Hi all,

Well its time to change the trans fluid on my 86 GT. Looked through pretty much 8 pages of current and archived topics on how to: preform it correctly, how to remove as much fluid as possible, and with minimal amount of spillage. The best method I have have come across would be The Ogre's way to do it as follows:

"1. With the car raised on jack stands and the front wheels blocked. Disconnect the bottom cooler line from the transmission.
2. Install a temporary piece of line long enough to reach a catch basin under the car. Make sure the line is aimed so oil can’t spray out of the pan. The oil will flow at a small amount of pressure. Anchor the line in the pan so it won’t jump out.
3. Set the parking brake. If the hand brake doesn't work then someone should stay in the car and hold the pedal tight.
4. Start the car and let it idle until oil flow stops. Shut off the car as soon as oil flow stops. DO NOT SHIFT THE CAR! DO NOT GET UNDER THE CAR WHILE IT IS RUNNING!
5. Let the car stand 5-10 minutes and then repeat step 3 one time.
6. Disconnect the top cooler hose and put the bottom line in a jar. Use low pressure, not more than 15-20PSI, compressed air to blow out the lines.
7. Reconnect the cooler lines to the transmission. (REPLACE the rubber lines if they are damaged or worn even slightly!)
8. Continue with the rest of the filter change procedure. Don’t forget to clean the magnet in the oil pan. (Note: Insert the filter bushing in the transmission then insert the filter neck.)
9. Take the car off the jacks.
10. When filling the transmission pour in 2-3 quarts of fresh Dexron III oil and start the car. Check the dipstick. Pour in more oil until the stick reads just below the full zone. (The oil is cold. You don’t want it to be over full when hot.)
11. Start the car and let the transmission warm up a few minutes. Put your foot on the brake and shift thru the gears. Check the fluid again. Drive it a block. Go fast enough for the car to hit third. (Don’t race!) Then recheck the fluid level one more time. Add more if needed to get the level to the middle of the full zone. "

Oil: Dexron lll
Filter: Varies

So just 2 questions to clear some things up:

1. Can we see a picture for "Disconnect the bottom cooler line from the transmission."
2. Can we see a picture for "Disconnect the top cooler hose"

I think that being said, for me, as well as others who are looking to change their ATF, we can finally have a central thread for members to go to, to understand fully how to preform a Transmission Fluid and Filter change!

Thanks everyone,
Tony

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Fieros......Gotta Love Em!

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/087369.html

[This message has been edited by nyranger6830 (edited 01-04-2012).]

Please state your Official credentials (other than the fact that you can type).

Look im just trying to get answers for myself while providing members with a reference point to go to if they need information on how to change their ATF.

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Fieros......Gotta Love Em!

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/087369.html

The cooler hoses uses normal hose clamp... Nothing much to see.

If hoses are bad then get hot oil rated hose. Sold for remote coolers etc. Most Fuel or vacuum line won't take the heat and oil and will blow out.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

I add a drain plug to all my GM trans so I don't have to disconnect any cooler lines. Nothing fancy, a B&M trans drain plug from the local parts store.

http://performanceparts.com/part/B-M/80250

If you are changing the filter I just put a big pan under the car and drop the trans cover. Once you have the bolts loose and pull it down a bit the fluid starts to seep out. You can 'persuade' most of it to come out at one spot but just pulling that end down more initially. Once the worst of the deluge is over, just drop the cover and remaining fluid into the pan.
I guess the Ogre's method does get rid of fluid in the lines though.

That said, I have yet to get the filter cover to seal properly again after removing it to change the filter. Tried new cover, new gaskets, any number of gasket sealers, still bloody leaked. I hate automatics, big, heavy and messy!

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Dave

www.ltlfrari.com

But, "This Method" does not get rid of the 2 plus Qts of dirty oil in the Converter ! For a 1 time thing, I drill a 1/8" hole in the converter (at the attaching LUG, using a magnet to keep any chips from going "in"), and let ALL the fluid drain completely. Then using a "blind" rivet ( covered with epoxy) I plug up the 1/8" drain hole. THEN refill the system. Never had a problem.

quote Originally posted by nyranger6830: Hi all, Well its time to change the trans fluid on my 86 GT. Looked through pretty much 8 pages of current and archived topics on how to: preform it correctly, how to remove as much fluid as possible, and with minimal amount of spillage. The best method I have have come across would be The Ogre's way to do it as follows: "1. With the car raised on jack stands and the front wheels blocked. Disconnect the bottom cooler line from the transmission. 2. Install a temporary piece of line long enough to reach a catch basin under the car. Make sure the line is aimed so oil can’t spray out of the pan. The oil will flow at a small amount of pressure. Anchor the line in the pan so it won’t jump out. 3. Set the parking brake. If the hand brake doesn't work then someone should stay in the car and hold the pedal tight. 4. Start the car and let it idle until oil flow stops. Shut off the car as soon as oil flow stops. DO NOT SHIFT THE CAR! DO NOT GET UNDER THE CAR WHILE IT IS RUNNING! 5. Let the car stand 5-10 minutes and then repeat step 3 one time. 6. Disconnect the top cooler hose and put the bottom line in a jar. Use low pressure, not more than 15-20PSI, compressed air to blow out the lines. 7. Reconnect the cooler lines to the transmission. (REPLACE the rubber lines if they are damaged or worn even slightly!) 8. Continue with the rest of the filter change procedure. Don’t forget to clean the magnet in the oil pan. (Note: Insert the filter bushing in the transmission then insert the filter neck.) 9. Take the car off the jacks. 10. When filling the transmission pour in 2-3 quarts of fresh Dexron III oil and start the car. Check the dipstick. Pour in more oil until the stick reads just below the full zone. (The oil is cold. You don’t want it to be over full when hot.) 11. Start the car and let the transmission warm up a few minutes. Put your foot on the brake and shift thru the gears. Check the fluid again. Drive it a block. Go fast enough for the car to hit third. (Don’t race!) Then recheck the fluid level one more time. Add more if needed to get the level to the middle of the full zone. " Oil: Dexron lll Filter: Varies So just 2 questions to clear some things up: 1. Can we see a picture for "Disconnect the bottom cooler line from the transmission." 2. Can we see a picture for "Disconnect the top cooler hose" I think that being said, for me, as well as others who are looking to change their ATF, we can finally have a central thread for members to go to, to understand fully how to preform a Transmission Fluid and Filter change! Thanks everyone, Tony

Tony: This method may work at getting out most of the transmisson fluid but it eventually runs the pump dry. If you catch it right away there will probably be no damage but if you let the transmisson run dry for too long you stand the risk of damaging it . I prefer the two hose in/out flush method better where a hose with fresh fluid is fed in and the old fluid is pumped into a bucket from the feed hose.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "