The average Fiero has never had the wheel bearing greased !!
many think the fiero wheel bearing are to small,they are find ,most of us are lazy like me,but if there is any sign of waver,unsteadyness in the front end while cracking down the hiway at 75mph on the way to a big foot sighting , check the outter wheel bearing,,grease them every 3 years .
of course you should also check the inner bearings ,but regrease the outer bearings,, this is with in any ones capability.grease ball joint fittings while in that area
Place a big glob(tech term) of grease in one palm,press bearing into grease & you will see grease forced into new or old bearings ..
Americans have demanded Chinese bearing,, insisted on them ,rejected higher quality USA bearings ,getting harder to find USA made ,,ASK for USA or east european bearings they have better steel,or jap,, the cost is only a little more avoid chinesse bearing they have high failure rate..
if you are not skilled at mechanical work & you have a bad bearing ,and you need the car NOW to drive to liquor store ,the crack house ,or cat house you can use a new bearing in the old race.if not pitted or scored.you will know easily if it works..


I might not know what Im doing ,BUT do it well & quickly..

I just did this on my 86. It has TIMKEN bearings in it, they do look fine, but the grease was stiff and somewhat displaced from the bearing rollers. I cleaned out the old grease as best I could. I removed the brake calipers and took the rotors off (which have the bearing races in them). This is also a good time to inspect and replace your brake pads. I put a bunch of brand new moly bearing grease in the outer bearing, I packed a bunch of grease in the inner bearing too, then smeared a bunch in between them in the gap in the center of the rotor. Then put it all back together and tightened the nut finger snug, then just a little more with a wrench and put new cotter pins in.

While doing this I noticed there was a blue paint smear on each axle nut, wonder if that was factory?

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 02-09-2012).]

Do not switch side if all bearings are out at same time.
Get new seal before you start this job. Seals are easy to wreck.

Clean out all the old grease!

Just let bearing set in 1 pint of gas, paint thinner, etc. Use small stick to stir it.
Let it Dry!
them repack w/ new wheel bearing grease that is safe for disk brakes. Label doesn't say? get new grease!

Clean the outer race and Coat w/ more grease.

Do Not fill hub's middle section w/ extra grease. Just a coat to keep rust out. Same thing w/ the spindle's middle area.

A small coat of grease on spindle seal area to lube the seal.

For torquing etc, See my cave, Front Bearing in axle section.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

quote Originally posted by theogre: them repack w/ new wheel bearing grease that is safe for disk brakes. Label doesn't say? get new grease!

Hmm, I don't know if mine was or not. Are there any characteristics to the grease itself I would recognize? Otherwise what happens if it wasn't disk brake safe?

It will melt and run out of the bearings. Disc brake safe grease can withstand the higher temperatures generated by disc brakes.

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1986 SE Aero coupe. 3.4 DOHC swap is underway!

quote Originally posted by tesmith66: It will melt and run out of the bearings. Disc brake safe grease can withstand the higher temperatures generated by disc brakes.

This tube has been loaded in my grease gun for over a year. I suppose I will have to pull the grease tube out of the gun and check. That'll be messy. Hmm, I would think I had disc brake bearing grease. Wonder why thats not all that is sold in stores since it would work in drum brake bearings too right?

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 02-09-2012).]

quote Originally posted by tesmith66: It will melt and run out of the bearings. Disc brake safe grease can withstand the higher temperatures generated by disc brakes.

Yes, Grease label will say disc brake safe, etc... (Use w/ Automotive Drum brake bearings too.)
Example: http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=SL3161

quote Applications: Automotive applications, ball joints, bearings, chassis points, construction ball & roller bearings, conveyor bearings, disc-brake systems, farm equipment, guides, mining applications, press rolls, roller bearings, slides, wheel bearings

Many greases, included wheel bearing greases, can't take high temp that disc brake can generate.
Example: http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=SL3131

quote Applications: Drum brake systems, for use where heavy loads & slow speeds are present

This isn't made for Automotive applications...

Maybe ok for awhile but If in doubt then really need to redo the job.

This is what I use...

It's quite inexpensive at Walmart, although I just noticed online that none of my local Walmarts carry it any longer.

Well I pulled the tube out and looked, its drop point is only 350 degrees F minimum. Looks like I'll be removing the grease and re packing it with some hi temp stuff.

quote Originally posted by Patrick: This is what I use.. It's quite inexpensive at Walmart, although I just noticed online that none of my local Walmarts carry it any longer.

I can't find that at castrol.com either... Many "Multi-purpose" grease are not made for Automotive wheel bearing. Too low working temp. (try contacting Castrol)

Wheel bearing grease, see Castrol High Temp grease

Yes, Rework the job does suck. Have bearing fry off in heavy traffic sucks far worse... Heavy traffic likely = heavy brake use and will heat the bearings and grease the most. Even vented rotors will heat up since low speed = low air movement to cool off.

I was pretty sure that you're not supposed to clean bearings with gasoline. I think I read that in a magazine or a manual or something. Any thoughts?

Don't '88's have sealed berarings?

[This message has been edited by White Spyder (edited 02-11-2012).]

quote Originally posted by FreakyFastFiero: I was pretty sure that you're not supposed to clean bearings with gasoline. I think I read that in a magazine or a manual or something. Any thoughts?

Only because of a fire hazard. Many of us idiots have done that for years.

And yes, 2.5, I would think about changing that grease out. I use high temp paint on my calipers/rotors to keep them shiney and new. On a run last fall, I got pretty hard on my brakes during a mountain run. The 1100 degree paint is discoloured around the caliper's hub. I imagine it got a few degrees over 350.

One great thing about Stan, he does tell it like it is. And that can save lives.

Tony

PS. That Orge guy is pretty great too.

quote Originally posted by FreakyFastFiero: I was pretty sure that you're not supposed to clean bearings with gasoline. I think I read that in a magazine or a manual or something. Any thoughts?

quote Originally posted by Tony Kania: Only because of a fire hazard. Many of us idiots have done that for years.

Myself included...
Fire hazard? Not quite... Many solvents are same or worse on Flammability list. See product's MSDS and cave, bad chemicals in safely section. Gas is now lead free but still have ingredients that will be absorb by skin. So don't use your fingers to stir etc. ("Lead" or "Ethyl" gas had TEL and very easy to absorb by skin, breath it, and more.)

In fact, Keep skin out of and get plenty of air for venting for Any solvent use. Carb/EFI cleaner, brake cleaner, gun solvent, and more are not friends to your health.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 02-11-2012).]

quote Originally posted by theogre: Clean out all the old grease! Just let bearing set in 1 pint of gas, paint thinner, etc. Use small stick to stir it. Let it Dry!

X2. Mineral Spirits (a.k.a. generic paint thinner) or Stoddard Solvent are effective, relatively inexpensive, less volatile than gasoline, and thus somewhat safer. Straight D-Limonene (derived from citrus fruit peels) also works well and is both non-toxic and environmentally friendly, but it is considerably more expensive than most petroleum-based solvents.

FWIW, you can use compressed air to "blow dry" a bearing after solvent washing, but avoid the temptation to use the air to spin the bearing dry. It is easy to overspeed a bearing this way and permanently damage it. (Every ball/roller bearing has a "maximum rpm" specification that should never be exceeded.)

quote ... repack w/ new wheel bearing grease that is safe for disk brakes. Label doesn't say? get new grease!

The wheel bearing grease specification to look for is NLGI (National Lubricating Grease Institute) performance classification "GC." NLGI classifications GA, GB, and GC are all applicable to wheel bearing greases, with GC being the highest standard. Corresponding performance categories for chassis grease are LA and LB, with LB being the higher standard. Most top quality greases these days will be labeled NLGI GC-LB. See ASTM Specification D 4950 (2004) for detailed information. As with modern motor oils, full synthetic greases are usually superior to petroleum-based greases and the best synthetics may exceed the GC-LB specification by a large margin. For example, Mobil1 Synthetic Grease (automotive) exceeds the GC dropping point temperature requirement by 138 C (248 F)!

I am planning to post a grease tutorial here on PFF some day. I have completed most of the research but it's still not ready yet. My working title is Grease 101: More Than You Ever Wanted To Know About Chassis and Wheel Bearing Grease. In the meantime, here is a table I prepared comparing two top quality synthetic GC-LB greases. Either one should be an excellent choice for use in our Fieros. Stay tuned.

quote Do Not fill hub's middle section w/ extra grease. Just a coat to keep rust out. Same thing w/ the spindle's middle area.

This is an important point. Too much grease will lead to "churning," which can overheat the grease and force it past seals.

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 02-13-2012).]

quote Originally posted by theogre: Myself included... Fire hazard? Not quite...

We just had a fella die in a gasoline fire last week here. He was doing a brake job.

But, you are definately correct in everything that you wrote.

Tony

quote Originally posted by uhlanstan: Place a big glob(tech term) of grease in one palm,press bearing into grease & you will see grease forced into new or old bearings

A Zip-Loc bag works really well for this. You put the grease and the bearing in the bag, and seal it. Then you knead the bag until the bearing assembly is completely saturated with grease. It usually only takes a few seconds. With the bag, you can work the grease into the bearing more effectively than by hand.

I've had good results with both the lithium and "moly" (molybdenum disulfide) wheel bearing grease. But as mentioned above, the important part is to get grease specifically for wheel bearings. Because the wheel bearings get pretty hot during heavy braking.

[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 02-11-2012).]

It is interesting the hi temp grease for disc brakes says on the tube for temps between 0 and 375 F. But the actual drop point, the point the grease melts is 500F. It does not say this on the package I looked it up online. This is what you want for disc brake bearings. It could be confusing because the stuff I used first (and now removed) said "drop point minimum 350F", that is all it listed for numbers on the package.
So it is true if it doesn't say "for disc brakes" don't use it for disc brakes.

i use this stuff.

Gas is a great cleaner & is used because it is available,once the bearing is removed from the gas & air dryed there is no danger of a flame off,I finish clean with a spray from my brake cleaner spray can purchased for 1/3 price.cheap,cheap
this post is aimed at the novice & quick fix
the washer that presses against the bearing?? this should be firmly tighten against the bearing to make sure it is seated in the race ,,then you back it off just enough to drop the cotter pin in the hole.
bearings are machine to a higher standard than they were years ago, when i left my mothers cave,I understand the fear many inexperienced can feel when faced with driving the old race out..You can use the new bearing in the old race if it is not scored,& it seems to fit.when a lot of time is available,, Later you can drive the old bearing out and install the new bearing race.
60% of the time if you lay hub in sun & let SUN heat the hub,for an hour , the race is easier to drive out .just plug bearing hole with paper so interior is not as hot..

quote Originally posted by 2.5: So it is true if it doesn't say "for disc brakes" don't use it for disc brakes.

My point, perhaps not very well made, is that "for disc brakes" labeling is a marketing claim that, by itself, doesn't tell you anything about the technical properties of the grease in question. It's not unusual for a manufacturer to sell a "general purpose grease" in one package and sell exactly the same grease (perhaps dyed a different color) in a different package labeled "for disc brakes," almost always at different price points.

Instead, look for a grease labeled "NLGI GC" or "NLGI GC-LB." With this label you can be sure that it meets a whole range of test specifications for chassis and wheel bearing grease and is suitable for use with disc brakes.

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 02-12-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Marvin McInnis: look for a grease labeled "NLGI GC" or "NLGI GC-LB." With this label you can be sure that it meets a whole range of test specifications for chassis and wheel bearing grease and is suitable for use with disc brakes.

Example:

Thanks, Ogre.

For reference, here is a link to a web page that lists NLGI-certified greases from many manufacturers. Once you have picked your favorite GC-LB rated brand, there are three more very important grease properties that you need to verify. You probably won't find all of this information on the product label, so you may have to go to the manufacturer's web site to find it:

• NLGI Consistency Grade: This is a measure of the bulk "thickness" of a grease. #2 is by far the most common grade for automotive chassis and wheel bearing use.
  
  
• Oil Viscosity: For automotive use, look for an oil viscosity in the range of 150 to 250 cSt (centiStokes) at 40C. In general, lower viscosity is better suited to applications like ball and roller bearings, while higher viscosity is better for slow moving, heavily loaded bearings like ball joints and actuator linkages. I have seen GC-LB rated greases with oil viscosities ranging from less than 90 cSt to higher than 630 cSt, but around 200 cSt seems typical for modern automotive greases. Just like in motor oils, the oil used in a synthetic grease will maintain its viscosity over a wider range of temperatures than in a petroleum-based grease ... i.e. synthetic greases have a higher (better) viscosity index.
  
  
• Thickener Type: The thickener is what gives grease its pastelike bulk consistency, and there are about a dozen types to choose from ... aluminum, barium, calcium, clay, lithium, polyurea, etc. Since mixing different thickener types can drastically lower the dropping point of a grease (sometimes as low as room temperature!), you want to choose a thickener type that's compatible with the grease already in use. Lithium Stearate (i.e. simple lithium soap) or Lithium Complex are the most common thickeners for automotive use, so if in doubt choose a grease based on one of those. Greases compounded with Lithium Complex thickeners will have a higher dropping point and a higher working temperature than those made with Lithium Stearate thickeners.
  
  From this source:
  
  
  
  C = Compatible
  B = Borderline (not recommended)
  I = Incompatible
  - = (compatible with self)
  

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 01-19-2013).]

quote Originally posted by theogre: I can't find that (Castrol Syntec Multi-Purpose Grease) at castrol.com either... Many "Multi-purpose" grease are not made for Automotive wheel bearing. Too low working temp. (try contacting Castrol) Wheel bearing grease, see Castrol High Temp grease

I suspect Castrol might be in the process of changing their packaging (if not the products themselves) and what I previously bought is now This.

I found the following Here. This is what I've been using for years. The "new" stuff is exactly the same. The specs look good to me.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 02-13-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Patrick: This is what I've been using for years. The "new" stuff is exactly the same. The specs look good to me.

That looks like another excellent GC-LB rated synthetic chassis and wheel bearing grease. I would want to know the viscosity of the base oil used, though.

quote Originally posted by joshh44: i use this stuff.

Another good-looking GC-LB grease. Consulting the Lucas product data sheet, it's the first automotive grease I've seen that uses a polyurea thickener; be careful about compatibility with any old grease remaining in the bearings. Of course, if you solvent wash (and dry) everything before regreasing then thickener compatibility will be a non-issue.

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 02-14-2012).]

If you are packing the bearings correctly, the old grease will be forced out by the new. Of course new bearings are so cheap, just get them, pack em' and be done.

At least that what I have most always done for 30+ years.

[This message has been edited by Mike Allen (edited 02-15-2012).]

Thank you for all the informative post,,I hope this helps some of the newer fiero buffs,& lurkers from the Studebaker clan.