i need to know the size for the bolts that hold the slave cyl bracket to the trans, my bracket broke the other day, and might aswell put new bolts in while im putting int he new bracket.

They looked something like a M8-1.25. If no one responds by tonight i'll check for you though.... Its not like you cant drill the treads out and put whatever bolt you cant. I suggest getting a tap/die kit though. One VERY useful tool for the toolbox.

quote Originally posted by dutch13: They looked something like a M8-1.25. If no one responds by tonight i'll check for you though.... Its not like you cant drill the treads out and put whatever bolt you cant. I suggest getting a tap/die kit though. One VERY useful tool for the toolbox.

i have a tap and die set, sae and metric, kinda tight under that bracket tho, and i wanted to take some bolts home with me tonight as most places will be closed tomorrow :P

I always found it a pain to work with the bolts as they are. I replace mine with 1/4" bolts mounted to a U shaped piece of metal that goes over the slave to keep the bolts from turning. (I welded the bolts to the U on mine but you cold use nuts to hold them also).
Bolts point to the right side of the car and then put nuts on.
Make it so much easier to work on the slave if needed. Can pull it out in a 1 minute...

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 11-23-2011).]

quote Originally posted by Dodgerunner: I always found it a pain to work with the bolts as they are. I replace mine with 1/4" bolts mounted to a U shaped piece of metal that goes over the slave to keep the bolts from turning. (I welded the bolts to the U on mine but you cold use nuts to hold them also). Bolts point to the right side of the car and then put nuts on. Make it so much easier to work on the slave if needed. Can pull it out in a 1 minute...

we talking bout the same bolts?
im talking the ones that hold the bracket to the other brack w/ the "square" holes, not the 2 holding the slave cyl to the bracket. btw, dodge, ima send u a pm on a request

The P22 isn't super clear, but it seems to indicate that they're M12 X 1.75 X 45 (Grade 9.8)

If you have the old bolts, it's easy to measure them up to be certain you're getting the right ones. Use a metric ruler and hold the ruler across the shank of the bolt and measure the largest diameter of the threads. It's quite clear whether they're 10 or 12 mm diameter. Then, if it's a 10 mm bolt the thread pitch will be 1.5, and 1.75 for 12 mm diameter bolts. But you can double check by counting how many millimeters there are between threads. If there are 1.5 mm's then it's a 1.5 and obviously if there are 1.75 mm's between threads it's a 1.75. Next, measure the length of the bolt starting at the underside of the head. That will give you the length. Finally, look for the markings either 8.8 or 9.8 or 10.9 on the head to give you the grade.

Metric bolts are defined as follows: M(dia) X (thread pitch) X length followed by the grade in parentheses.

Edit to correct number of threads per cm.

[This message has been edited by Bloozberry (edited 11-23-2011).]

quote Originally posted by Bloozberry: The P22 isn't super clear, but it seems to indicate that they're M12 X 1.75 X 45 (Grade 9.8) If you have the old bolts, it's easy to measure them up to be certain you're getting the right ones. Use a metric ruler and hold the ruler across the shank of the bolt and measure the largest diameter of the threads. It's quite clear whether they're 10 or 12 mm diameter. Then, if it's a 10 mm bolt the thread pitch will be 1.5, and 1.75 for 12 mm diameter bolts. But you can double check by counting how many millimeters there are between threads. If there are 1.5 mm's then it's a 1.5 and obviously if there are 1.75 mm's between threads it's a 1.75. Next, measure the length of the bolt starting at the underside of the head. That will give you the length. Finally, look for the markings either 8.8 or 9.8 or 10.9 on the head to give you the grade. Metric bolts are defined as follows: M(dia) X (thread pitch) X length followed by the grade in parentheses. Edit to correct number of threads per cm.

hrm, ok, ill take home a nice range from m8-m12 lol..., just have to remember to bring back what i dont use :P

quote Originally posted by Bloozberry: The P22 isn't super clear, but it seems to indicate that they're M12 X 1.75 X 45 (Grade 9.8) If you have the old bolts, it's easy to measure them up to be certain you're getting the right ones. Use a metric ruler and hold the ruler across the shank of the bolt and measure the largest diameter of the threads. It's quite clear whether they're 10 or 12 mm diameter. Then, if it's a 10 mm bolt the thread pitch will be 1.5, and 1.75 for 12 mm diameter bolts. But you can double check by counting how many millimeters there are between threads. If there are 1.5 mm's then it's a 1.5 and obviously if there are 1.75 mm's between threads it's a 1.75. Next, measure the length of the bolt starting at the underside of the head. That will give you the length. Finally, look for the markings either 8.8 or 9.8 or 10.9 on the head to give you the grade. Metric bolts are defined as follows: M(dia) X (thread pitch) X length followed by the grade in parentheses. Edit to correct number of threads per cm.

they were 10x1.25x45
this "p22" you speak of, is this something i could get a copy of? theres a few more bolt sizes id like to know so i can replace a few things that just look a bit old before they are too bad to remove...

The P22 is the illustrated parts manual for the Fiero. The last time it was published was November 1990 and it was only ever issued to dealerships. It's the paper equivalent of the more modern computerized parts catalogue that they use now. Paper copies of the P22 would be hard to find although I thought I saw recently on PFF where there might be a downloadable version, so you could do a search or post a thread asking if anybody knows where the link is.

Otherwise, you can just ask which bolts you need the dimensions for and I or someone else can post the info for you. Most of the bolts are clearly shown. If you have troubles describing where the bolts are, just take a pictures and post them.

quote Originally posted by Bloozberry: The P22 is the illustrated parts manual for the Fiero. The last time it was published was November 1990 and it was only ever issued to dealerships. It's the paper equivalent of the more modern computerized parts catalogue that they use now. Paper copies of the P22 would be hard to find although I thought I saw recently on PFF where there might be a downloadable version, so you could do a search or post a thread asking if anybody knows where the link is. Otherwise, you can just ask which bolts you need the dimensions for and I or someone else can post the info for you. Most of the bolts are clearly shown. If you have troubles describing where the bolts are, just take a pictures and post them.

coolant tube clamps be the next thing i wana change the bolts in, then the ones that hold the brake line retaining mounts (where the metal line and the rubber line join) on on the rear wheels, where it bolts to the frame.

If by "the coolant tube clamps" you mean the ones that hold the metal tubes to the bottom of the car, then the P-Book lists them as self tapping screws. They're listed as strange size... M6.3 X 1.81 X 20. I would guess M6.3 could be substituted for a 1/4" self tapping screw since 6.3 mm's works out to 0.248".

As for the brake hose clamp screw, I wasn't sure if you meant the one that holds the bracket to the frame which is an M6.3 X 1.81 X 20 (so 1/4" self tapping), or the one that holds the hose clamp to the bracket which is an M8 X 1.25 X 16 (grade 9.8).

quote Originally posted by Bloozberry: If by "the coolant tube clamps" you mean the ones that hold the metal tubes to the bottom of the car, then the P-Book lists them as self tapping screws. They're listed as strange size... M6.3 X 1.81 X 20. I would guess M6.3 could be substituted for a 1/4" self tapping screw since 6.3 mm's works out to 0.248". As for the brake hose clamp screw, I wasn't sure if you meant the one that holds the bracket to the frame which is an M6.3 X 1.81 X 20 (so 1/4" self tapping), or the one that holds the hose clamp to the bracket which is an M8 X 1.25 X 16 (grade 9.8).

cool ty + for you.

self tapping... ugh, bad idea GM, bad idea...