I had my connecting rod ends on a counter, lined up as they had come out of the engine, and then a cat in the garage did not like this, and they were scattered on the floor.

They have (mostly) sequential numbers stamped on them, but they don't exactly make sense, and some have two numbers.

image of the connecting rod end caps.

The numbers going right-left;bottom-top are:

5;1
7;2
3;N/A
4;3
7;N/A
6;N/A

So that is fun.

The engine is still in the car, the crankshaft is coming out tomorrow.

Is it possible to match the wear and grinding marks since the ends and rods are machined together? Are there identifying marks on the connecting rods themselves?

I also found This on how to do it with plastigage.

So, suggestions, similar experiences, etc? any help is appreciated.

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1988 2.8L Formula

I think if you bolt a cap on a rod you will easily be able to tell if it is a match by just feeling how the two mate up on the inside. Guess you could also get them close and have a machine shop true up the rods bores which is common to be done any way. Larry

When rods are produced, the cap and rod are final machined as 1 unit. Look at the machine work on the faces of the rod and cap, you should be able to easily match up the markings. It's not really all that tough, but you need good eyes. I think the best evidence is near the bolts on the edge of the cap and rod.

I think I'll try a combination of eyeballing it and plastigage, but I have to get the crank replaced or reground first. Some should be easy to identify at least a couple of them since the reason I'm in there in the first place is oil starvation causing some issues and the marks left from that should be evident on both ends of the connecting rods.

you will see matching markings on the rods .you would have to really try to get them mixed up .

quote Originally posted by wftb: you will see matching markings on the rods .you would have to really try to get them mixed up .

I never underestimate my own idiocy.

With theRods Still IN the engine, it's tough, but if you can move the crank enough to actually SEE all the markings both on the outside & where the bearing seats (Bearings out), you can do it. All rods are a "little "different,.as to when they Bore out the large end, if not right, you can make some rods with a larger hole & some with a smaller hole. Make SURE before you button it up. ***With the CRANK OUT, you can put the caps on, Torque them, then use a MIC to measure the large end hole, they must ALL be the same.

it wont be hard to see the rod markings because he is pulling the crank out .that will give enough room to get a good look at the markings .

quote Originally posted by wftb: it wont be hard to see the rod markings because he is pulling the crank out .that will give enough room to get a good look at the markings .

Okay, good to know.

I'll match by markers and surfaces, check with a micrometer, get the crank replaced/reground, once that is done I can plastigage with the proper bearings (since that wouldn't work with a ground journal anyway).

Wanting to be extra sure, I don't want to go through the process required to get to my crank again.

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1988 2.8L Formula

Have the rods resized. Should be done anyway during a rebuild

quote Originally posted by gusshotrod: Have the rods resized. Should be done anyway during a rebuild

What he said !!!

Is it worth to to guess at best?