in the GM repair manual. Any other tricks to do the pin removal with out damaging the pins?

Thanks, Doug

I've usually just used a punch. If you're just doing pads, it can be easier to unbolt the whole front piece from the caliper and leave the pins in place. That's the method i use now anyway, the difficulty in unbolting that piece may vary.

I've done it both ways, and I agree that splitting the caliper bridge is probably the better method. If you're changing pads it allows you to remove and inspect the rotors. Just be sure to torque the bridge bolts to 74 ft-lb when reassembling, and use a torque wrench!

I couldn't get mine free using a punch or a slide hammer, so I split the caliper. It's the ONLY way I will do it going forward. As others pointed put, make sure you torque the bolts correctly. It's a braking system after all, your life and the lives of others rely on those bolts being tightened correctly.

Thanks!!!

Josh

Go to Ebay and key in the GM tool number. At some point you'll find one.

Earlier this year I got both the pin removal tool, and the rear cailper piston rotator tool off Ebay. I tell you what, that rotator tool is the right tool for the job. Once you get it positioned on the piston face, it will rotate the piston back without damaging the piston seal.

But if you plan to buy the slide hammer pin puller, you will likely need to also buy an OTC 557479, which is an adapter that you'll need in order to use the pin puller on the slide hammer (provided your slide hammer has 5/8"-18 thread at the pulling end). I had to get one of these adapters, and it took a while to acquire becasue no one carries them in stock.

Also, to reinstall the pins you should buy a brass roll pin punch. I got a Grace BRP14 from a gunsmith for this. The brass punch was less than $10, and it is the right tool to reinstall the pins.

[This message has been edited by lateFormula (edited 08-29-2011).]

I use a 4 penny cut nail (concrete/masonary nail). I looked through a few until I found one thats "just" the right size. I have put pads all the way around without a problem. I keep it in my tool box now. Im sure a punch will work fine if the tip is broad enough. Too sharp of a point will spread the end open and defeat the entire purpose of what you are trying to do. Its an easy enough job and the slide tool is a waste of money in my opinion

When unbolting to splitting the caliper bridge, it looks like it would be best while the caliper is still mounted steering knuckle, maybe?

I would like to try this method to replace the pads.

Will one end of the caliper (spring) pin stay in the rear caliper half while coming out of the front half, or vice versa, when you pull the halves apart?

Thanks for the help.

[This message has been edited by hdryder (edited 11-25-2012).]

The best and quickest way is to use the same size diameter "brass" punch.

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fierogt28

88 GT, Loaded, 5-speed.
88 GT, 5-speed. All original.

quote Originally posted by Basic88: I use a 4 penny cut nail (concrete/masonary nail). I looked through a few until I found one thats "just" the right size. I have put pads all the way around without a problem. I keep it in my tool box now. Im sure a punch will work fine if the tip is broad enough. Too sharp of a point will spread the end open and defeat the entire purpose of what you are trying to do. Its an easy enough job and the slide tool is a waste of money in my opinion

I agree with the method, but in my case I happened to find a punch just the right size

Today after work, I just used a 1/4" punch to drive the pins inward toward the inside caliper half, then seperated the caliper bridge to get the old pads out, then install the new pads. Then bolted the calipers together, torqued to spec. Then drove the pins back into the outer caliper half.
It worked great.

quote Originally posted by hdryder: Today after work, I just used a 1/4" punch to drive the pins inward toward the inside caliper half, then seperated the caliper bridge to get the old pads out, then install the new pads. Then bolted the calipers together, torqued to spec. Then drove the pins back into the outer caliper half. It worked great.

It's not really necessary to drive the pins anywhere. Once you remove the bolts, the bridge will just slide off the ends of the pins.
They are a press fit in the back half. The front half just supports the other ends of the pins.

OK, I need to do the rear brake pads today. I will try that.

Thanks for the help.

quote Originally posted by hdryder: OK, I need to do the rear brake pads today. I will try that. Thanks for the help.

Splitting the rear bridges is a bit more difficult b/c of the e-brake spring bracket...but not much.

I always use blue locktite when torquing the bridges back together...any one else? I'm just concerned about them coming loose...added precaution.

I replaced the rear pads last night after work without moving the pins, and the e-brake spring bracket issue did not seem too difficult.

Thanks for the heads up!