anyone ever removed a crank pulley bolt while the engine was on a stand. i need to break it loose and everything is working against me. looking for some tips/advice on how to keep everything else from spinning. impact gun isn't strong enough.

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First thing I can think of is jamming the flywheel on the other side if its still there..
If not, put it back on just for this job

yea, it's not on there, but it looks like that is what I will have to do.

In the past I've used an electric impact gun, but you said you already did that.

I've also dropped the oil pan and wedged the crank with a block of wood.

Oil pan is off. I will try this tomorrow. Thanks for the tip. + for you

I made something like this - Only one hook but adjustable. Great for when you are under the car and you need to keep the engine from rotating. You are going to need something like this when you have to torque the flywheel and pressure plate bolts.



I'm too lazy to go get it from the garage and take a pic of it.

see also http://www.lislecorp.com/
They have flywheel tool but you need a helper.

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[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 01-16-2011).]

quote Originally posted by Genopsyde: impact gun isn't strong enough.

Buy a stronger impact gun. I have one that generates 900 ft-lbs and it spun off my crank pulley with no problems.

Rich. I bolted a piece of steel to the crank flange to hold the crank in place.

Heat it up. I was having lots of problems trying to break the one on my LS4 loose until I heated it up. Even a 4 ft long breaker bar couldn't knock it loose. Heated it up and it came right off.

Oh, and to keep the crank from turning, I wedged a thick bar through one of the holes in the flywheel and pressed against the block and the engine stand, when the engine upside down. If you already pulled the flywheel though, that won't work.

[This message has been edited by dobey (edited 01-16-2011).]

there is the volvo rope trick
as volvo need the bolt and pulley off to change the cam belts

at a little before top dead center on cylinder #1
pull the plug and feed in soft 1/4'' nylon rope to fill the cylinder
double check you are on compression stroke and not 360 out
donot forget to remove the rope after your done

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Question wonder and be wierd
are you kind?

How long did you try the impact. Sometimes you have to let it hammer for a while and it will finally give. Once it moves it will fly off quickly.

RayB, the heads are pulled too

I will try as many of these suggestions as I can and post back with which one works.

vise grips on both sides of the flywheel. They will stop with the lower engine stand mount on the engine. A little heat on the bolt and whamo. happy dance!!

Put two longer bolts in the crankshaft where the flywheel attaches. Put them 180* apart and wedge a crowbar between them and the engine stand bracket that attaches to the rear of the block. that will keep the crank from turning.

quote Originally posted by ray b: there is the volvo rope trick as volvo need the bolt and pulley off to change the cam belts at a little before top dead center on cylinder #1 pull the plug and feed in soft 1/4'' nylon rope to fill the cylinder double check you are on compression stroke and not 360 out donot forget to remove the rope after your done

"RayB, the heads are pulled too"

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Just bolt a head back on! Takes two minutes and a couple of the bolts.

[This message has been edited by fyrebird68 (edited 01-17-2011).]

True, but they are out for machining...

Put two bolts back in the crank flange opposite each other. Put a long prybar or wrench or screwdriver or something between the bolts and wedge against the engine stand bars. Maybe use some tape to hold it in place. Undo bolt on crank pulley.

use a chain wrench on the balancer. If you're worried about damage to the balancer, wrap it with a piece of serpentine belt (l hold in lace with duct tape). While you hold the chain wrench, have a helper hit it with the impact.
http://www.harborfreight.co...ain-clamp-36813.html

I would be cautious about gripping the outer ring of the dampener. There's a rubber connector between it and the hub, and it's possible (though not likely) that this will damage that rubber and ruin the dampener.

yea, definitely don't want to damage anything. I need to remove it and ship it to a member here.

I always just use an impact wrench. Never had one that didnt fly off yet.

my impact must not be strong enough, because it won't budge. I won't have time to mess with it until saturday, I may pick up a better impact.

You do know that impact wrench has a 2 position trigger, right? Just saying.......
Send prize to @#$%% E#$$

Spoon

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Two yeast spent their entire life "about 2 days" discussing what the purpose of life could be and not once did they even come close to the fact that they were making champagne. Quoted by: Unknown

yes, i'm quite familiar with how it operates. it's a light duty model, like not even 200 ft lbs of tq.

Considering your situation, I would go for the block of wood wedged between one of the crank counter weights and the engine block. As for your impact gun, one thing that determines it's performance is your compressors CFM and the inner diameter of your air supply line/hose.

quote Originally posted by TONY_C: Put two longer bolts in the crankshaft where the flywheel attaches. Put them 180* apart and wedge a crowbar between them and the engine stand bracket that attaches to the rear of the block. that will keep the crank from turning.

Did you try this method?

quote Originally posted by Genopsyde: anyone ever removed a crank pulley bolt while the engine was on a stand. i need to break it loose and everything is working against me. looking for some tips/advice on how to keep everything else from spinning. impact gun isn't strong enough.

i always put a socket on the crank, put a long pipe on the breaker bar, and wedge it into something, then trip the starter quickly, and it cracks the bolt loose

quote Originally posted by stickpony: i always put a socket on the crank, put a long pipe on the breaker bar, and wedge it into something, then trip the starter quickly, and it cracks the bolt loose

Works great in the car. Not so much on an engine stand.

quote Originally posted by dobey: Works great in the car. Not so much on an engine stand.

and why not? ive done it before on engine stands no problem.

quote Originally posted by stickpony: and why not? ive done it before on engine stands no problem.

Well, if you have the starter on it still, and wire it up, I guess, sure. But it wouldn't work for my LS4 at all, since the starter mounts on the trans. And starter is usually one of the first accessories removed when pulling an engine/putting it on a stand.

Ray b, I think you meant to say AFTER top dead center so that the piston can NOT go backwards, and it would not matter what stroke it is on.


Genopsyde, have you gotten it loose yet?

[This message has been edited by pop (edited 01-23-2011).]

no, didn't really get to try. it's very cold in northeast ohio right now...

bolt and pulley are removed.

I used the block of wood between the crank and block, also had to heat up the pulley around the bolt.

It's weird how it wouldn't break loose with a breaker bar with a floor jack handle on it for additional leverage, but once a little bit of heat, and i mean very little, i was able to get it with the breaker bar just.

Having trouble with my crank pulley, and I just thought I should mention that if anyone does use heat, do NOT reuse the heated bolts. You'd be surprised how much the properties of the metal can change. Good luck to everyone who has to do this!

I made a bracket out of a metal bar to hold the crankshaft pulley while I removed the bolt. The pulley (actually a damper) had holes in it to attach the bracket to.