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HOW TO: remove rubber control arm suspension bushings by Chubbs
Started on: 02-03-2012 09:27 AM
Replies: 8
Last post by: Chubbs on 02-03-2012 02:01 PM
Chubbs
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Report this Post02-03-2012 09:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ChubbsSend a Private Message to ChubbsDirect Link to This Post
After doing quite a bit of reading about how to remove my rubber suspension bushings to go to polyurethane, I decided heat was the easiest way to get them out. As it turned out, there's a right and a wrong way to use heat. I have seen pictures of people just lighting them on fire and letting them burn out....that is wrong. I tried it, it doesn't work.

I also tried drilling them out, and although that did work, it was labor intensive, frustrating, and messy.

I made a couple of videos showing the "correct" way to get them out. I hope this helps someone. If it looks pretty easy, that's because it is when done right. I managed to get both the sleeve and the rubber bushing out using 1 hand and holding the my cell phone camera with the other.

How to remove the inner sleeves:


How to remove the bushing itself:

[This message has been edited by Chubbs (edited 02-03-2012).]

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KaijuSenso
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Report this Post02-03-2012 09:41 AM Click Here to See the Profile for KaijuSensoSend a Private Message to KaijuSensoDirect Link to This Post
I appreciate the videos (would have more before I did my suspension overhaul). Luckily that's how I did it, but didn't remove the inner sleeve first, just headed up the outside of the bushing until it started bubbling out the sides and popped them out with a large punch.

Anyway good videos, I hope they help some people.
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Chubbs
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Report this Post02-03-2012 09:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ChubbsSend a Private Message to ChubbsDirect Link to This Post
I thought of removing the entire bushing without removing the center sleeve first, but I didn't think it would come out as easy. Guess I learned something new today! Next time I'll just try removing the whole bushing at once and save myself some time.
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fieroguru
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Report this Post02-03-2012 11:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruDirect Link to This Post
I will probably post a video this weekend, but there is no need to remove the inner sleeve.
In fact, by just applying contsant head to the outer sleeve, the bushing will self extract once there is a film of melted rubber between the sleeve and inner bushing. Most people just do not wait long enough, but this method is zero labor effort. Just setup up the arm and torch to it can apply constant heat, sit back and wait...

Just make sure you plan for the molten/flaming rubber bushing to pop out and keep it from bouncing all over and catching something else on fire.
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DimeMachine
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Report this Post02-03-2012 12:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DimeMachineSend a Private Message to DimeMachineDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

I will probably post a video this weekend, but there is no need to remove the inner sleeve.
In fact, by just applying contsant head to the outer sleeve, the bushing will self extract once there is a film of melted rubber between the sleeve and inner bushing. Most people just do not wait long enough, but this method is zero labor effort. Just setup up the arm and torch to it can apply constant heat, sit back and wait...

Just make sure you plan for the molten/flaming rubber bushing to pop out and keep it from bouncing all over and catching something else on fire.


AGREED!

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87 Formula Clone, 3800SC, 3.4 Pulley, 4T65E-HD, HP Tuners, AEM Wideband, 12.98 at 103.4 1/4 mile, Regal GS Gauge Cluster, S-10 Brake Booster Upgrade.

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theogre
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Report this Post02-03-2012 01:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
First video...
Yes. Right way.

Second video...
Torch should not be needed at all. Rubber can stick a bit but Most CA bushings are not bonded to outer sleeve.
Once inner sleeve is gone.
Use a big flat screwdriver on big end of rubber go in between rubber and sleeve, pry on the rubber.
Big enough can pry w/o wrecking the tool.
Screwdriver Goes in 1/4-1/2 of bushing thickness.

I don't have anything to show you. I've done it many times.

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mram10
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Report this Post02-03-2012 01:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mram10Send a Private Message to mram10Direct Link to This Post
I can post the WRONG way to get the mounts out of the cradle if is helps

Thank you for posting videos like this. We need a How To section of videos to help newbies like myself.

[This message has been edited by mram10 (edited 02-03-2012).]

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weaselbeak
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Report this Post02-03-2012 01:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for weaselbeakSend a Private Message to weaselbeakDirect Link to This Post
Us pyromaniacs just love FIRE !!
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Chubbs
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Report this Post02-03-2012 02:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ChubbsSend a Private Message to ChubbsDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by theogre:


Second video...
Torch should not be needed at all. Rubber can stick a bit but Most CA bushings are not bonded to outer sleeve.
Once inner sleeve is gone.
Use a big flat screwdriver on big end of rubber go in between rubber and sleeve, pry on the rubber.
Big enough can pry w/o wrecking the tool.
Screwdriver Goes in 1/4-1/2 of bushing thickness.

I don't have anything to show you. I've done it many times.



Oh man, believe me I tried. I tore out 2 bushings piece by piece with screw drivers, pliers, punches...I even used a drill and a hole saw. My rubber bushings were completely fused to the outer sleeves in places. The entire bushing wasn't fused, just parts of it, but those parts were enough to keep the whole bushing in.

If my car were newer or maybe in better shape, I believe you that they would have popped out. But for whatever reason mine didn't budge. A torch was the only thing that worked.
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