ok ive read all the older threads on doing this i just had a few quesitons . i ordered the correct o ring from rodney dickman my question is on timing. i need to take a trip to pa tomorrow and dont want to put my car out of commission. ok so as long as i note the position of the dis. and position of the rotor when i pull it out i should have no problems with timing .. ????

ive read the dis. could give hassle coming out forcing you to try to turn it while pulling up thus giving you problems going back in and throwing off the timing .

also aside from the o ring is there a gasket for the dis. base ? where the dis. meets the block or can i place rtv sealent there and bolt it back down...

planning on doing this today and need to take a 3 hour drive to pa tomorrow morning..

The distributor WILL turn as you pull it up due to the angle cut drive gears.

You need to use a gasket under the base of the distributor - I don't recommend RTV for this.

You must adjust the timing with a timing light after pulling the distributor.

If it's not leaking too badly, wait until you get home to replace the o-ring, or if you must fix it before the trip, find someone with a timing light.

I'm pretty good with mechanics. (Not boasting) I have put distributors back in multiple times and gotten it wrong the first 1-2 times due to the curved teeth on the opposite end. I always can fix it, but if you haven't done this before don't do it before you need your car for a trip. Do it when you get back so you don't sabatage yourself. Usually putting the distributor back in is a little tricky, especially if you haven't done it more than once. My 2 cents

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thanks for the advice i wont mess with it ill just bring oil with me to refill in pa. everytime i move my car theres a small wet spot of oil.

as far as timing goes are there any videos i can watch on it here i think buddy craig did a video once if im not mistaken...

I removed my distributor and marked where the housing and the rotor were and when I reinstalled it I put it back exactly the same way and didn`t time it and it runs great.

Also, when you pull it make sure, if the oil pump shaft should happen to stay in the end of the distributor shaft that it doesn`t drop when you get it partly out.
I`m not sure if the shaft on the V-6 would go anywhere but I know it will on a small block Chevy.
Right down into the oil pan.

[This message has been edited by TXGOOD (edited 10-12-2011).]

Don't use RTV - you'll "glue" the distributor to the block (how you gonna set timing?). Get a base gasket.

See here: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/115983.html

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[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 10-12-2011).]

The base of the distributor, that's the part that the distributor cap screws down to and the module is attached to, can rotate independently of the distributor shaft, that's the part with the rotor on top. Before removing the distributor you need to make marks that show how the base is installed, and make marks showing how the shaft is aligned with the base. So basically, you'll have marks between the base and engine block, and the base and shaft. If you assemble it with those marks aligned properly your timing will not have changed. Note, your timing may not be correct, but it will be exactly as it was before you pulled the distributor.

Don't use metal tools to scrape the old O-ring out of the groove, doing so may damage the metal enough that you'll get a permanent oil leak.

I didn't use a base gasket when replacing my o-ring - is it required? Or is it just added insurance?

Adding this to favorites, I'll need to do this before spring too.

quote Originally posted by masospaghetti: I didn't use a base gasket when replacing my o-ring - is it required? Or is it just added insurance?

Coming from GM the distributors only used an O ring for sealing. It is quite adequate. After replacement I have never had one that leaked. A base gasket cannot hurt but with a new O ring its not necessary.

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great autozone has the gasket for sbc 350 ok now im waiting on the o ring to be delivered usps seems to have misplaced my rodney package...

quote Originally posted by olejoedad: You need to use a gasket under the base of the distributor

Seeing as how it came from the factory without a gasket there, I don't see the need to add one.

A high temp O-ring (such as what Rodney sells) does the job of sealing just fine.

Just make sure to put some lubricant on the O-ring before pushing the distributor back into the block.

If you mark everything and set it back to the same it should be fine, but if you add a gasket where there never was one it will change the timing. As the distributor lifts, the helical gears will change the timing...even by just the thickness of the gasket.

I like to do it like this:
Mark the base of the dist where it meets the block, mark the rotor to a point on the dist housing, make sure both marks line up when re-installing. DO NOT turn the crankshaft durring any of the procedure.

The good o-rings are usually identified by color. I've seen them in brown, blue and orange....never seen one in black. The good ones holds up to the oil and heat MUCH better than a black rubber o-ring.

quote Originally posted by 1fatcat: If you mark everything and set it back to the same it should be fine, but if you add a gasket where there never was one it will change the timing. As the distributor lifts, the helical gears will change the timing...even by just the thickness of the gasket. I like to do it like this: Mark the base of the dist where it meets the block, mark the rotor to a point on the dist housing, make sure both marks line up when re-installing. DO NOT turn the crankshaft durring any of the procedure. The good o-rings are usually identified by color. I've seen them in brown, blue and orange....never seen one in black. The good ones holds up to the oil and heat MUCH better than a black rubber o-ring.

Changes timing in a good way or bad way....? Advances it?

I have an o-ring I've had a while I think is from Rodney, either that or fierostore. It is black. Junk it or use it?

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 10-13-2011).]

quote Originally posted by 2.5: I have an o-ring I've had a while I think is from Rodney, either that or fierostore. It is black. Junk it or use it?

I don't know for absolutely sure, but I say it's just a regular O-ring.

The good ones, the high temp O-rings are a tan color (at least the Rodney ones are).

Actually, the factory likely used a Viton O-ring, they hold up OK to oil and high (relatively speaking) temperatures. When I rebuilt my engine I used Viton O-rings that I ordered in bulk from McMaster-Carr. That was 130K miles ago and still not leaking.

The tan fluorelastomer O-rings that Rodney sells were used by GM to replace the Viton O-rings on the oil pump drives for the 3.4 TDC engines. The oil pump drive for those engines is basically the lower part of a distributor. The cylinder heads on those engines overhangs the oil pump drive on those blocks, so an oil leak at that O-ring requires dismantling the cam drive system and pulling a cylinder head to replace. Telling a customer that it's going to cost them $2,000 to replace a 59 cent O-ring is bad ju-ju, hence the fluorelastomer replacement. I didn't know about them when I did my engine, otherwise would have used one. The fact it hasn't leaked so far is just luck.

I've had the distributor out at least twice without problems getting it back in and starting the car. I also drove without setting the timing from Thanksgiving to July. Just take a picture of the distributor before you start, after you take the cap off, and when the rotor stops turning as you pull it out. The distributor has marks already from the last time someone had it out. Add as many as you like, it will be hard to move it far from where it was and still get the wires from the coil plugged in, for instance. I "set the timing" by turning the distributor so the car would start easily. The timing light just made it start even better. The mileage didn't even change. Have fun in PA!

OK SOO DUE TO MY LUCK RODNEYS SHIPMENT HAS GOTTEN LOST IN THE MAIL DUE TO USPS NOT HIM...

IS THIS ALSO THE CORRECT O RING MADE BY DOORMAN... ITS THE SAME AS THE SECOND LINK BELOW.. THIS WAS ON ANOTHER THREAD SAME TOPIC... I KNOW RODNEYS IS PREFERRED BUT I CANNOT WAIT FOR ANOTHER SHIPMENT. I DROVE TO PA AND HAD TO BUY OIL TWICE DUE TO THE LEAK IM BACK IN NY TILL MONDAY AND THEN DRIVING BACK TO PA.. NEED THIS FIXED ASAP..

http://www.autozone.com/aut...ifier=347153_0_2826_


GM# 10477565

Felpro# 704841
https://napaonline.com/Cata...FPG704841_0147478726

Dorman kit - PN 90441
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-30658-90441.aspx

Napa kit PN 655-1294
Canadian kit has only 2 viton o-rings in Napa packaging
https://napaonline.com/Cata...5-1294&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0

You might simply call a few GM parts departments at local dealerships. I did this a few years a go and got the good o-ring for, iirc, about $.59

I have a used tan distributor o-ring here, it measures one inch inside diameter and 3.58mm in diameter. You only need one. Both of your links specify "Help carded" meanng they are the same thing (Dorman HELP cards) and can more than likely be found at your nearest auto parts dealer, even where you are now. Since you already have the right one coming from Rodney you might be better off to just buy the right size o-ring from behind the counter at the autoparts store or even a hardware store just to save oil on the way home.

You can probably do this where you are. You only really need a 15mm socket or wrench (one designed for this purpose is available as a help card or similar), a nail or something to pound out the pin that holds the gear on the shaft, and a hammer or something to pound with. Take a picture or two of the distributor and how it's connected to the coil, remove the cap (ok, I guess you need a screwdriver or something), push the cap aside (you shouldn't have to take the wires off, at least not many), unplug the connectors below the cap, loosen the distribustor bolt at the base of the distributor, and turn the clip the bolt uses to hold the distributor. Take another picture of the distributor to define where the rotor should be once you get the distributor all the way back in, then pull up on the distributor housing. As you do this the rotor will turn. When it stops turning, take another picture. This tells you where the rotor should be when you go to put it back in.

To get the gear off, just put the distributor housing in a vice or on a block of wood on the ground or floor, pound out the pin that goes through it, then just slide the gear off. Save the pin. Then work the old o-ring off and the new one on, put the gear back on, pound the pin back in, put the distributor in place with the rotor facing in the direction it was in your last picture, push down until the rotor faces the direction of the second picture, put the hold down clip over the base like it was and tighten the 15mm bolt part way. Plug the coil connector wires back in, put the cap back on and tighten the screws. At that point it will probably start adequatly. If so, tighten the 15mm bolt to hold the distributor from turning until you can set the timing. If it won't start or starts oddly, like with a very fast cranking or a very slow, short grunt of a crank, then loosen the 15mm bolt and turn the distributor a tiny bit, then try again.

By the way, it could be your distributor is loose. Have you tried tightening that bolt?

quote Originally posted by 85 SE VIN 9: ...a nail or something to pound out the pin that holds the gear on the shaft, and a hammer or something to pound with. To get the gear off, just put the distributor housing in a vice or on a block of wood on the ground or floor, pound out the pin that goes through it, then just slide the gear off. Save the pin. Then work the old o-ring off and the new one on, put the gear back on, pound the pin back in, put the distributor in place with the rotor facing in the direction it was in your last picture...

What???

This is absolutely not necessary. There is no need to pull the drive gear off to replace the O ring. The O ring will slide right over the gear.

YEA NOONE ELSE MENTIONED ANYTHING ABOUT REMOVING GEARS..OK IM I HAVE THE SBC GASKET AND THE DOORMAN O RING I WILL DO THIS TOMORROW AND TAKE PICS .I WILL REPOST WITH DETAILS..

AND I MENTIONED EARLIER THE RODNEY ORING WAS LOST BY USPS SO THATS WHY I BOUGHT THIS ONE...
THANKS FOR ALL THE REPLIES I WILL DO IT IN THE AM

Since you are pulling the distributor - take a look at the pick up coil on top of it.

If the pick up coil looks like it is falling apart, you should replace it.

You do have to remove the gear to replace the pick up coil

You don't have to remove it to replace the o-ring


This is for the V-6

Removing the distributor


Replacing the pick up coil




Replacing the distributor



Timing the engine after replacing the distributor into the block

Ok, lateformula, even better. I left out the part about putting electrical tape over the shaft to keep from getting any little nicks in the o-ring. The whole point of my excessively long post is this repair is not that difficult. I tried to describe every possible tool and precaution that might be needed. Once you do this you wonder what all the fuss was about. You really don't need to take pictures or buy the distributor bolt tool either.

ok so i have the dis. out and to my surprise it looks like someone has been here before the oring section is scored.. how bad is this...




i have the new oring and sbc gasket... should i try it and see what happens or am i looking at a new dis. to purchase ? need to drive back to pa in 2 days lol..

Clearly the sealing surface isn't what it is supposed to be. If you want your fix to work, to work first time, and to work long term you need to replace your distributor.

When junk yard shopping for a distributor make sure it doesn't have any lateral movement. Pick up a pick up coil and put it in the replacement distributor. It's worth it to know what you have is going to work dependably long term.

im in ny theres no junk yards with fieros over here AT ALL .. lol.. so autozone sells this one for $ 130.....

http://www.autozone.com/aut...entifier=765149_0_0_

http://napaonline.com/Catal...D%28P_RecType%3aA%29

any advice and which one i should be buying..... the o ring was only 3 bucks im wondering if i should put it together and see what happends anyway...

[This message has been edited by freedom0226 (edited 10-16-2011).]

A little bit of wire wheel on a bench grinder plus some clear coat will make a junk yard distributor body look nice

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 10-16-2011).]

what do you think of the links

http://www.autozone.com/aut...entifier=765149_0_0_

http://napaonline.com/Catal...D%28P_RecType%3aA%29

autozone i can have tomorrow morning but is that a good brand.

Both look like the same manufactures picture.

Cardone should be fine. I don't think there is a big advantage in the 'star' design.

Make sure!!! that if the pick up wires are like the one in the picture that you do something to make sure they CAN'T get pinched in the way of the cap. There is no way you can stop it when you are putting the cap on. I depinned one of the pins from the connector with a paperclip, and then by spinning both wires individuality, and then allowing them to twist from the spin, to keep them in a shorter and out of the way of the cap.



I think that picture of a distributor with the pick up coil wires like that is like posting a picture of someone with their head in a guillotine. It's trouble waiting to happen.

Either dist should be fine btw.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 10-16-2011).]

quote Originally posted by phonedawgz: Clearly the sealing surface isn't what it is supposed to be. If you want your fix to work, to work first time, and to work long term you need to replace your distributor.

I'll not only second that, but I'll third and fourth it too. A seal AND gasket won't stop that one from leaking.

Since you need it running right away, I'd go ahead and put in the new O-ring and gasket. It may leak, but not as bad as before, and that will give you time to find another distributor.

well i did put the new o ring on and according to everyone's advice i noted the direction of rotor everything went back in and ive been driving it since this after noon and still no leaks so this will def. hold up till it leaks again.

thanks in advance for all advice shared.

quote Originally posted by JazzMan: Since you need it running right away, I'd go ahead and put in the new O-ring and gasket. It may leak, but not as bad as before, and that will give you time to find another distributor.

Yeah, it seems like any way you can get the gap filled and still seal the distributor housing to the engine should work as long as whatever you use holds up. If the oring seat in the distributor is larger than the oring diameter see if you can make it tight with another oring that at least seals that gap. The old one you have doesn't look at all right. It no where near fills the gap and it doesn't look like it would do much to seal against the engine. If the oring diameter and the width of the seat are close enough the damage shouldn't matter much or at all.

Since you stopped your leak, it's really a non-issue, but I will add that the Cardone unit is a good distributor.

Did you use the SBC gasket as well as the o-ring?

If it starts leaking again, add the gasket if you didn't use it, or just spring for the Cardone unit.